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My Friend, the Captain; 



TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE, 



A Descriptive Story of a Tour of Europe, 



/ 

WRITTEN AND C0MPII,ED BY 

WILLIAM L TERHUNE 



ILLUSTRATED. 



NEW YORK: 

G. W. Dillingham Co., Publishers. 

MDCCCXCVIII. 

[A 11 rights reserved.^ 
L- 



THE UBRAfclf 
OF CONGRESS 

WASHINGTON 



-\ w 



-/..■ 



COPYRIGHT 

1898 

BY W. L. TERHUNE. 



, 




TWOCOF ;C£IVED. 



To My Dear Friend, 

CAPT. R, B, GROVER, 

who was my companion while touring Europe during 

the summer of J 897. I affectionately 

dedicate this book. 




H^$^^£,,5ve~-~», 




iVW ^\Zl^X X 4tv4^ Z«Jf^-*JL~. s 



PREFACE 



•* 



The pleasures of a European tour cannot be realized ex- 
cept by actual experience. It has been my good fortune 
to visit, at different times, the places made famous in his- 
tory and story, not only in England, Ireland and Scotland, 
but nearly all of Europe west of the Russian Empire. 
Since my last tour I have been asked so many questions 
about different places that, in an unguarded moment, I 
decided to tell the story in book form. 

This account is given in the order the tour was made. It 
has been my purpose to describe as minutely, yet as briefly 
as possible, the vast pancrama of attractions that passed 
before me during the four summer months of 1897. 

I do not pose as a historian, but repeat some interesting 
descriptions of places and things 'which have a record in 
the past and about which all lovers of history like to read. 
The descriptions presented here were gathered by me from 
many sources, and have been written and arranged for 
the information of the reader and tourist. 



To the reader who has visited Europe, this book will be 
interesting as a reminder of many places and scenes famil- 
iar to him or her, some of which have, no doubt, left lasting 
impressions. To the reader who contemplates a first trip, 
this will serve as a preparation, while to the reader who 
never has, and never expects to cross the broad Atlantic, 
this may serve to show, in a measure, what exists in the 
Old World. 

But, the Captain — my dear friend, the Captain ! He is 
not a mytn. He is the best, kindest-hearted and jolliest 
of living mortals. To him, and to him, alone, I owe the 
real cause for writing this book. He was my companion, 
and the life of the four months we spent abroad. Long 
live the Captain. 

W. Iy. T. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

Chapter I. — Preparing for the Trip, 9 

Chapter II. — How to Do London in Two Weeks, 20 

Chapter III. — Some Things Seen and Heard in London, . . 34 

Chapter IV. — Doing Quaint Old Holland, 47 

Chapter V. — Antwerp, Brussels and Cologne, 59 

Chapter VI. — A Day on the River Rhine, 71 

Chapter VII.— In Fatherland, 87 

Chapter VIII. — Nuremberg and Munich, 102 

Chapter IX. — Our First Week in Switzerland, 118 

Chapter X. — Adieu to the Land of the Swiss, 136 

Chapter XI. — How to Do Paris, 151 

Chapter XII. — Still Doing Paris, 163 

CHAPrER XIII. — Versailles and Fontainebleau, 176 

Chapter XIV. — Last Days in the Gay French Capital, . . . 191 

Chapter XV. — Cambridge and Oxford, 201 

Chapter XVI. — Windsor Castle and Eton College, .... 220 

Chapter XVII. — Stoke Poges and Hampton Court, .... 235 

Chapter XVIII. — The Home of Shakespeare, 250 

Chapter XIX. — Chester and Hawarden, 262 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



in which we made our 



trip 



W. L. Terhune 

My Friend, the Captain 

The Steamer " Majestic 

The Tower of London . 

Scene on High Holborn, London 

Trafalgar Square, London 

The Nightingale Tomb in Westminster Abbey, London 

The Marble Arch, Hyde Park, London 

The Thames Embankment, London 

Typical Scene in Holland .... 

The Little Palace in the Woods, The Hague 

On the Beach at Scheveningen, Holland 

Rokin Canal, Amsterdam .... 

Aehterburgwal — Old Part of Amsterdam 

Hotel de Ville, Antwerp, and Statue of Brabo 

Milk Venders, Antwerp .... 

Palace of the Count of Flanders, Brussels 

King's Palace, Brussels ..... 

Field of Waterloo, Near Brussels . 

Cathedral at Cologne 

Old Castle on the Rhine, Near Coblenz 

Rhincstein Castle, on the Rhine . 

Castle and Fortifications on the Rhine 

Old Castle on the Rhine, Near Bingen 

Mosaic Beds in the Palm Garden, Frankfort 

The Palm Garden, Frankfort 

The Conservatory, Palm Garden, Frankfort 

The Old Castle, Heidelberg . . . 

Students Fencing at Heidelberg . 

Heidelberg University ..... 

The Great Wine Cask, Heidelberg 

Maximilian Palace from the River Isra, Nuremberg 



PAGE 

Frontispiece 
Frontispiece 

14 
22 
26 
30 
36 
40 

44 
48 
50 
52 
54 
56 
58 
60 
62 
64 
66 
68 
72 
76 
80 
84 
88 
90 
92 

94 

96 

98 

100 

104 



UST OF H,I,USTRATlONS. 



Five Cornered Tower, Nuremberg 
Karlsbridge, with St. Sebolds Church, Nuremberg 
Hangman's Bridge, Nuremberg 
Ludwigstrasse, Munich . 
The Royal Palace, Munich 
Zurich from the Lake 
Lucerne and the Alps . 
The Lion in the Rock, Lucerne 
Rigi-Kulm Railway, Near Lucerne 
The Jungfrau from Interlaken 
The Snow-Clad Jungfrau 
Staubbach Falls at Lauterbrunnen 
Brunig Pass and Railway 
General View of Berne . 
The Bear Pit at Berne . 

Castle of Chillon, Dent-du-Midi in the Distance 
The Prison in Castle Chillon 
Chamounix, with a View of Mont Blanc 
The Captain and His Mule 
View of Geneva from the Lake 
Notre Dame, Paris 
Champs Elysees, Paris . 

Avenue de 1' Opera, Looking Toward the Opera House, Paris 
The Trocadero and Bridge, Paris . 
Garden of the Tuileries, Paris 
Tomb of Napoleon, Hotel des Invalides, Paris 
Interior of Grand Opera House, Paris 
The Pantheon, Paris 
Palace at Versailles, Near Paris 
The Great Fountain at Versailles . 
Palace at Fontainebleau, Near Paris 
Gallery in the Palace at Fontainebleau 
Bois de Boulogne, Paris 
Room in the Cluny Museum, Paris 
Clare College Bridge, Cambridge, England 
Bridge of Sighs, St. John's College, Cambridge, England 
King's Gateway, Entrance to Trinity College, Cambridge, 
England . 



208 



UST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Vll 



PAGE 

General View of Oxford, England 210 

King's College, Cambridge, England . . . . . .212 

New College, Cloister and Tower, Oxford, England . . . 214 

Entrance to Wadham College, Oxford, England . . . 218 

Windsor Castle, East Terrace 222 

Windsor Castle, Norman Gateway . . . . . .224 

Windsor Castle, North Terrace ., , . 228 

Windsor Castle, Round Tower - . 230 

Eton College, Eton, England 232 

Church and Churchyard, Stoke Poges, England .... 236 

West Front, Wolsey Palace, Hampton Court, England . . 238 

The Great Hall, Hampton Court, England 242 

Entrance to Pond Garden, Hampton Court, England . . . 246 

Anne Boleyn's Gateway, Hampton Court, England . . . 248 
House in Which Shakespeare Was Born, Stratford-on-Avon, 

England ........... 252 

Interior of Holy Trinity Church, Stratford-on-Avon, England . 254 
Room in Which Shakespeare Was Born, Stratford-on-Avon, 

England 258 

Anne Hathaway's Cottage, Shottery, Near Stratford-on-Avon, 

England 260 

Typical Street View, Chester, England 264 

Water Tower and Walls, Chester, England ..... 266 

Eaton Hall, Chester, England ....... 270 

Rt. Hon. William E. Gladstone 272 

Hawarden Castle, the Gladstone Residence 274 

"The Keep." Ruins of the Old Castle at Hawarden . . .276 



MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 



OR, 



Two Yankees in Europe. 



CHAPTER I. 
Preparing for the Trip. 



IT WAS on a beautiful summer night in August, 1896, that I was 
seated with a group of gentlemen on the broad piazza of the Deer 
Park Hotel, North Woodstock, N. H., which is situated at the 
opening of the Franconia Notch in one of the most beautiful 
spots of the White Mountain districts. Our conversation had been on 
Europe, and the members of the party who had been abroad, in which 
I found myself one of the number, had been entertaining each other 
with our impressions of the other side. I must admit that some of 
the experiences related by the members of the party, not including 
my own, were rather interesting to those who had never crossed the 
broad Atlantic, but to none more so than my friend, the Captain, who, 
after hearing an account of a visit to the Palace at Munich, jumped to 
his feet and remarked : 

"I'll wager the best box of cigars I can buy that there is not a 
member of this company who will guarantee to make a tour of Europe 
with me next summer. ' ' 

I immediately accepted the wager. 

The Captain was a well known shoe manufacturer. He had com- 
menced in life a poor man, but had built up a great business which 
brought him prosperity. I had known him for years, and a more 
jovial or better hearted man did not live in New England. The 
Captain was original, and would cause more fun to the square inch 
than anyone I ever knew ; therefore, when I accepted his offer, he 
turned to me and remarked : 



IO MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

' ' You have toured Europe before ? ' ' 

" I have." 

' ' You want to go again ? ' ' 

"I do." 

" You're willing to go next year and put in four months ? " 

" I am." 

"Well," concluded the Captain, "if you go I'll give you two 
boxes of cigars. You are authorized by me to make all the arrange- 
ments." 

That night I happened to be up later than usual, and from tne 
window of the smoking room where I was sitting I imagined I heard 
strange talk on the piazza ; so glancing through the curtains I found 
the Captain seated under a gaslight, and in his hands he had a little 
book which he was deeply interested in, and from which he was quot- 
ing, something like this : 

" Parle z — Parlez — Parlez vous — Parlez vous Francaise f '" 

I became interested and, walking out on the piazza, approached 
the Captain and asked him what he was doing. 

" I am studying up French," was the only reply he made, as he 
again glanced at his book. This was enough for me, and I left the 
Captain to enjoy the work he had entered on. 

So, by the Captain's order, I commenced preparations for our trip, 
and early the next March I engaged accommodations on that magnifi- 
cent steamship, the Majestic, sailing from New York on Wednesday, 
June 2. 

Little did I know what was in store for me in the weeks and months 
to come. I loved travel, and I was looking forward to the time 
when I would have the Captain as a companion, little dreaming that 
the Captain was to start on this trip with the intention of seeing and 
knowing the country, regardless of all consequences. 

Leaving New York per steamship Majestic, we sailed down the 
harbor on a beautiful June day, and when the shades of night fell 
over us we were far from sight of land in a calm, peaceful sea. The 
trip was made without "inconvenience " to our party, yet the Captain 
insists he never saw a worse specimen of humanity than he beheld in 
the writer on the Sunday morning after our departure ; but this I 
brand as false. The Captain was not responsible for what he saw that 
morning, and I was. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE). II 

In preparing for a European trip one must bear in mind that the 
weather on the other side is variable, consequently he must travel 
with both heavy and light clothing, including a suit for steamer wear 
that must be heavy, one that has seen service will answer the purpose. 
Passports are not obligatory, but it is advisable to be provided with 
one. It is useful as a means of identification, viewing public build- 
ings, etc. 

The arrangements for money while abroad can be easily adjusted. 
If one is traveling considerably a Letter of Credit for anything 
over $500 is preferable, and for smaller sums American Express 
money orders answer the same purpose. For a residence of some 
weeks in a city, your letter of credit will answer the purpose. A 
small amount of English, French and German currency should be 
carried for use on the respective steamers and on landing in the 
countries. 

A steamer trunk to take in your stateroom is a necessity, and must 
not be over fourteen or fifteen inches deep. This must be marked 
with the number of your room or it will go in the hold. After the 
steamer leaves the Jock you must apply to the second steward in the 
dining room, who will allot you your seat at the table. Every steamer 
has an experienced surgeon on board, and in case you use his services 
a reasonable fee is expected. The other fees required are as follows : 
Bedroom and table steward, ten shillings or $2.50. " Boots," two and 
six or sixty cents, and the deck steward about three shillings, seventy- 
five cents, while a small fee of two shillings, fifty cents, is usually 
given the smoke room and the toilet room steward. There is always 
a good barber, who will give you a shave for a shilling, twenty-five 
cents. 

Our departure from New York on our trip outward was made at 12 
o'clock, and at 1.30 lunch was served. When the signal was given 
the Captain approached me and remarked that he was rather anxious 
to go to the dining room. Supposing he was in good condition for a 
hearty meal, I accompanied him and sat down beside him. Taking 
up the bill of fare, the Captain looked at it for a moment and threw 
it down in disgust. 

1 ' What is the matter, Captain ? " I asked. 

" Why," was his reply, " I thought we were going to have a table 
dee hotey dinner." 

" We have a table d'hote at 6.30 tonight," was my reply. 



12 MY FRIKND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

■' Well," returned the Captain, " that may suit you and the rest of 
these foreigners, but so far as I am concerned, when it comes night- 
time I want my tea." 

Nearly all the modern steamers are fitted with a library, containing 
all that is choice in biography, novel or fiction. The books are in 
charge of a steward, who delivers them to the passengers, taking a 
receipt therefor, to be returned before the end of the voyage. 

The points of the compass may be determined by the aid of an 
ordinary watch. It is simply necessary to bring the watch in a posi- 
tion so that the hour hand is directed toward the sun. The south 
then lies exactly midway between whatever hour it may happen to be 
and the numeral XII. on the dial. L,et us suppose, for instance, that 
it is 4 o'clock, and that the time-piece is held in the position indi- 
cated. The direction of the numeral II. will then be the exact south. 
If it is 8 o'clock the numeral X. will indicate the exact southerly 
point. 

In the matter of railroad traveling there are, in most countries, 
three classes of carriages. The first-class is usually furnished with 
plush ; second-class carriages are furnished almost as well. Second- 
class in Germany is as comfortable as first-class in England, France 
and Italy ; and this is so well understood, that mixed tickets are 
sold for long journeys entitling the holder to first-class in other 
countries and second-class in Germany. In Bngland third-class 
coaches are comfortable. This class is frequented by the general 
public for short journeys. Nearly every train has compartments* 
exclusively for ladies. In England, France and Italy, smoking is 
forbidden, except in compartments specially designated for that pur- 
pose. 

The allowance of baggage or luggage differs. In Bngland it is one 
hundred pounds ; in most continental countries it averages fifty 
pounds ; in Bavaria, Belgium, Italy, and in most parts of Switzerland 
there is no allowance. The charge for excessive luggage is high ; 
all hand baggage is free. The system of checking baggage is un- 
known abroad. 

The most desirable seasons for visiting the various resorts of 
Europe are well known to the old traveler, but the methods for 
reaching them are continually improving. The new Mediterranean 
service, which has become so popular for winter travel, has made a 
direct communication between the United States and Spain, Italy 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 13 

and Egypt. These trips make a pleasant vacation of six weeks 
during the winter season and include all points of interest in the 
Mediterranean countries. The North Cape and Land of the Midnight 
Sun has also been brought in direct communication with the United 
States by special excursion steamers sailing in June and July, and 
touching all ports of interest in Norway and Sweden. Switzerland, 
reached via France or Germany, is visited principally during June, 
July, August and September. The London season is at its height in 
May and June, and Scotland is sought for its shooting in the fall of 
the year. Paris has no stated season for travelers, all months being 
popular at this capital. The latter points are reached directly by 
steamers ; London via Liverpool and Southampton ; Scotland via 
Glasgow and Edinburgh ; and Paris via Havre, Coulogne sur-Mer 
and Antwerp. 

It is the custom in England and among the English servants and 
others to speak of their superior or employer as the " Guv' nor," the 
same as we speak of such as the " Boss." The second day out from 
New York, the Captain and I were enjoying a cigar in the smoking 
room, after our dinner, when the steward approached us and 
addressing the Captain, remarked : 

" Guv'nor, will you have some coffee? " 

The Captain dropped his cigar on the floor and stared at the man 
for an instant, and after the steward had supplied him with his 
coffee and passed on, the Captain nudged me and in great glee 
remarked : 

' ' Did you hear that ? ' ' 

" Hear what? " I remarked. 

" Why, that fellow takes me for the Governor of Massachusetts," 
and then the Captain leaned back in his easy chair and smoked three 
cigars before retiring to his state-room. 

The following is a table showing the value of English money in 
American coin : 

GOUD. SILVER. 

One sovereign, .... $4.86 Crown, 5s., $1.20 

One-half sovereign, . . 2.43 One-half crown, 2s. 6d., . .60 

One florin, 2s., 48 

bank NOTES. °. ne shilling, 24 

Six pence 12 

£$ Bank of England, . . 24.30 Four pence, .08 

£1 Irish and Scotch, . . 4.86 Three pence, 06 






u-# 



a 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 



Here is a table of French money : 

5 centimes, i sou, equal to $ .01 

50 centimes, 10 sous — one-half franc, ... .10 

100 centimes, 20 sous — one franc, .... .20 

5 franc piece, gold or silver, 1.00 

10 franc piece, gold or silver, 2.00 

20 franc piece, gold or silver, 4.00 

German money is Americanized as follows : 

5 pfennigs, equal to $ .01 

.02 

•05 
.12 

•23 

.69 

2-37 

4-74 



'5 



10 pfennigs, 

20 pfennigs, 

50 pfennigs or one-half mark, 

1 mark, 

3 marks or 1 thaler, . . . 

10 marks, 

20 marks, 



Cab fares in Europe are low. The following are the rates charged 
in London : 

By Distance — Hansom or "four wheeler," the same. First two 
miles, is.; for every additional mile, 6d. For each fifteen minutes' 
waiting en route, 6d. 

By Time — Hansom (two- wheeler) 2s., 6d. per hour. Cab (four- 
wheeler), 2S. per hour. 

Extra — Each article of baggage outside, 2d. additional. More 
than two persons, 6d. each additional. 

Paris rates are as follows : 

VoiTURES DE PEACE — Hired in the street. 

PER Course — Any distance inside the gates. 
Two-seated voiture, per course, . . . . 1 franc, 50 centimes, $.30 
Four-seated voiture, per course, .... 2 francs, .40 

PER HOUR. 

Two-seated voiture, by the hour, ... 2 francs, #.40 

Four-seated voiture, by the hour, ... 2 francs, 50 centimes, .50 

We are supposed to speak the same language as our English 
cousins. This to a great extent is true, but it is also true that those 
proud and patriotic citizens who believe that they speak ' ' United 
States" have some amount of reason for their belief. It is certainly 
a fact that many important differences now exist between the 



i6 



MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 



English spoken in America and the English spoken in the United 
Kingdom. These differences in phraseology are oftentimes the cause 
of much trouble and annoyance to American travelers, because many 
terms which are peculiarly American are unknown to the average 
Englishman. A common experience, by way of illustration, is that 
of the American who wanders about the streets of London, inquiring 
the way to the nearest ''railroad depot," and usually fails to find the 
object of his search. What he wants, of course, is the "railway 
station. " It is also an everyday experience for American ladies to 
enter English shops and ask for articles of merchandise which, to 
their surprise, they find are things unheard of. The trouble is that 
they employ the American instead of the English descriptive titles 
and these are not generally known. These might be illustrated 
extensively, but enough has been said to show that a vast amount of 
inconvenience may be avoided by the American traveler who has 
placed at his disposal a list of these puzzling differences in language, 
in order that he may know how to speak English so as to be under- 
stood by English people of every class. It is with this object in 
view that the following list of varying familiar phrases has been 
compiled : 



AMERICAN. 

The railroad. 
The station agent. 
The telegraph operator. 

The sleeper. 

The depot. 

The smoking car. 

The cars or train. 

The ticket office. 

The section of a car. 

Changing cars. 

The conductor. 

The locomotive engineer. 

The track. 

The switch. 

The switchman. 

The brakeman. 

The elevated railroad. 

Checking baggage. 

The baggage. 



ENGlylSH. 

The railway. 

The station master. 

The telegraph clerk, 

(pronounced " dark"). 
The Pullman. 
The railway station. 
The smoking carriage. 
The carriages or train. 
The booking office. 
The compartment of a carriage. 
Changing carriages. 
The guard. 
The engine driver. 
The line. 
The points. 
The pointsman. 
The porter. 
The overhead railway. 
Registering luggage. 
The luggage. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 1 7 

The baggage room. The luggage booking-office. 

The trunk. (Sometimes) the box. 

The valise, satchel or " grip." The bag or portmanteau. 

Cloak-room or parcel office. Left-luggage office or cloak-room. 

The hack. The cab. 

The street car. The tram or tramway. 

A buggy or light carriage. A trap. 

Such well-known American dishes as pork and beans, fishballs, 
American pies, cookies, crullers, buckwheat cakes, and sweet corn 
can be obtained at only a few restaurants in London. In nearly all 
restaurants these Yankee dishes are almost unknown. It should also 
be added that barley, wheat, etc., in England, are often referred to as 
"corn," while corn, in the American sense, is always spoken of as 
' 'Indian corn, " or ' 'maize, ' ' and can be obtained only in the dried state. 

In Europe, "dessert" applies to only the fruit portion of the 
menu. Pudding and other dishes of the kind are referred to as 
"sweets." The word "pastry" refers to all kinds of cakes, puffs, 
tarts, etc. A visit to Low's Exchange on Northumberland avenue 
will be of benefit to all American tourists. 

The American pie is unknown in Europe, but the Captain did not 
know this. The day before our arrival at Liverpool, after finishing 
his dinner, the Captain called his dining-room steward and addressing 
him as " waiter," ordered a piece of pie. The steward looked at him 
for a moment and replied : 

" Pie, pie, what kind of pie, sir ? " 

The Captain's reply was that "Apple would do," but he was 
rather taken back when the steward informed him that there was 
only ham or meat pie. Consequently I had to explain to him the 
situation of affairs, and after I had explained it to him the Captain 
turned to me and remarked : 

" No pies in Europe ! What a blasted country it must be." 

Although the Captain got the English phrase "blasted " he did 
not get his American pie. 

AMERICAN. ENGLISH. 

A list of charges at restaurants 

or hotels. A tariff. 

Tenderloin steak. Fillet steak. 

Round steak. Buttock steak. 

First cut of the roast. Wing rib. 

A chicken. A fowl. 



MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN 



Squash. 
Ivirna beans. 
Pulverized sugar. 
String beans. 



Vegetable marrow. 
Broad beans. 
Icing sugar. 
French beans. 



ON THE STREET. 



IN THE STREET. 



The sidewalk. 
A block. 



The pavement. 
A turning. 



The word " block " is not used in England to designate distance. 
An American would say, "About four blocks from here." An 
Englishman would say, "The fourth turning from here," when direct- 
ing a person. 



AMERICAN. 

Shoes (ladies' or gentlemen's} 

Men's high boots. 

Half or low shoes. 

Gaiters. 

Rubbers. 

A Prince Albert. 

A cut-away. 

A vest. 

Iveggins. 

A Derby hat. 



ENGLISH. 

Boots. 

Top boots. 

Shoes. 

Elastic-side boots. 

Goloshes. 

A frock coat. 

A morning coat. 

A waistcoat. 

Gaiters. 

A felt hat or ' ' bowler. '■ 



Names of stores and merchandise 



AMERICAN. 

Dress waist. 

A store. 

A notion store. 

Notions. 

A drug store. 

A candy store. 

Candy or bon-bons. 

A clerk or salesman. 

A saleslady. 

A floor walker. 

The dry goods store. 

A spool of thread. 

India muslin. 

Muslin. 

Calico. 

A veil. 

Swiss. 



ENGEISH. 



Body or bodice. 

A shop. 

A haberdasher's. 

Haberdashery. 

A chemist's. 

A confectioner's or sweet shop. 

Sweets. 

A shopman. 

A shop girl. 

A shop walker. 

The linen draper's shop. 

A reel of cotton. 

Book muslin. 

Calico or long cloth. 

Print. 

A veil or fall. 

Muslin. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 1 9 

The foregoing may be rather uninteresting to most of the readers 
of this book, but there may be some points of interest for those who 
are contemplating a first trip to Europe. 

Here is a little incident I almost forgot to mention. Immediately 
upon arrival in Liverpool I noticed the Captain was very anxious to 
be one of the first to go down the gang plank. I followed closely 
after, and on reaching the landing stage found the Captain busily 
writing a telegram at the telegraph office. Glancing over his 
shoulders, I was surprised to read the following : 

Liverpool, June 9, 1897. 
Prince of Wai.ES, Marlborough House, London: 
Just arrived. Will stop at the Langham. 

(Signed) The Captain. 

Hardly knowing whether I was in Liverpool or New York, I 
asked the Captain what his intention was in writing such a telegram. 

''Why," was his reply, "lam going to send it to the Prince of 
Wales." 

" For what reason ? " I asked. 

"To let him know we have arrived, " was his reply. " If there is 
anything going on in London we want to be in it, and if there is any 
man that can help us, it is the Prince." 

The last I saw of the Captain he was paying 9d. for the telegram 
and I was contemplating whether to go back to the United States or 
continue my trip. 



20 MY FRIEND, THE) CAPTAIN ; 



TT FEW d; 

dU from o 

(§/ 1 how I 



CHAPTER II. 
How To Do London in Two Weeks. 

FEW days after my arrival in London I received a letter 

from one of my friends in Boston, in which he asked me 

got along with the Captain, and if I was fully 

satisfied with him as a traveling companion. It brought to 

my mind an old story which I heard years ago, of a German whose 

wife had died. Shortly after the last sad rites, Hans met a friend on 

the street, who condoled with him and asked if his wife was resigned. 

" Vot's dat ? " said Hans. 

' ' Was your wife resigned ? ' ' 

" Resigned, resigned, mine Gott, she had to pe ! " 

So with myself, I had no choice. I had to be. 

Take my advice and go to Europe, if you have to go over in the 
steerage. Why ? Because you will return to your homes better and 
more patriotic citizens. Better, because you will realize that you live 
in the greatest country upon which the sun shines. More patriotic, 
because you will get an additional strain in that direction here. 
Englishmen are all patriotic. I am glad to see it, and yet I met many 
who were almost as loud in their praise of America as a native would 
have been. 

It is quite a feat to do London and do it thoroughly in a short 
space of time, therefore it is my purpose to tell you how much of 
London one might see in a two weeks' stay there. 

First, on arriving in London, there are three things to remember. 
The average cost for three meals and bedroom at a first-class hotel is 
$4 to $5 per day ; hotel accommodations can be secured as low 
as $2.50 to $3 per day, but they are not generally satisfactory to one 
who is particular and used to good living. Pensions or boarding 
houses are to be found in all sections. Good accommodations can be 
secured from $7.50 to $10 per week, including room, breakfast and 
dinner. Restaurants abound wherever you go. In fact, there are 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 21 

more restaurants, cigar, hair and jewelry stores than any other lines. 
A first-class restaurant is as expensive as the same class in New York 
Boston, or any other of our large cities. For instance, a cup of tea 
or coffee costs from twelve to twenty-five cents, a dozen raw oysters 
from fifty cents to $i, and every other item in like proportion. 

The shops or stores of London, Paris, or any other of the conti- 
nental cities will not compare for elegance and fine window displays 
with those of the large American cities. A cab can be hired to carry 
one or two persons any reasonable distance (two miles is the limit) for 
twenty-five cents for the two. Buses or stages are the most popular for 
city transit. One advantage they possess is the seating capacity on 
top, where a fine view can be had during the trip. Prices vary from 
two cents upward per ride. To a person going a short distance this is 
an advantage, but for a three, four or five-mile ride they are more 
expensive then our electric cars. A good seat at the theater costs 
$2.50. An ordinary telegram costs twelve cents. 

The day after we arrived in London we took a ride down town, got 
off at the Bank of England, and were strolling along, when the Cap- 
tain nudged me as we came to a street corner. ' ' Step around here ' ' 
was all he said. Not knowing what was coming I obeyed, and as 
soon as the street was clear, the captain looked at me, and asking me 
to "join in the chorus," started off with the "Star Spangled Ban- 
ner." After considerable effort I got him to move on. 

Now let me outline a two weeks' stay in London, supposing* one 
does not care to do it with a rush, but see the principal sights and at 
the same time enjoy a restful period between. 

First Day — We will suppose you are at the West End. Take a 
bus at Oxford circus, secure a seat on top and go down Regent street 
passing many of the best stores, to Piccadilly circus (a circus is a 
square), thence to Trafalgar square. Here in the center is the monu- 
ment erected to Nelson, on the left is the National Art Gallery and St. 
Martin's Church ; to the right is Whitehall street, leading to the 
Horse Guards, Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament, also 
Northumberland avenue leading to Victoria embankment, and con- 
taining the three great hotels— the Metropole, Victoria and Grand. 
From here we pass down the Strand. On the left below the square is 
the Charing Cross station, and further down the division line 
between old London and the new. On the left, as you come to 



OR, TWO YANKKES IN EUROPE). 



23 



Chancery lane, is the Law Courts, or Court House, and then the 
Strand is continued as Fleet street, the " newspaper row " of London. 
From Fleet street you pass to Ludgate circus, off which is Blackfriar's 
bridge ; thence through Ludgate Hill, passing St. Paul's, through 
Cannon street to Queen street and Poultry, where stands the Mansion 
House, the home of the Lord Mayor, and opposite the Bank of Eng- 
land and the Royal Exchange. The tour can be continued through 
Whitechapel, the poor district of London, and the scene of " Jack the 
Ripper's" outrages. Returning, you pass through Cheapside, on 
which is located Bow Church, from whence ring Bow-bells. It is said 
that all persons who are born within the sound of Bow-bells are Cock- 
neys, or true Londoners, 

Off Cheapside is the Guild Hall, and as you pass out of this street 
you go through Newgate, passing the general post office and Newgate 
Prison, with Old Bailey on the left. This was once the principal 
prison of London, and in its day such famous men as William Penn, 
Daniel Defoe and Jack Sheppard were confined within its walls. 
Criminals condemned to death are still hanged here. Newgate was 
built in 1780. At 68 Old Bailey was the former home of Jonathan 
Wild. Passing from Newgate you go through Holborn Viaduct, 
where is located Dr. Parker's church, and then pass into New Oxford 
and Oxford street, through a busy shipping center, to your place of 
departure. Such a trip will consume one morning, and the afternoon 
can be spent in one of the many parks. 

At the hotel where we stopped in the early part of June were some 
of the finest strawberries I ever saw. They were not served as a des- 
sert the first day, so when we were finishing our lunch the second day 
the captain called the waiter and told him to bring on some straw- 
berries. The servant disappeared and soon returned with a small dish 
with possibly half a dozen berries on k. The captain gazed at it care- 
fully, looked at the waiter and remarked that "the samples are all 
right ; bring on the dish. " The waiter departed, and aftsr a consulta- 
tion with the head waiter, the dish was placed before us, and we 
enjoyed the berries. When the captain received his bill that week 
there appeared this item : 

" Dessert, ^1." 

" What's this ? " asked the Captain of the clerk. 

' ' Strawberries, sir ? " was the answer. 



24 MY FRIEND, The captain; 

Five dollars was rather a high price for three pints of strawberries 
but the Captain did not know that we were ahead of the season in 
London, and these came from the south of France. 

Second Day — Take a bus and go down to Whitehall street, visit 
the Horse Guards and the home of the commander-in-chief of the 
army, built in 1753. Two mounted Life Guards are posted as senti- 
nels in front, each day from 10 A. m. to 4 P. M., and the operation of 
relieving the guard, which takes place hourly, is interesting. A 
parade takes place on the grounds each afternoon about 4 o'clock. 
From here pass on to the Houses of Parliament ( open free on Satur- 
days, 10 to 4), which cover an area of 8 acres, and contain 11 courts, 
100 staircases, and 1100 apartments. The cost was $15, 000,000, and 
the building was erected in 1840. The clock tower is 318 feet high. 
The large clock has four dials, each 23 feet in diameter, and it takes 
five hours to wind up the striking parts. 

On entering, you pass through the Norman arch to the Queen's 
robing room, thence through the royal galleries, the Prince's chamber, 
to the House of Peers. From here you go through the Peers' Lobby 
and a corridor to the Central Hall, where you again pass through a 
corridor to the Commons' Lobby, and thence to the House of Com- 
mons, returning to the Central Hall, and out by the way of St. 
Stephen's Hall and Westminster Hall. From the latter you enter the 
crypt or chapel. A detailed description of this building, with its 
pictures and artistic constructions would easily fill half a book the 
size of this. 

From the Houses of Parliament pass across the street and you are 
at Westminster Abbey. The history of this church dates back to 616, 
but the regular establishment of the Abbey was due to Edward the 
Confessor, who built a church almost as large as the present one in 
1049. The present building was entirely rebuilt by Henry III. and 
his son, Edward I., in the latter half of the thirteenth century. I 
wish that I might have time and space to describe this interesting 
place, but even then I could not do it justice. One must certainly 
visit it to realize its magnificence. Here are buried Edward the Con- 
fessor, Queen Eleanor (his first wife), Henry III., Edward III., 
Richard II., Edward I., Henry VII., George II., Queen Elizabeth, 
Edward V., Charles II., William III., Queen Mary and Queen Anne, 
kings and queens galore, besides their families, men and women noted 
in the past history of England, and royalty in all its glory; 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 25 

Among the most striking monuments is one in the chapels of St. 
John the Evangelist, St. Michael and St. Andrew, formerly three 
separate chapels, but now combined. Here is a marble group by 
Roubillac in memory of Lady Nightingale, erected by her husband 
in 1731, and at his death, 1752, he was buried here. The representa- 
tion is that of Lady Nightingale, resting on her husband's arm, and 
in the last hours of her life. Death appears from the tomb, and is 
launching his dart at the dying lady, while her husband tries to ward 
off the attack. 

Life is a jest, and all things show it, 
I thought so once, and now I know it. 

— Gay. 

Third Day — An interesting day may be spent by going to either 
Westminster Pier or Charing Cross Pier at the foot of Northumber- 
land avenue, and take a boat down the Thames to London bridge ; 
fare two cents. You pass under all the celebrated bridges that cross 
the liver, and have a fine view of the Victoria Embankment, Hotel 
Cecil and other prominent buildings. Leaving the boat at London 
bridge you pass under a series of arches to Billingsgate, the great fish 
center of London, and well worth a visit. 

Just beyond is the Tower of London, the ancient fortress and, 
historically, the most interesting spot in England. This building 
originated with William the Conqueror, in 1078, and was erected for 
a royal palace. Here are to be seen the quaintly attired warders, or 
beef-eaters, styled "Yeomen of the Guard.' 1 It may be interesting to 
know that Prince James of Scotland was imprisoned here in 1405, and 
it was under the staircase, passing through the wall of the White 
Tower that the bones of the two young princes, murdered by their 
uncle, the Duke of Gloucester, afterward Richard III., were found. 
On the first floor are the apartments in which Sir Walter Raleigh was 
confined wheii he wrote his "History of the World." Lady Jane 
Grey was confined here, and Henry VI. was murdered in Record 
Tow r er. Other notables were also confined here, among them being 
William Wallace, the Scottish chief, and the Duke of Orleans, father 
of Louis XII,, of France. In the courtyard is the spot where many 
notables were executed, such as Queen Anne Boleyn, Queen Catherine 
Howard, Lady Jane Grey and others. The tower is a complete 
museum of antiques, armor, etc., of every kind and description. 
Here is also to be seen the crown jewels valued at 175,000,000. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 27 

From our arrival in London to the present time the Captain had 
not been fully pleased with his menu. " If I only had a good plate 
of Boston baked beans and a piece of apple pie, I would be fixed," 
was his exclamation day in and day out 

Fourth Day — Take a bus and go to St. Paul's, the third largest 
church in the world, its only rivals being the cathedrals at Rome and 
Milan. The present church was commenced in 1675, first opened for 
service in 1697, and completed in 1710. It may be interesting to 
know that this great structure was designed by one man, Sir 
Christopher Wren, and built by one master mason, Thomas Strong. 
The cost of the edifice was about $20, 000,000, and was defrayed 
almost wholly by a tax on coal. The architect received a salary of 
only $5000 per year. 

The church somewhat resembles St. Peter's at Rome. It is so 
hemmed in with narrow streets and large buildings that its proportions 
cannot be realized. It is 500 feet long and 118 feet wide. The inner 
dome is 225 feet, and the outer 364 feet from the pavement to the 
cross. The diameter of the dome is about 112 feet. Here are to be 
found monuments erected to the illustrious dead of England. To 
visit London and miss St. Paul's would be like going to a theatre and 
not seeing the play. 

From St. Paul's pass along the left and you are shortly in front of 
the Mansion House, the official residence of the Lord Mayor of 
London during the term of his office. This was erected in 1739. Not 
open to the public. Opposite the Mansion House is the Bank of 
England, the most powerful financial institution in the world, known 
as ' ' The Old Lady of Thread-Needle street, " as it is located on that 
thoroughfare. The bank was founded in 1691 by William Paterson, a 
Scotchman, and is the first joint stock bank established in England, 
and continued as such until 1834. It is still the only bank in 
England having the power to issue paper money. Its original capital 
was 130,000,000, which has increased to nearly $500,000,000. It 
employs 900 persons, with an annual payroll of over $5,000,000. 
England pays the bank $5,000,000 per year for managing its national 
debt, now amounting to $15,500,000,000. It is said that the average 
amount of money negotiated in the bank per day amounts to 
$50,000,000. The bank contains a general printing office where it 
does all its work, including the printing of its bills, some 15,000 



28 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

daily. A bill is never issued a second time ; no matter if only a day 
old the moment they are returned to the bank or any of its branches 
they are condemned. 

Passing from the bank to the end of King street is Guild Hall, or 
the council room of old London. This building is well worth inspec- 
tion. Connected with it is an excellent art gallery and a museum of 
relics of old London. 

Fifth Day — A most instructive and certainly a pleasant half day 
can be profitably passed at the National Gallery, Trafalgar square, 
the leading art gallery of England, which was erected in 1832 at a 
cost of $2,500,000. It is 460 feet long, and contains twenty -two 
rooms replete with works of art by not only the most famous old 
masters, but men and women noted in later days. 

Sixth Day— On Great Russell street, off Oxford street, is located 
the British Museum. Weeks could be spent in examining the many 
curiosities contained therein. It is estimated that 750,000 people 
visit this building annually. Here is to be found the largest library 
in the world, containing 80,000 volumes, with over 1,000,000 volumes 
in reserve. This, however, is only a small part of the great treat in 
store for the sight-seer. Manuscripts and autograph letters of kings 
and queens long since dead, and curious specimens of Nature's and 
man's handiwork from all parts of the globe. If possible, try and 
arrange to put in a full day here. 

The manager of the hotel where we were located in London was 
giving us a glowing account of the great naval review in honor of 
the Queen's Diamond Jubilee, and asked the Captain if he was present 
to witness it. 

"No," was his reply; "I can go to New York any day and 
witness as fine a show from the top of any of our tall buildings."" 

Seventh Day — Soane's Museum, founded and owned by Sir 
John Soane, the architect of the Bank of England, is located at 13 
Lincoln's Inn Fields, just off Chancery lane or Holburn. It is an 
interesting place to visit. Here is to be found Hogarth's celebrated 
series of eight pictures illustrating " The Rake's Progress," originally 
purchased for about $14,000 and now considered priceless. Also by 
the same artist four pictures illustrating an English election in early 
days. In addition to the above there is a large collection of drawings 
by Sir John, as well as numerous curiosities and bric-a-brac collected 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 29 

by him. This place can be easily visited during the morning, and 
after lunch, make arrangements to spend the afternoon at Hyde Park, 
arriving there by 3:30 p. m., and view the magnificent processipn of 
carriages that appear about 4 p. m., a sight well worth seeing and 
only equaled by the Champs Elysees, Paris, during the Grand Prix in 
June. If you prefer to take a carriage and start out an hour earlier, 
you will find in proximity to Hyde Park Buckingham Palace, the 
Queen's residence when in town, Marlborough House, the residence 
of the Prince of Wales, St. James' Palace, former residence of the 
Queen, Kensington Palace, the birthplace of the Queen, York 
House, etc. 

The main entrance to Hyde Park is through the marble arch, 
originally erected by George IV. at the entrance to Buckingham 
Palace, at a cost of $400,000. In 1850 it was removed from the 
Palace, and a year later erected as above. In the afternoon's drive 
are to be seen the finest turnouts in London, elegant equipages, high 
bred horses and handsome trappings, with drivers and footmen in 
showy costume. If perchance you take this in and happen to see a 
turnout with the coachman and footman in red livery, it is a part of 
the Royalty, for they alone are allowed to dress their servants in this 
color. 

We were returning from the lower part of London one day, 
seated on top of a bus, and both of us enjoying our cigars. The 
Captain occasionally spat over the side of the bus. 

" Don't let them catch you doing that, Captain," I said. 

" Why ? " he remarked. 

" Because you will be fined two pounds." 

" Fined and be hanged ! What do I care? " answered the Captain. 
"I've got money to burn, and just as lief burn it here as any- 
where. ' ' 

Eighth Day— Go out to Regent Park and visit the Zoological and 
the Botanical Gardens, two of the most interesting places for a day 
out in the sunshine in London. One can profitably spend a whole 
day in these delightful spots. 

Ninth Day — When I was last in London I neglected to visit the 
Crystal Palace. Everybody I met upon my return said, " Oh ! " and 
" Why did you miss it? " etc. This time I went and it was a fete 
day, too. I got back as quickly as I could, and a more disgusted 




00 

* 

GO 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 3 1 

party than ours I never met. Take my advice and keep away from 
the Crystal Palace. It is a dirty, bad-smelling, overgrown barn. If 
it was located in New York or Boston it would be condemned by the 
authorities. The show of goods is a poor one and nothing to attract. 
This much I will say, the building is an imposing one from the 
exterior and the grounds about it are finely laid out. The building 
was constructed in 1854 and is 1608 feet long. It was built in 
eighteen weeks, employing from 4000 to 7000 hands per day in its 
construction. It is built of glass and iron. But you don't want to 
waste your time going out there, for it will spoil a whole day of your 
London visit. 

In place of the Crystal Palace, let me suggest you pass a day at 
Earls Court, more especially if there is an exhibition there. This 
delightful place can be reached by bus or underground railway or by 
boat on the Thames. It is beautifully laid out and a most charming 
place for a day's outing. 

Tenth Day — The Kew Gardens are at Kew, a pleasant ride by 
boat on the Thames. Let me suggest that you start early for Kew 
and take a view of this beautiful park, then take the tram cars 
and stage for Hampton Court, where you are due about noon. 
Here one finds the old palace built by Cardinal Wolsey, afterwards 
the home of Henry VIII., and later occupied by Cromwell, the 
Stuarts, William III., and the first two monarchs of the house of 
Hanover. Since the days of George II. Hampton Court has ceased to 
be a royal residence. In this old palace is to be found among the . 
numerous interesting rooms the king's first presence chamber, the 
king's drawing room, bedroom of King William III., which contains 
the bed of Queen Charlotte. There is a clock in this room that when 
wound up will go for a year, yet, while in good order, is no longer 
wound. The queen's bedroom contains Queen Anne's bed. Here 
are also the rooms of the then Prince of Whales, besides a large num- 
ber of an interesting nature, seventeen in all, but I cannot tell all 
about it here ; further on I will give you more details and show some 
illustrations. Leaving Hampton Court, take the boat for London, 
and if you do not say the ride down is a most charming one, I will 
agree I am no authority in this direction. To describe a three hours' 
sail down the Thames is beyond my power. The boats are flat, side 
wheel, and will carry, say 100 or about that. During the summer, a 



3 2 MY friend, The captain; 

"band," consisting of a melodeon, a cornet and a flute, " discourse 
sweet music ' ' and are paid by a collection. 

A fine orchestra discoursed sweet music in the corridor of our 
hotel at London from 6 to 9 p. m. Twice a week it would close the 
selection with "God Save the Queen," when those present would 
rise. The first time this occurred after our arrival, the Captain com- 
menced to sing " My Country, 'tis of Thee." I nudged him to keep 
quiet. "Let me alone," was his response. "They're playing the 
tune and I am going to sing it." 

Eleventh Day — Let me suggest that a visit be made to the Victoria 
Embankment. This was built from 1864 to 1870 at a cost of $75,000,- 
000, the amount being raised by taxes levied on coal and wines. The 
roadway is about 100 feet wide, and extends from Blackfriars to 
Westminster bridge. While here a visit can be made to the elegant 
new Hotel Cecil, which faces on the embankment, and is a marvel in 
hoteldom. 

The balance of the day can be employed in a trip to Kensington 
Gardens, a beautiful spot adjoining Hyde Park, and here is located 
the Albert Memorial, erected by the queen in memory of her hus- 
band, the Prince Consort. Directly opposite is the Royal Albert 
Hall, built in amphitheater shape, 810 feet in circumference, with a 
seating capacity of 8000. Fine concerts are given here every Sunday 
afternoon at 3.30, with seats at twelve cents and twenty-five cents each. 
The poorest seat in the house commands a full view of the stage. 

Twelfth Day — A visit to the South Kensington Museum will surely 
repay the tourist. Here is to be found a fine collection of exhibits in 
a gallery of art. Also the Indian Museum close by filled with an 
exhibit of barbaric curiosities and historic relics, and the Natural 
History Museum close by, which, as its name implies, is made up of 
a collection of zoology, geology, mineralogy and botany. All well 
worth a visit. 

This completes the twelve working days in London. One Sunday 
let me suggest attending services at Westminster, and the other at 
Dr. Parker's City Temple, Holborn Viaduct. If you can only visit 
one of the above take in Dr. Parker's, by all means. Dr. Parker is 
an Englishman by birth, but an intense lover of America and Ameri- 
cans. It may be remembered that after the death of Henry Ward 
Beecher he was called as pastor of his church, but did not feel as 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 33 

thongh he could leave his London charge. Every Sunday morning 
after his prayer for the Queen, he prays for the President of the 
United States and his people. Services of one hour's duration, from 
12 to i, are held every Thursday noon. I attended one of these. It 
was the second day after the Queen's Diamond Jubilee, and Dr. 
Parker announced that he would speak on his impressions of that 
occasion. The great house was filled ; such a dramatic speaker I 
never before heard in a pulpit. "Soldiers, guns, bayonets, swords, 
cannons and lances " was his theme, against " Peace, happiness and 
prosperity. ' ' Two little girls about twelve years of age occupied front 
seats in the choir. When the sermon was ended they sang "God 
Save the Queen," the audience joining in the last verse, after which 
Dr. Parker announced they were two little American girls from across 
the sea, who were in London on a visit, "and now," he concluded, 
" let us pray for that great country and great people of America. " 

And he prayed. 

As my friend the Captain remarked, "He prayed like a soldier." 

While we were in London the Captain and myself visited the 
Gaiety Theater. It so happened that on the evening in question we 
occupied a box. After the conclusion of the first act a waiter appeared 
on the scene with a tray covered with ices, cake, etc., and the Captain 
ate heartily. After finishing the repast he turned to me and remarked : 

' ' I tell you what, these Englishmen know how to do up things in 
good shape. Just see how they treat their patrons ! Did you ever 
hear of an American theater manager doing this thing ? " 

I acknowledged that I had not, but at the conclusion of the second 
act the Captain was taken aback by the waiter entering and present- 
ing him with a bill for 4s., or $1 United States currency. The 
Captain paid the bill without a murmur, but he had nothing further 
to say about the generosity of the English theatrical manager, 



34 



MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 



CHAPTER III 
Some Things Seen and Heard in London. 

DURING the early part of our travels, the Captain delighted to 
introduce me as " a live Yankee," but an event occurred later 
on that gave me a new title. We were stopping for a few 
days at an interior town, and experienced considerable trouble 
in having our wants carefully looked after. 

" If you promise to keep quiet for an hour, I will see we are well 
cared for," said the Captain, addressing me. 

I promised. 

That noon at lunch, the same old cause for complaint occurred. 
The Captain got up from the table, went out where the waiter was 
finally located, and addressing her, said : 

" Do you know who that gentleman is with me?" 

(< No sir," was the reply. 

" Well," said the Captain, "he is the Crown Prince of America, 
and I advise you to be more careful in your attention to him." 

The girl almost fainted, and I was as much surprised as the waiter, 
when the Captain returned to the table, she following, and bowing 
and scraping, addressed me as ' ' Your Royal Highness, ' and informed 
me that whatever I wanted I could have. After her departure the 
Captain explained the situation. I looked for my hat to beat a hasty 
departure, and since then the Captain has called me Crown Prince of 
America. He insists, however, that it is an actual fact, as we are all 
crown princes in the United States. I guess he is right, although we 
do not realize this ourselves, yet the Captain declares I walked 
"stiff er" than I ever did before. 

I am going to devote this chapter to minor matters that attracted 
my attention while in London, the first of which was a series of articles 
contributed to a London daily paper by Julian Ralph, an American 
journalist, who put in an appearance in London while I was there. 
His articles were published under the title of 'As Seen Through 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 35 

American Eyes." His first was on the beggar question, and he 
started off by offering an apology to the British public for what he ' 
had said in certain letters he, as a newspaper correspondent, wrote to 
the American press, when he was last in London. It appears in these 
letters he told the story of the London beggar, and I have no doubt 
he told it truthfully, but as he had now secured an opportunity to 
write for the English press the first thing he did was to take it all back 
and say he had been " misled, 1 ' and there were no beggars in London. 
In his first article above referred to he told of his visit to the homes 
of the poorer classes in London those whose earnings were four to five 
dollars per week, and "how happily they lived," that their life was a 
free and easy one, they had no cares, etc. He further said that the 
London beggar was a myth, or that there were no mo-e beggars in 
London than there were in New York or any other large American 
city. 

In contradiction to the above, let me first say that London is a pest 
house of beggars. They can be found on every street corner and on 
every street ; they are the poorest kind of beggars, and in many cases 
the dirtiest kind of beggars. They belong to that class that are not 
allowed to roam the streets of our American cities but are locked up 
for safe keeping. 

Then, again, the comparison of the " happy life" of the poor work- 
ing class would, were it not a solemn matter, be considered humorous. 
This class of people live in one or two rooms in the very poorest 
quarters of the city and there are more poorer quarters in London to 
the thousand inhabitants than there are in New York to every five 
thousand ; they eat but little, and usually drink all the poor beer and 
whiskey they can get. Indeed they are a deplorable class. 

Mr. Ralph's second letter was of the really humorous type, and 
even more ridiculous than his first. It was on the subject of " Eng- 
lish vs. American Food." Said Mr. Ralph, "I was glad to go to 
London once more, and enjoy the good wholesome eating that her 
people are accustomed to ; it was such a relief from what we are accus- 
tomed to in America." 

What could Ralph's past way of living have been if this utterance 
of his was true — but it was not true, and Ralph knew it, or else he 
was the worse specimen of an epicurean this country ever turned out. 
In England there is not the variety we have, the same meats and vege- 



; k 



:f I , 




{ i(, 
■& 



>:>> i : 



The Nightingale Tomb in Westminster Abbey, London. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 37 

tables, the same entrees and desserts are served up from January to 
January ; two vegetables, potatoes and one other, make up this course 
for every lunch or dinner. Their meats, with the exception of mutton, 
are never cooked correctly, while a good beefsteak is unknown. In 
the matter of dessert they are still subjects for a kindergarten. Dur- 6* 
ing our four months' tour of Europe, we stopped at the best hotels 
but they were no comparison to our best American hotels. On the 
continent they serve one better than in England, for they seasoned 
their food, while in England they do not. 

A word on the subject of living. First, to live the same in Europe 
as we do here would cost from 20 to 30 per cent more in any country 
I visited. Second, they do not live the same over there as we do here. 
That really covers the whole matter in a nutshell. The average 
Britisher would live something like this : 

For breakfast — rolls, eggs and coffee. 

For lunch — beef, potatoes, peas, cheese and crackers. 

For dinner — soup, beef, potatoes, cabbage, and either a pudding 
or fruit and coffee. 

The above bill of fare is such as is usually served in a family who 
may be called ' ' well to do, " but not wealthy. Compare this with what 
a man with an income of $1500 per year would have in this country. 
When we consider the laboring classes, they live poor. Their break- 
fast is usually bread and coffee. At 10 o'clock they have a ten or 
fifteen minutes' recess for bread and tea ; at noon, a soup, bread and 
coffee, or a piece of beef, bread and coffee ; at 4 o'clock, another 
recess for bread and tea, and at night their supper consists of about 
the same. Meat only once a day — some have it at noon and some at 
night. 

On the continent the working people live largely on bread and 
beer or cheap wine, with a soup or a bit of meat once a day, while the 
better class live better than does the average Britisher of the same 
rank. 

The purchasing power of a dollar is greater in the United States 
than in Europe. This may seem strange to the average reader who 
has never been abroad, yet it is nevertheless true. Said a French 
lady to me about two months before I departed for the other side : " I 
was born in Paris, I know just how far a dollar will go there ; I can 
get more for one hundred dollars in Boston or New York than I can in 



$3 MY FRIKND, THE) CAPTAIN ; 

any city I ever visited in Europe." She referred to the average 
purchase, and did not mean all kid gloves, all hose or any one thing, 
for each place you visit has its specialties. Gloves are cheaper in 
Paris or London than in New York, laces are cheaper in Brussels, 
works of art cheaper in Germany and Italy, diamonds cheaper in 
Amsterdam or London. Men's clothes are cheaper in Loudon, but 
while you get good cloth you get poor workmanship. Furs are 50 per 
cent cheaper in Geneva and 20 per cent cheaper in London than in 
New York. On the other hand, underwear, shirts, hosiery, collars, 
cuffs neckwear, shoes, ladies' undergarments and a thousand other 
small things are much higher wherever you go than here at home. 
Take silks for dresses ; one has an idea they can be bought on the 
other side for a song, but you have my word for it, that you not only 
find a better assortment in our large stores here, but the prices are 
actually lower, and this in the face of the fact that we import the 
greater amount of what we use and pay 60 per cent duty on them. If 
you go to a really first-class dressmaker or a milliner, you will pay 
fully as much, if not more, for their services as you will for the same 
class of work here. I could name a hundred little things that cost 
from 25 to 100 per cent more on the other side than the self same 
article would cost here. Take the necessities of life, such as meats, 
poultry, eggs, butter, cheese, vegetables, etc., and they are higher at 
all seasons of the year than they are in the United States. And in 
the face of the above, the average pay of the working class is from 75 
cents to $1 per day. No wonder they have to live economically. 

While in London I attended an entertainment where a display of 
animated photographs illustrating the Queen "s Jubilee procession was 
one of the attractions. These photographs were shown without inter- 
ruption for twenty minutes and you can imagine my surprise when 
they commenced, the orchestra struck up the ''Washington Post 
March," and it was continued during the show. This is an English 
theater. The next thing I looked for and expected to see was an 
English ballet, illustrating the Queen's Jubilee, danced to the tune of 
" Yankee Doodle." 

The Captain got mixed up with his English money occasionally. 
One day he bought three cigars. I asked him how much he paid for 
them. 

"Well," he remarked, "I think it was forty odd cents. I gave 
the clerk a shilling, thrippence. a penny and something else." 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN RUROPK. 39 

London was full of American flags. They floated from nearly 
every store. Walking up Regent street from Piccadilly to Oxford 
Circus, I counted no less than nine in one day, not little tiny flags, 
but full-sized American flags floating from flagstaffs on top of the 
buildings. Many of the stores were decorated with the American and 
English colors. Of course this was to attract business, but at the 
same time it showed there was a good feeling. 

The question has been often discussed as to what is the cost for a 
tour of Europe. That certainly depends upon how the tourist in 
question desires to go. It can be made very expensive or inexpensive. 
To illustrate, I will take for instance a case where dollars and cents 
do not count and give an example of about the cost of a tour of three 
months : 

Fare, round trip, $200 

Steamer fees, 15 

Fare from Liverpool to London, second class, ... 10 

Fare for continental tour, two months 75 

Fare two weeks' tour of England and Scotland, ... 25 

Hotel two weeks in London, 56 

Hotel two weeks England, . 42 

Hotel sixty days continent 210 

Tips, 35 

Carriages, 25 

Fees to galleries, museums, etc. 15 

Laundry 15 

Total, $723 

or in other words about $800. In regard to the expense of the above 
let me say that the passage across and back includes that on one 
of the ocean greyhounds, like the Majestic or Teutonic. This price 
will pay for a berth in a two-berth inside room, or in a four-berth out- 
side room on the lower deck. The accommodations, however, are 
strictly first-class. Higher rates of fare are charged for choice loca- 
tions in outside rooms, and where rooms are taken as a whole, usually 
double fare is exacted. The steamer fees include 10s ($2.50) each for 
your room steward and table steward and 5s (1.25) for your deck 
steward, who looks after your steamer chair and your comfort while 
on deck. 

It will be observed that I have put down the fare from Liverpool 
to London at second class, which is the usual way of traveling. The 




o 

X 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 41 

two weeks' tour of England is also to be made second class, while the 
fare for the two months' tour of the continent is first-class steamers 
and second-class rail, excepting in France, where the conveyance is 
by first-class rail. It will also be observed that the rate for two weeks 
in London, or fourteen days, the hotel charge is about $4 per day. 
This is as low a figure as one can get in a first-class hotel. Most of 
the hotels are conducted on the European plan and a very few, for 
instance, " The Langham," which is one of the best hotels in London, 
will take guests on the American plan, £?t a nominal rate of $3. 75 per 
day. As the Langham hotel is located in the very best part of London, 
on high land, with magnificent surroundings, there is no better house 
for one to stop, in case they want a first-class place — one of refinement 
and quiet. The average cost for hotels through England would be 
about $3.50 per day. These are also conducted on the European plan. 
On the continent the rate is about the same, provided best hotels are 
visited. There are many cheap hotels where lower rates can be had, 
but the average tariff is about as follows : Rooms $1 per day, plain 
breakfast, consisting of eggs, rolls, toast and butter and coffee, tea or 
chocolate, 50 cents. Table d'hote lunch, 75 cents. Dinner from $1 
to $1.25. These are the prevailing prices in all the first-class hotels. 
The estimate of $35 for tips will be sufficient, where one is travel- 
ing alone, as the amounts are usually very small, but a large number 
have to be looked after. It will also be observed in making an allow- 
ance of $25 for carriages, that this will be sufficient as one can usually 
hire a carriage for twenty-five cents in England ; the rate, however, 
in France is thirty cents to which must be added the pour boire, or 
"drink money," of five cents extra. In most all the galleries, 
museums and places of interest, a small fee, varying from ten cents 
to twenty-five cents, is charged, which the $r5 allowed for above will 
be ample to cover. The matter of laundry will be rather a surprise to 
the American tourist, as the Europeans have not yet adopted the 
American methods in this work. Usually it is horribly done and the 
prevailing prices are nearly as much as in this country. In case a 
party of two are traveling together, the total expenses will be some- 
what less for each one than the above, for the reason that two can 
ride in a carriage at the same price as one ; in other words, a carriage 
ride of twenty-five cents will convey two people without an additional 
charge, while in the matter of tips they will be increased but very 
little. 



42 MY FRIKND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

In addition to the above there are other expenses that will confront 
the tourist and they are preparations for the journey. For instance, 
a good steamer trunk will cost from $8 to $15, a steamer chair costs 
$1 each way, and there are other little incidentals that will be neces- 
sary to make the voyage a pleasant one. 

Now comes the question of making an economical tour. This can 
be accomplished, as follows : There are many freight steamers, ply- 
ing between Boston, New York and Liverpool, which convey passen- 
gers for the nominal fare of about $40 each way. The steamer fees 
are less, third-class railroad passage can be taken and the tourist can 
stop at cheaper hotels, and instead of carriages take omnibuses and 
tram cars, thus reducing the expenses considerably. Therefore, we 
might figure it up something like this : 

Fares for round trip, $ 80 

Steamer fees, 8 

Fare, third-class, to London and return, 7 

Fare, third-class, continental tour, 55 

Fare, two weeks' English tour, 18 

Hotel, two weeks in London at $2 per day, 28 

Hotel, two weeks in England at $2 per day, .... 28 

Hotel sixty days on the continent at $2 per day, ... 120 

Tips, . . , 20 

Fees to galleries, museums, etc 15 

Laundry, *5 

Total, $394 

or one-half the first estimate. 

In many cases the tourist prefers to go to pensions or boarding 
houses, where accommodations can be had in England as low as from 
$1.25 to $1.50 per day, and on the continent from $1 to $1.25 per day. 
In a case like this it would be necessary to make a stop of several 
days to secure these rates. In lining out the continental tour it would 
include something like the following : Liverpool to London ; from 
London northward, visiting the English lakes; thence to Glasgow, 
over The Trgssachs to Edinburgh ; Edinburgh down through York 
and several other interesting places to Harwich ; then by steamer to 
Rotterdam, visiting Rotterdam, the Hague, Amsterdam ; on to Ant- 
werp, Belgium ; Brussels ; thence to Cologne, Germany ; up the 
Rhine to Bierbich ; Frankfurt. Heidelberg, Nuremberg, Munich and 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPK. 43 

a general tour of Switzerland, ending at Geneva; thence to Paris, 
with the privilege of a stop over at the Dijon ; Paris to London, where 
two weeks will be allowed to visit the city ; thence to Cambridge, 
Hampton Court, Windsor, Oxford, Warwick, Stratford-on-Avon, 
Chester and Liverpool. 

Of course the above trip can be varied. The tourist can disembark 
at Queenstown and go through Ireland, crossing from Belfast to Glas- 
gow and do Scotland, and then come down to London, if he prefers, 
before going on the continent, or else go directly on the continent. 

The continental trip can be taken by going directly from Frank- 
furt to Leipsic, Berlin, and thence southward to Vienna, and then into 
Italy on the w T ay to Switzerland. In this instance, of course, Heidel- 
berg, Nuremberg and Munich would be omitted from the trip. 

We were riding through a beautiful country park, when our atten- 
tion was called to some blackbirds. 

"What kinds of birds are those?" asked the Captain. 

"English sparrows, " was the reply from one of our party. 

"Is that so ?" remarked the first speaker. "Why, in our country 
we never saw a black English sparrow, and never a quarter as large as 
these." 

The barber shops of Great Britain, and I might as well include the 
continent, are a curiosity. The chairs are little, low, stiff-backed 
seats, in which the customer squats himself and has his head jerked 
back with his face directed to the celling. The barber applies a little 
lather, runs over your face with a razor- and then hands you a towel 
with which you go to the wash basin, clean your face, comb your hair 
and depart. The cost for such a luxurious shave as this is all the way 
from four to six cents, yet, as my friend, the Captain, said, "it was 
dear at any price." 

What would an American tourist think if he were obliged to carry 
his bathtub with him ? Yet, standing in the smoking room of my 
hotel, while in London, I saw a carriage drive up in front of an ele- 
gant mansion, where some of the family were about to go on a journey, 
for their baggage was brought out and with it a portable bathtub. It 
is not an uncommon thing for families to carry this necessary article 
with them while touring in Europe. 

An interesting incident came to my observation while I was in 
Low's Exchange, Northumberland avenue, London. It was shortly 



OR, 'TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 45 

after the passage of the Dingley bill that I met two ladies here, evi- 
dently mother and daughter. They were from Cincinnati, for they 
were reading Cincinnati papers. The mother finally stopped short in 
perusing her paper and addressing her daughter said : 

"Maria, look here, 'The buggy business is picking up, and every- 
thing indicates a prosperous season.' That is good news for us." 

Maria glanced at her mother, and in return said : 

"Maw, I am going to have that diamond ring, sure." 

And from the look on maw's face, I am sure that Maria got her 
ring. 

While in London I visited an art store and was much interested in 
a gentleman and lady who came in while I was there. I spotted them 
at once as fellow countrymen of mine. They wanted to buy some 
pictures. They looked over quite a number and the dealer was 
explaining to them the merits of a number of landscapes about 18x24 
inches m size that were indeed very handsome pictures and were 
painted by well-known artists. They, however, did not please the 
lady. She insisted that what she wanted was a ' 'big painting. ' ' She 
did not care who the artist was, as long as it was a good-looking pic- 
ture and was "large in size. " I did not ask them where they came 
from, but I am under the impression that they were Chicagoans. 

I met a friend of mine in London who had a curiosity to show me. 
It was nothing more nor less than a string of beads that he had 
bought at the Vatican at Rome and which he treasured very highly. 
It seems that he paid $2 for the beads and that the owner of the stand 
or booth where he bought them, informed him that if he was willing to 
pay $3 more and would wait a few minutes, he would take them in and 
have the Pope bless them. My friend was only too glad to pay the 
extra amount, and the result was that in about ten minutes the dealer 
returned with the beads and the $3 extra was paid, and the best part 
of the story was that he believed the Pope had blessed them. I sug- 
gested that a sign might be placed up on the Vatican, something after 
this style, "Beads Blessed for $3 from 9 to 10 a. m. and from 3 to 4 
p. M. This for the Benefit of Americans Only. " 

After doing London thoroughly, we prepared to make our way for 
the Continent. On the day before our departure, the Captain asked 
me in which direction we were bound. 

"To Holland," I replied. 



46 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

"Where?" asked the Captain. 

"To Holland." 

"Holland, Holland," remarked the Captain. "Now, old man, 
remember one thing, do not ask me to take a glass of gin. That is 
something I never touch," and the Captain felt happy in the thought 
that he had given me a temperance lecture, as we were about to enter 
Holland. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 47 



CHAPTER IV. 

Doing Quaint Old Holland. 

1 I I HE Captain is a great lover of art and decided to invest in a few 

ei I b pictures. In making his selection there was one byFradille, 

JL an Italian artist, which very much pleased the Captain. 

When I met him at the hotel on the evening of the purchase, 

he came up to me and remarked : 

1 ' I tell you I have got one of the finest pictures in the country, 
and, moreover, it is by that celebrated artist, Fra Diavolo." 

" What land is this that seems to be 

A mingling- of the land and sea ? 

This land of sluices, dykes and dunes ? 

This water-net that tessellates 

The landscape ? This winding maze 

Of gardens, through whose latticed gates 

The imprisoned pinks and tulips gaze ; 

There in long summer afternoons 

The sunshine, softened by the haze, 

Comes streaming down as through a screen ; 

Where over fields and pastures green 

The painted ships float high in air. 

And over all and everywhere 

The sails of windmills sink and soar 

Like wings of sea-gulls on the shore ?" 

So sang the poet. 

The old saying that " God made the world, but the Dutch made 
Holland " was well put. The American tourist who visits the conti- 
nent and misses Holland, is like seeing the play of Hamlet with 
Hamlet left out. Here is one of the most interesting countries on the 
other side of the water. Leaving London via Harwich (pronounced 
Harrich) at 8:30 p. m., the Parkestine Quay, where the boat leaves for 
the Hook of Holland, is reached at 9:58, and immediately the steamer 
departs and at 8:30 the next morning you are at Rotterdam, a city of 
235,000 population and located on the right bank of the Maas. Rot- 
terdam is the second largest city and the chief port of Holland, and 
has wonderful advantages as a harbor. The streets, a novel and 





M 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 49 

picturesque combination of water, bridges and trees, delight the 
visitor. Many of the canals are so deep that ocean vessels go through 
them in safety. 

On arrival here we took a carriage and enjoyed a two hours' ride 
over the city. Among the interesting places visited was the Groote 
Market, where the peasantry were to be seen at their best, dressed in 
their quaint Dutch costumes and wooden shoes. The market wagons 
were such as our street hucksters use, and were propelled by dogs 
which were hitched up under the vehicle. Fruit and vegetables were 
here in abundance, fresh, clean and cheap. A basket, holding at 
least eight quarts, of the most delicious strawberries, and some of them 
as large as a half dollar, could be bought for twenty-five cents. Here 
in this market place once stood an old corner house, known as " The 
House of the Thousand Terrors." In 1572 when by stratagem the 
Spanish entered the town and massacred its people, a thousand of 
them sought refuge here, put up the shutters and barred the entrance, 
and killing a kid, let the blood run out under the doorway. The 
Spaniards seeing the red stream, concluded that the inmates had been 
dispatched, and passed on. 

There is a good picture gallery here, but the subjects are not near 
so fine as at The Hague or Amsterdam. From Rotterdam we took 
the cars, and one hour's ride brought us to The Hague, positively the 
most beautiful spot in Holland. The Hague has a population of 
180,000, and near here is the permanent residence of the child-queen, 
Wilhelmina. The city is lined with broad, clean streets, many canals 
and most beautiful and artistic residences. While Amsterdam is the 
commercial capital of Holland, The Hague is the seat of the govern- 
ment. Here is the residence of the Dutch court, the headquarters of 
Parliament and the abode of foreign ministers. From The Hague in 
1660 sailed Charles II. on his restoration to the British throne, and 
twenty-two years later William III. of Orange left the city for Eng- 
land to take up the English crown and become William III. of Great 
Britain. 

The Binnenhof , an irregular brick building, was once a castle of 
the courts of Holland. Within the courts of this place is the Hall of 
the Knights. Opposite this hall, one beautiful morning in May, 1619, 
Johannes Van Oldenbarneveld, prime minister of Holland, was put to 
death by command of Prince Maurice of Nassau, who was then stadt- 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 51 

holder. The story is told how for years the prince and Johannes 
lived on terms of friendship and worked together for the good of their 
country, but bitter theological differences poisoned Prince Maurice 
against his old friend, and led to the latter 's death. 

At the northeast of the Binnenhof is the famous gallery of art, 
once the residence of the prince. Among the notable subjects here is 
Paul Potter's " The Bull," which was removed by Napoleon to Paris, 
when he invaded this city in 1795. Later it was returned. Some of 
Rembrandt's masterpieces are displayed here, " The Lesson in 
Anatomy" being one of them. 

While at The Hague, the Captain went into a barber shop to get 
shaved. After the operation was completed the barber asked him if 
he would have some corrispitsa on his face. The Captain looked at 
him for a moment and replied : 

" No, sir, I never use kerosene on my face." 

It will repay a visitor to Holland to take in the stores and notice 
the methods of doing business in this quaint country. Some of the 
wares are cheap. This is the home for delft, and it can be purchased 
here for about one-half the price in the United States. To the smoker 
this is the paradise for a good and yet a cheap cigar, as there is no 
duty on tobacco in Holland. I went into one of the cigar stores 
and asked for a twenty -five cent cigar (ten cents in our money), I 
thought the attendant had a case of heart disease. Ten cents (four 
in our money) is considered a high price to pay for a cigar while a 
really good smoke can be had for five cents, two American coppers. 

Probably the most interesting place to visit at The Hague is the 
" Little Palace in the Woods" so styled. This gem of a spot is about 
a mile and a half from the center of the city. It is a royal villa, and 
was built by the widow of Prince Frederic of Orange. The drive 
from the main road is through an avenue shaded by tall trees, and is 
almost like fairyland. The walls and ceilings of the main hall, or 
dance room, are covered with paintings made to fit the spaces. This 
work is all of the Rubens school, and is something remarkable. The 
property belongs to the crown. 

Three miles from The Hague is Scheveningen, the leading water- 
ing place of Holland. It is easily reached by a fine line of steam tram 
cars, and the ride is a delightful one. The scene on the beach is cer- 
tainly an animated one, and the general surroundings are the same as 




1 

X 

d 

w 
d 

> 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 53 

any of our popular watering resorts. The day we were there occurred 
the "procession of the flowers," taken part in by vehicles of all 
sorts gaily dressed with a profusion of beautiful flowers, ribbons, etc. 

From The Hague we went to Amsterdam, the commercial capital of 
Holland, with a population of 450,000, and the largest city in the 
kingdom. Tourists say that Amsterdam rivals Venice for its canals. 
The city is bui t on piles, and covers no less than ninety islands, con- 
nected by over three hundred bridges. It is located on the river Wije 
(pronounced Wy). The most important thing to consider is, that the 
waters of the canals have to be kept on the move, so they will not 
become impure, while it is even more important that they have to be 
kept in check, to prevent the city from becoming inundated. This is 
all done by a system of sluices and dykes. 

At Amsterdam the Captain's attention was attracted to a sign over 
a door that read "Tehuur." "There," said he, "that is your name in 
Dutch." When he had the word translated, he found it meant "To 
Let." 

The royal palace is located on the west side of the Dam (the Dam 
is the main square of the city, and is located in the heart of the same). 
This building has no front entrance, but, as the Irishman said, "the 
front door is behind." The palace was presented to King Louis 
Napoleon in 1808, when he made this city his home. The principal 
sight in a tour of the inside is the main hall or dance room, which is 
60x120 feet, and 100 feet high, without a single column of support. 
It is said to be the largest room of its kind in Europe. 

The leading art gallery is the Rijks Museum (pronounced Ryks). 
It has a fine collection of paintings mostly of the Dutch school. 
"The Night Watch," by Rembrandt, and "Filial Love," said to be 
next to Rubens' masterpiece, are to be seen here. In addition to the 
gallery there is connected with the Rijks a fine museum of historic 
relics. 

The diamond cutting industry is the chief business of the city, and 
employs about 50,000 hands, of which 10,000 are Jews. The Jewish 
population of the city is about 40,000, and they have their own special 
quarter where they live. 

While I am writing about Holland it might be well to say a word 
about its girl queen, Wilhelmina, who on her eighteenth birthday, 
August 31, 1898, will be crowned Queen of Holland. Wilhelmina is 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 55 

the last of the House of Orange, a house made famous three hundred 
years ago, through the bold military achievements of its greatest 
member, Wiliam the Silent. King William III., the father of the 
quesn, spent the greater part of his life in wild dissipation. In 1839 
he married Princess Sophia of Saxony. At this time he was Prince 
of Orange, but after ten years had passed he became king, and the 
fortune he received is said to hive nearly turned his head, and he 
plunged into all sorts of dissipation, and finally alienated himself 
from his queen, whom he falsely accused of plotting with Emperor 
Napoleon to depose him and make her queen regent. Shortly after 
she died and left two sons. The oldest, the Prince of Orange, ruined 
his health and died, afte.- a reckless life in Paris, while the other son, 
who was of unsound mind, soon followed his brother to the grave. 
Left without an heir, the king, who was fast aging, began to look 
around for a wife, and finally decided on the Duchess of Albany, who 
refused him. It is said that when this refusal was made known, her 
sister Emma made this remark to her : "Helen, I would never refuse 
to become a queen." The king, overhearing this remark, was pleased 
with the same, and addressed his offer of marriage to her, and true to 
her word she accepted him and became Queen Emma. The king 
was sixty-eight years and his wife nineteen years old. She bore him 
one child, Wilhelmina, and nursed him carefully until his death in 
1890. A few years before his death, at a council of the States 
General, he obtained the setting aside of the old Salic law, which for- 
bade a female heir to succeed to the throne, and upon his death Wil- 
helmina became queen, and her mother was appointed queen regent 
until she attained her majority. Under the faithful care of her 
mother Wilhelmina has developed into a healthy, lovable girl, and 
won the hearts of her Dutch subjects. 

While visiting the Rijhs Gallery at Amsterdam, the attendant was 
describing at some length Rembrandt's remarkable picture of "The 
Night Watch." The Captain looked on, but his patriotism got the 
best of him, for he whispered to me, ' ' It may have been a big fight 
but it didn't stand a show beside the Battle of Bull Run." 

July 4. 1897, saw a party of thirty American citizens and 'citizen- 
esses" at' the Hotel Amstel, Amsterdam, Holland. As our National 
fete day came on Sunday we determined to celebrate it on Monday. 
The stars and stripes floated all day the 4th and 5th from the top of 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 57 

the hotel and we would occasionally go outside to catch a glimpse of 
"Old Glory." Monday morning a breakfast was prepared in the 
main dining hall, and we marched in at promptly 9 o'clock. There a 
surprise awaited us. The hall was beautifully decorated with our flags 
and the table was covered with not only little emblems of our pride 
but beautiful flowers, and then sat down thirty live Yankees as full 
of patriotism as if we had been at home. After the repast, it became 
my lot to take the head of the table, and conduct the feast to come. 
Addresses were made by my friend the Captain, and others, but the 
Captain gave us a regular Fourth-of-July oration. 

So much from our visit to Deutschland. 

At our hotel in Amsterdam the Captain got in conversation with 
an Englishman. During the talk the Captain mentioned Boston, and 
his companion asked him " if Boston was in New York." I could see 
my companion was lying in wait for sweet revenge. It came sooner 
than I expected, for the Englishman asked the Captain something 
about London. " London, London, " answered the Captain, "where 
is London ?" 

And I had nearly three months to look ahead, and the Captain was 
to be with me all that time. 




a, 
u 

I 

J" 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 59 



CHAPTER V. 
Antwerp, Brussels and Cologne. 

I HAVE had more trouble with the Captain. He insists I am no 
kind of a man to go around with, "as I walk too much," yet 
sometimes I feel like flying. While at the Antwerp gallery we 
were shown De Vriendt's celebrated painting of "The Judgment 
of Solomon, " Our guide was telling us about this wonderful work of 
art, and I found myself lost in rapture, but quickly recovered myself, 
when the Captain gave me a punch and asked : ' ' Do you suppose this 
picture refers to my friend Salomon, the leather manufacturer ? " 

Before I give the story of my stay in Antwerp, Brussels and 
Cologne, it may be interesting to know this chapter is written in my 
room at the Hotel Disch, Cologne, with the great spires of the cathe- 
dral before my eyes. It is a beautiful July afternoon. Tired with the 
sights of the city, I have repaired to my hotel, thrown open the sashes 
of my window, and seated myself at a desk directly in front of it, and 
within possibly 500 feet of this great historic church. The summer 
sun casts its brilliant rays over one of the most magnificent piles in 
all Europe. 

Leaving Amsterdam, after a ride of four hours, we arrived at Ant- 
werp, the second largest city in Belgium, with a population of 250,000. 
Antwerp has special facilities as a commercial center, and by a splendid 
system of docks made by Napoleon I., can accommodate 2000 ships. 
The arms of the city are two hands, representing ant, a hand, werpen, 
to throw, which were derived from a certain giant, Antigonus, who 
cut off the hands of those who would not pay toll, and threw them 
into the river. This is said to have been continued by him until he 
was conquered by another giant, Brabo. 

The churches here are embellished with some of the best produc- 
tions of Rubens, Van Dyck, and others. In the Notre Dame can be 
seen "The Descent from the Cross," Rubens' masterpiece. The 
original is a small picture, and is to be seen in the gallery. It was 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 6l 

after the completion of this that Rubens painted the large one. 
Here is also " The Elevation of the Cross," also by Rubens, and the 
" Assumption of the Virgin," by the same artist, possibly 15x25 feet, 
with thirty-two life-size faces. This great work was completed in just 
sixteen days. The center of the dome was nine months in completing, 
and was done b)^ an artist who lay on his back. This dome is 133 
meters high, and is reached by a staircase of 622 steps. The chimes 
are among the most curious in Europe, and consist of 99 bells, on 
which any selection can be played, or, as it was explained to me by 
my guide, ' It plays every known tune, either sacred or profane." 
Rubens died here in 1640, and was buried in St. Jacques Church. The 
Antwerp art gallery contains many notable pictures by celebrated 
artists, and many representations of the Flemish school. 

In our party were two charming ladies from the West. They 
shopped and shopped galore. While at Antwerp they purchased $175 
worth of lace. Some of the party gave them a short lecture on their 
extravagance. 

" Why," was the reply, " we are all right. The cost of this trip 
was defrayed by our father as a present, and our husbands gave us 
each $500 to spend." 

" Such being the case," replied the first party, " you ought to take 
them both a present. ' ' 

" We are going to do so, and have selected what we propose to 
take, and expect to buy them this afternoon," was the answer. 

That evening, in the court yard of the hotel, the ladies were dis- 
playing the presents bought for husband and father. ' ' Here is a 
meerschaum pipe for my husband. Isn't it lovely?" exclaimed one. 
" And to think, it only cost $1.20. I saw a beauty for $2.50, but I did 
not feel like paying so much. Then we bought this elegant piece of 
bronze for papa, the dear old soul ; he paid all our expenses on this 
trip. ' ' 

" What did we pay for that, Ella ?" asked the other. 

" Three dollars, " was the reply. "And have you got Charley's 
present?" 

"Yes; I bought him this lovely necktie for two francs (forty 
cents ) . I know he will be pleased with it. ' ' 

The Captain nudged me and remarked that there was a case where 
the " loved ones at home" were not forgotten. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 63 

The Plantin Museum is located here, and is the only one of its 
kind in existence. Christopher Plantin was the first great printer 
known, and was the publisher of the early different translations of the 
Bible in all the different languages. He also published all religious 
works of the King of Spain, Philip II. The house has been preserved 
in exactly the state in which it was left over 300 years ago, with its 
different workshops, etc., and here are shown the original manuscripts, 
publications, presses, type, wood cuts and proofs copperplates and 
proofs, in their original state. 

Antwerp is adorned with a system of fine boulevards and squares, 
that make an interesting sight in a two hours' drive over tne city. 

Less than one hour's ride from Antwerp, we reach Brussels, the 
capital of Belgium, the larg2st city in the kingdom, with a population 
of 500,000, well called "The Little Paris," and by many tourists said 
to be the gayest city in Europe next to the French capital. A visit 
to the Hotel de Ville will repay one. This magnificent building was 
erected in the fifteenth century. It is gothic in its architectural style, 
and is 200x165 feet, with a spire 364 feet high. The architect hanged 
himself in the door of the spire after the building was completed on 
account of not getting the spire in the center of the building. The 
Hotel de Ville is the town or city hall of Brussels. The aldermanic 
chamber is small but magnificent in all its appointments. The walls 
are hung in tapestries three hundred years old, while the ceiling was 
painted by one of the old masters. Leading out of this are ante-rooms 
all finely and elaborately furnished with old tapestried walls. The 
next room that attracts attention is " the marriage hall.' Here all 
who marry in Brussels, must come. The mayor ties the knot. There 
are two entrances one for the rich for which " all who enter'' must 
pay one hundred francs ( $20 ) which fee goes to the poor and another 
entrance for the poor. There is no fee for the ceremony. 

The Captain had got tired of having this and that picture by 
Rubens explained and described. When we got to Brussels and drove 
up in front of the Wirtz gallery, the Captain asked me, " What place 
is this ?" I told him, and as we alighted, he asked. " Is there any of 
old Robbins' pictures in here ? If so, I want to skip them." 

The Wirtz gallery contains some of the most remarkable paintings 
in Europe, largely of an allegorical nature, many hideous in design 
yet interesting to the lover of art. The residence of King Leopold II. 




PQ 



9 

2 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 65 

is a fine old palace, pleasantly situated at the head of a parkway, and 
a main thoroughfare runs through the center of the park to the 
Houses of Parliament which face the palace. Adjoining the residence 
of the king is that of his brother, the Count of Flanders. 

He who visits Brussels and does not go out to the battlefield of 
Waterloo, misses one of the greatest historic sights in Europe. We of 
the nineteenth century can hardly believe that so famous a fight was 
fought in such a small compass, a space of probably not over half a 
mile square. It was not a battle of guns and cannons, but a hand to 
hand fight. This spot may be reached in two different ways. The 
first by carriage ride, passing the old church where are erected twenty- 
eight tombs in memory of English, German and Hanoverian officers 
who fell at the battle. The second route is by rail direct. 

Arr ving at Waterloo, the first thing that attracts one's attention is 
a mound in the center erected to secure a better view of the place. 
This is ascended by 225 steps ; on the extreme top in the center is a 
large monument of a lion. From here is obtained a fine view of the 
whole field. Directly in front of you, after you reach the summit, 
you will find between the Chaussee de Nivelles and the Chaussee de 
Charleroi the Hollow of Ohain, so called. This is the spot where so 
many French cuirassiers fell in the early stages of the battle. Right 
and left are the obelisques erected to the memory of the Hanoverian 
officers and the column recalling the death of Lieut. -Col. Alex. Gordon, 
aide de camp to Wellington, who had taken up his position about 
here. A little beyond, in the direction of the village of Waterloo, is 
the farm of Mont St. Jean, which was turned into a hospital during 
the battle. Close by lies buried the leg of Lord Uxbridge, which he 
lost in the fight, and ordered buried here himself. On the other side, 
to the right, near the Chaussee de Nivelles is the Hougomont farm 
where the first shots of the battle were exchanged, and where traces 
of the bloody encounter are still discernible. This is the point where 
the French, leaning on the old guard, began to develop themselves, 
confronting in the distance, to the left, Wellington's lines. Immedi- 
ately to the right stands the farm of Belle Alliance, the place where 
Wellington and Blucher met after their victory. To the left of this 
farm is the monument erected to the Prussian officers who fell, and 
beyond this is the village of Plancenoit, where Napoleon stood. 

In our civil war there were many battles fought that for numbers 
pf soldiers and intense fighting far surpassed that of Waterloo, but 




: 

■ ■■ ■ ■ ',.'"■■■ 




3 
u 

z 



OR, fWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 67 

ror fierceness, probably nothing of its kind has occurred since that 
memorable contest. 

They say it is the custom at continental hotels, where the tourist 
does not tip liberally to place the hotel labels on the baggage down 
in the corner and upside down. The Captain heard of this and it was 
with pride that he exhibited his trunks and bags to his fellow passen- 
gers and told them that every label was on uniformly, with the right 
side up. 

"There is not a mean hair in my head," said the Captain. 

And if the Captain ever spoke the truth, it was on this occasion. 

Cologne has a population of over 300,000, yet one would think it 
scarcely so large by a tour of the city. I snppose this is the most 
Catholic city in Germany. In former years it was the seat of these 
people, being one of the oldest cities in central Europe, dating back 
before the Frankish kings of 460. In 1350 the Jews were expelled 
from here, and the city was walled in. 

It is indeed interesting to walk around the business portion and 
view the stores, most of which are modern and up to date, yet there 
are portions of the city that still show signs of its antiquity. Of 
course the most interesting object here is the Dom or cathedral, said 
to be one of the finest in the world. St. Peter's at Rome and St. 
Paul's at London are both magnificent specimens of architecture, the 
former the largest, and the latter the third largest in size in the world, 
the second being the cathedral at Milan ; but something in the gran- 
deur of the Dom surpasses all these. Commenced on Aug. 14, 1248, 
the building was just 632 years in process of completion, as it was not 
finished until Aug. 14, 1880. It is 496 feet long and 238 feet wide 
through the transept. It is built in the shape of a cross, and is 200 
feet high. The stained glass windows are its chief ornamentation, 
as there are no oil paintings of note here. The many windows and 
the artistic design of the glass arch are worth going many a mile to 
see. 

Looking out upon this magnificent structure, which looms up be- 
fore me as I write, I am reminded of the legend of its architecture, so 
different from that of other cathedrals. It is a story well worth 
repeating. 

The great Dom or cathedral was built, so tradition says, about the 
middle of the thirteenth century, by Conrad of Hochsteden, then 



iilik will 

»;« lis r m-,m® 




Cathedral at Cologne. 



OR, fWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 69 

Archbishop of Cologne, who resolved to erect the largest and most 
magnificent temple in the world ; so he began to look around for an 
architect, and finally secured one right at home. This architect was 
commissioned to draw plans and given one year in which to complete 
them. He labored for ten months, and at the expiration of that time 
his work was as unsatisfactory to the Archbishop as it was to him- 
self. Time passed and the year was nearly up. The architect was in 
despair. Three days before the time appointed to meet his employer, 
he wandered into the forests of Siebengebirge, disconsolate and al- 
most heartbroken, for he had hoped to build a church that would not 
only have been a monument for the world to look at, but would 
honor himself as well. Night drew on and a fearful tempest raged ; 
no object could be seen, so fierce was the darkness, yet this did not 
disturb him half so much as the thoughts of the hour to come, when 
he expected to be covered with shame and mockery. Suddenly a 
flash of lightning struck an oak tree near by, and a fearful clap of 
thunder followed. The oak burned brightly, and the terrified archi- 
tect saw a man step out of the flames. In appearance he looked like 
a poacher, yet he wore a red mantle and a broad brimmed hat with a 
feather. 

"A terrible storm, Dom Architect," he said. "How could you 
wander here? Follow me, and I will conduct you out of the woods." 

These remarks were like bitter mockery to the man. To be called 
Dom Architect, and he had done nothing. He turned in another direc- 
tion. The new arrival, however, called to him, and producing a bottle 
requested him to drink. This was at first refused, but after a second re- 
quest, he lifted the bottle to his mouth and drank. Like fire it ran 
through his veins. He drank the second time, and then, feeling so 
good, gave attention to his companion, who said : 

'T see you have no confidence in me, yet I am the only one who 
can help you. My conditions are easy," and with that he drew a 
parchment from his pocket, unrolled it, and displayed to the 
astonished architect the plans of the great cathedral. The architect 
was for a moment dazzled. Here was the very plan he had dreamed 
of. 

"I will cede this to you on one condition — a trifle — that you sign 
this bond with your own blood," and presenting a paper to the man 
awaited his reply, which was almost instantaneous. The bond was 



f6 MY FRIEND, 1 V HK CAPfAlN,' 

signed, the man disappeared, the storm ceased, and the architect 
went home and the next day astonished the archbishop with his 
documents. They were promptly accepted and the building com- 
menced. As it progressed it was decided to place a plate in front 
with the name of the architect thereon. 

Time passed, the man grew sad, and finally confessed all and asked 
for help to save his soul. The archbishop promised his help and sent 
him to a hermit in the Bifel mountains, who was said to have control 
over evil spirits. The hermit promised to aid him by continuous 
prayer, and after a season with him he was sent home, and told if he 
lived a pious, repentant life the balance of his days Satan would 
never have control over him. This the architect did, and the build- 
ing of the cathedral progressed, although not under his direction. 
Some years later he died, and the same night the tablet that bore his 
name disappeared from the building. 

Tradition says that by dispute, envy and hatred the Evil One 
succeeded in interrupting the building of the temple, yet work pro- 
gressed from time to time, but it was only on the 14th of August, 1880, 
over 600 years after it was started, that the last scaffold was taken 
down, and the grand Dom pronounced completed. 

The night before our departure from Cologne, the Captain and I 
were seated together in the courtyard of our hotel, enjoying a cigar, 
when turning to me, the Captain remarked : 

"Where do we go from here ?" 

"Tomorrow," I replied, "we start on our trip up the Rhine." 

"The Rhine," inquired the Captain, "it seems to me, I have heard 
of that before." 

"Yes," was my reply, "it is said to be the most picturesque river 
in the world." 

"River," answered the Captain, "why, I thought the Rhine 
referred to some kind of beer or wine." 

And then I got up and as it was a beautiful moonlight night, I took 
a lonely walk around the block. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 71 



CHAPTER VI. 

A Day on the River Rhine. 

, , ~T 'VB heard so much talk about the Rhine river that I want to 
J see it," remarked the Captain to me. 

J,. "When I told him that we would go from Cologne to Bie- 

brich or, in other words, we would go up the Rhine from this 
point, and it would be a half day's journey, from 8:45 A - M - to 8:45 
p. M., the Captain was delighted. He hed heard of steamers that 
would beat the Fall River Line, yet he had never seen them, and again 
he was doomed to disappointment, for the largest and best steamer 
that courses the Rhine is no better than our ordinary harbor boats. 
I think the Captain would have enjoyed the day had he not met an 
Englishman on the boat just as we were leaving Cologne, and that 
individual rather poked fun at the Captain, " because the President of 
the United States was an Irishman." 

"What do you mean by that? " asked the Captain of him. 

"Why, your President," was the reply. 

"Well, what of our President? " 

"Why, McKinley — he's an Hirishman. Could not you fellows 
find a Hamerican ? ' ' 

The Captain puffed away on his fifteen pfennig cigar, and it was 
some moments before he could recover himself to reply, and inform 
his English companion that McKinley was not an Irishman. 

Well, to our story. We left Cologne at 8:45 an d started on our trip 
up the Rhine. The first place of interest to pass was Deutz, on the 
left ; we then passed Westhofen, Bnsen and numerous other pictur- 
esque towns until we arrived at Bonn, a beautiful place of 25,000 to 
30,000 people, and the first stopping place of the "Express steamers." 
Bonn is properly celebrated as the birthplace of Beethoven, and the 
house in which he was born still stands at No. 20 Bonngasse. There 
is a legend connected with Bonn well worth repeating. 

Toward the latter part of the seventeenth century, when the people 
of this town were recovering from the oppressions of war, there lived 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 73 

here a young locksmith. He hoped to be able to join his father at 
Endenich, but as the old man had lost all his property the son was 
unable to go there and run the risk of living on his bounty. In deep 
affliction the old man resolved that if his boy could not come to him 
he must content himself to pass the remainder of his life in company 
with his only other child, also a son. Konrad, the locksmith, kept at 
his work, and made a good living, and apparently prospered until he 
fell in love with the daughter of a sheriff, named Gretchen Heribet, 
whose father did not look with favor on the suit. Sheriff Heribet had 
apparently become impoverished by the war, but suddenly began to 
show signs of great prosperity. His burned houses were rebuilt, his 
mortgages paid off, and he showed riches that he formerly did not 
possess or could not honestly obtain by his own labor. This caused 
comment among the neighbors. Some believed his wealth came from 
supplying the enemy, others from finding hidden treasure, while some 
believed he was in connection with goblins to whom he had sold his 
soul. 

With the increase of wealth the sheriff grew proud and haughty, 
and finally regarded his fellow citizens with contempt. In the mean- 
time Konrad had won Gretchen 's heart, and could only hope to gain 
her father's consent to their marriage by some strategy, but one day 
in a fit of rage the sheriff struck Konrad, and then vowed vengeance, 
not only on his daughter's lover, but on his aged father as well. 
Rich villain that he was, the sheriff knew how to carry out his plans, 
and ere long Konrad's father found himself pressed by his creditors 
and the sale of his property and his own ruin imminent. 

One night, after Konrad had managed to meet his love and been 
discovered by her father who drove him off, he repaired to his room 
in sadness, where in a gloomy state he sat until midnight, when, 
arousing himself, he bethought to call the goblins to his aid. Three 
times he did so, and the terrible L,app appeared before him. 

"What do you wish of me? " he asked. 

"I demand gold. Help me to it," was Konrad's reply. 

Lapp beckoned him to follow, and conducted him to the depths of 
a forest, then, pointing to a spot, disappeared. Konrad hastened 
home, fell in a fever that lasted several days, and then again visited 
the spot, where, after digging for a long time, he found a chest filled 
with gold. Taking out a supply, he returned to Bonn, bought a house, 



74 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

and in the meanwhile, piece by piece, brought the balance of the 
treasure to his home, conducted his business on a larger scale, and his 
success was thought to be due to his genius. 

One of the first things Konrad did was to pay his father's debts, 
release his mortgages, and make the old man happy. In short, Kon- 
rad eclipsed the sheriff by his mode of living and splendid surround- 
ings, and it was an easy task to win his consent for Gretchen's hand, 
and in a short time the marriage took place. 

After the marriage the young wife was not content until she found 
out how her husband had gained his wealth, and after teasing him for 
a long time he was about to tell her, when one night the officers of 
justice forced their way into his house, arrested him and put him in 
prison, and, after torturing him, he explained that he had found a 
treasure. This satisfied them for a while, and his wife was allowed to 
visit him, and in a brief hour of sweet interview he confessed all to 
her and was overheard. He was finally released, and told if he could 
prove his assertion he would be allowed to retain his wealth, but just 
as Konrad was on the point of doing this, the Jews in Bonn raised a 
great cry that one of their people, the rich Abraham, had suddenly 
disappeared during a journey and been murdered. Consequently, 
suspicion rested on the young locksmith, and he was again arrested. 

Behind the prison walls Konrad was again tortured to make a con- 
fession, and in a foolish moment admitted that he was a party to the 
murder of the Jew, but that the deed was done by his father-in-law, 
who shot him, Konrad preferring to criminate him, as he had been 
the cause of all his troubles. The sheriff was arrested, and after tor- 
ture confessed that he committed the deed. Both men were sentenced 
to be executed, and were dragged to the execution place, when an 
unexpected appearance demonstrated Konrad 's innocence. 

A Jew, just returned from a long wandering, happened to pass by 
and asked the cause of all the commotion, and when told, demanded 
that the proceedings stop, as he was Abraham. Both men were 
released. The impression on Konrad was severe. He and his wife 
left Bonn and removed to Endewich where his father lived and after- 
ward died. The young couple lived for some time but were childless, 
and as they were wealthy devised that upon their death their all 
should go to charitable institutions and churches. Thus ended the 
story of Konrad and Gretchen. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 75 

The Captain was enjoying the scenery, as we were passing along 
the river, when one of the waiters on the boat brushed past him. As 
he came back, the Captain caught him by the arm and remarked : 

"Sprechen sie Deutsch ? " 

"Yah," was the reply. 

"Einschiffen Verbauften Gesselshaft, " replied the Captain. 

The waiter looked at him in amazement and the Captain was wait- 
ing for his reply. Finding it did not come, he looked at the man and 
said in English : 

"Are you not a German ? " 

"Yes " answered the waiter in almost as good English as that of 
the Captain, "but I did not come from the same part of Germany that 
you did." 

And as the waiter passed by, the Captain turned to me with a look 
as if he had been insulted. 

"What do you think of that ? " he remarked. 

"Well," was my reply, "what were you trying to say to the 
man ? ' ' 

"I asked him in good German what was the next place we stopped 
at?" 

"Well, Captain," I replied, "you might have asked him in good 
German, but as near as I could get at it, you asked him something 
about ' embarking at an evaporation machine.' " 

And as the Captain turned his back on me, he replied that my 
education in German had been sadly neglected. 

From Bonn we sail on, and almost directly opposite lies the village 
of Beuel and farther on Kudinghoven, with a beautiful old castle for- 
merly belonging to the Teutonic order. From the steamer may be 
seen the beautiful gardens and villas of the Coblenza-strasse. A little 
further on is Obercassel with an old church tower of the eleventh cen- 
tury and the viaduct by which the railway crosses the Rhine. And 
still further on lies Godesberg with the ruins of Godesberg castle on a 
basalt 86 meters high. This was built by Archbishop Dietrich and 
finished in 1349. In the war between the archbishop and the elector 
of Waldburg, who had become Protestant, it was in 1583 stormed by 
the Bavarians. From here to Niederdallendorf, about an hour's walk, 
is an ancient Cistercian abbey, built 1 202-1 233. This was destroyed 
and rebuilt in the sixteenth century, and during the French rule it was 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 77 

sold and abolished. A lovely path leads along the side of the Peters- 
berg to Konigswinter. At the left side of the road, to the Drachenfels, 
are the remains of an old castle bestowed by the Kmperor, Henry II., 
upon the nunnery of Diet-kirchen, near Bonn. 

The wines from this section are considered excellent, and are 
called Drachenblut (blood of the dragon) for here it is said was the 
spot where SiegL'ied killed the dragon, likewise the spot where 
Detrich of Bern's fight with Bck on the Menzenberg. From Drachen- 
fels a path leads over the Wolkenberg, formerly a castle, to the Oel- 
berg. A little further on we come to Iyowenberg, with the ruins of an 
old castle. Here the elector, Count Wied, had secret meetings with 
Melanclhon and Bucer in 1541, before he became a Protestant, and the 
Elector Gebhard of AValdburg fled from here when persecuted by the 
Bavarians on account of his marriage with Agnes of Mansfield, an 
escaped nun from the convent of Gerresheim. 

From Konigswinter there is a road along the Rhine to the famous 
nightingale wood, where St. Bernard is said to have brought all the 
nightingales he had taken away from the gardens of the convent 
Hemerode, because they disturbed the nuns at prayer. 

Opposite Konigswinter lies Mehlein. From here can be made an 
interesting trip over the extinct volanco Rodderberg to Rolandsbeck. 
There is now a farm in the crater of the volcano. In former years a 
gallows stood near here, and the story is told of a young man who was 
executed for murdering his sweetheart. After the execution she 
appeared, having been visiting her parents in a distant village, and it 
was then discovered that the accuser was a rival who had been rejected 
by the girl. The remains of an old castle stand here. This was built 
in the twelfth century by Archbishop Frederick I., and destroyed in 
the wars of Charles the Bold. Excursions can be made from here to 
L,andskrone and the Ahrvalley with an old parish church in the 
Romanesque style, finished in 1246. Here is also an old cemetery 
with part of the walls in Roman. The portal with its relief belonged 
to a church of the ancient Christians. The different devices are repre- 
sented by animals as in the Apocalypse, signifying that nothing 
unclean can enter the heavenly Jerusalem, but must remain outside 
the gates. 

I had given the Captain the above account, and he appeared much 
interested, he listened attentively, and when I got through he turned 
to me and said : 



78 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

"Where did you get that information? " 

"It's a matter of history," I answered. 

"History," replied the Captain. "I don't believe it. If the truth 
was known, I believe you are interested in some scheme to cut up this 
territory in house lots, and you are planning to work me in the deal." 

Just then the orchestra struck up the overture from ' 'William Tell, ' ' 
and I was for the moment saved from any further thought about jump- 
ing overboard. 

The next stopping place we came to was Coblenz, a city of consider- 
able size and of much importance. Here is located an old castle built 
in 1786, and has many attractions for one who wishes to give up a day 
to sight seeing. From Coblenz on to Biebrich is the most interesting- 
part of the Rhine. Here commence the old castles and beautiful 
scenery. For five or six hours one has a feast before him. Just 
above Coblenz is Boppard. Here is a story told in connection with it : 

Bayer of Boppard was a knight and scion of one of the noblest 
families of the Rhine country, young and rather wild, yet good 
natured. He loved Maria, a maiden of great beauty, who lived in a 
near-bv castle. In due season they were engaged, and shortly after 
the knight went on a chase with some friends who were all bachelors. 
They teased him to that extent that upon his return he wrote his lady 
love, breaking the engagement. Not long after this the knight was 
out in the forest and met a stranger, who advanced and told him to 
prepare for a life or death struggle, as he was Maria's brother, and 
proposed to avenge her wrongs. The knight drew his sword, and a 
fierce combat followed, in which the stranger was wounded, and as he 
was helpless, the knight opened his helmet, and was astounded to 
behold the face of the beautiful Maria. 

"Without you my life would have been unhappy," she murmured, 
"and by your hand I wished to die." 

The knight strove to save her life, but in vain. She died, and he 
fell over her body senseless, where he was found by some of his 
friends and taken home and nursed to health. One of his first acts 
was to build a convent over her grave, and to call it Marienburg, after 
which he bequeathed all his property to it and then departed to Pales- 
tine, where he joined the Crusaders, hoping to find his death and 
rejoin his love ; but for years he gained renown and victory, and at 
last, at the storming of the Fortress Ptolomais, being the first to ascend 
the ladder, he fell, a victim of the enemy. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 79 

The noon hour arrived, and our party entered the dining room of 
the steamer for our dinner. The Captain took his usual seat by my 
side. 

"How is this dinner served ? " he asked of the waiter. 

"You can have it here table d'hote, or in the other saloon a la 
carte," was the reply. 

"I go to the other saloon," remarked the Captain, as he got up to 
leave. 

"Why so?" I asked. 

"Because I want just what I want, and nothing more." 

I asked him what he was hankering for, and he rather took me 
back by calling a waiter and ordering ' 'An oyster stew and a piece of 
apple pie." 

"Vont you hab sum leedle neck clams und sum showder ? " asked 
the waiter. "Ve haf no Yankee dishes mit us." 

The Captain took a table d'hote dinner. 

Above Bomhofen is the ruined castle of the Two Brothers. Hein- 
rich and Conrad were their father's pride, both brave, chivalrous and 
true sons. In the same castle lived an orphan girl, Hildegarde, who 
grew up in the family, who were relatives. The brothers knew her 
from childhood and loved her as a sister, until Conrad showed such 
affection that it was finally decided he was to marry her, but the cere- 
mony could not take place until the completion of a new castle to be 
called Sternberg, near the Iyiebenstein castle in which his father lived. 
Heinrich could not bear to witness the ceremony and, while he loved 
his brother, he decided to leave home, go to Palestine and join the 
Crusaders and with him went many knightly youths and young men 
of the Rhine. 

Shortly after Heinrich J s departure his father was taken ill, and the 
day Castle Sternberg was completed he died. According to the cus- 
toms of the country, the marriage had to be postponed one year. In 
the meantime Heinrich had so distinguished himself on the field of 
battle that his fame had become general, and Conrad determined to 
take a hand in the fight, and, bidding his bride good-by, departed. 
Not meeting with the same success his brother had, he started to 
return home and, while at Constantinople, met a beautiful Greek lady, 
and finally married her and took her to his home on the Rhine. 
When Hildegarde heard this her heart was broken, for with the return 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 8l 

of her faithless lover followed a season of festivities. Late one night 
a strange knight appeared at the Liebenstein Castle, and the next 
morning Hildegarde was shown to him, and surprised to find it was 
Heinrich, who had heard of his brother's wrong, and had returned to 
Hildegarde, and requested that she keep it a secret for a few days. 
On the fourth day after his arrival he sent a confidant to his brother, 
and challenged him to mortal combat. The challenge was accepted, 
and the fight was to take place the next day. The hour arrived, the 
swords were drawn, when Hildegarde appeared, forbade the struggle, 
and said she would repair to a convent. The brothers in the mean- 
while made up their grievances, and it soon transpired that Conrad's 
wife was in secret correspondence with a young knight who lived 
near by, and shortly after she eloped with him. Both brothers took 
up their home in Castle Liebenstein. and Sternberg was deserted, and 
since their death the two old castles have stood there as a monument 
to them. 

Above the Two Brothers are the ruins of the old Castle Maus, built 
in 1363. In the stream above St. Joan is a high hill with a sharp, 
rocky edge, a portion of which forms a profile of Napoleon. This is 
something after the Old Man of the Mountain, at the Profile House, 
Franconia Notch, N. H. Here the Rhine is the narrowest, and just 
above is a group of rocks called, "The Seven Maidens." According 
to the legend, they were the ladies of the Castle of Schonburg, who 
had hearts as cold as flint stones. The town of Wesel, with some at- 
tractions, comes next, and above that lies Schonburg, where Count 
Frederick Hermann was born. He served under various kings, and at 
the age of 72 fell at the Battle of the Boyne. 

In the middle of the Rhine, upon a rocky island above Oberwesel, 
is the Pfalz, an old castle built in the fourteenth century by the 
Emperor Louis. In 1504 the castle was besieged by William of Hesse 
for six weeks, but without success. Napoleon had it destroyed in 
1805. Many places of interest abound all along the river on both 
sides. We shortly come to Nollich and the Castle Nollinger, where 
a knight once rode up the jagged rocks called the devil's ladder, and 
won the hand of the fair daughter of the castle. 

"Say, Captain," I remarked, as we were leaning back in our seats 
and viewing two old castles on the river bank. "Aren't those magnifi- 
cent?" 



82 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

"You may think so," was the only reply. 

"Well, and don't you ? " I asked. 

"No," returned the Captain, "I don't." 

"Why?" I replied. 

"Well, I 11 tell you why," said the Captain, as he straightened 
himself up and lit his cigar. "You told me I would see romantic old 
palaces, yet what do I behold but a lot of old ruins ? I am wondering 
if you are trying to bunco me, ' ' and the Captain turned his back on 
me, and taking from his pocket a copy of the Bethel, Me., "Adver- 
tiser," he amused himself reading the town locals. 

Lorch next attracts our attention. It is an old town and dates 
back over iooo years. Near Ivorch is the ruins of the former castle 
Furstenec. Here, it is said, lived Knight Oswald, owner of the castle, 
who was an excellent archer, and a bitter enemy of a neighboring 
nobleman,, Wilm Von Saneck, who attempted to get Oswald in his 
power and finally succeeded, imprisoned him in a tower and deprived 
him of his sight. At first it was believed he had been killed by rob- 
bers, but his only son, Edwin, knowing of Von Saneck 's malice, had 
suspicion he was the cause of his father's disappearance, so, disguis- 
ing himself as an itinerant singer, when near the tower he rested, and 
a stranger passing got into conversation with him, and Edwin, by 
singing a sweet song, soon learned from him that a knight and his 
servant were impiisoned there. After the stranger departed, Edwin 
strolled up to the house, heard the sounds of jollity within, and enter- 
ing sang a song, much to the amusement of all the party, who were 
under the influence of wine. Here he heard Von Saneck admit he 
had Oswald a prisoner and had deprived him of his eyesight. A 
wager was made by one that, even blinded as he was, Oswald could 
hit a given object with his arrow, and he was sent for by Von Saneck. 
Edwin saw his poor father brought in, a bow and arrow was given 
him and he was told to hit a cup on the table, but instead he shot 
Von Saneck through the heart and he fell dead. Edwin immediately 
sprang to the side of his father and said he would defend his act with 
his sword. The company made no protest and he departed with his 
sightless parent, conducted him home, and, although he could not 
restore his sight, made his last days peaceful and happy. 

Upon the rock of the Soonwald are the ruins of Castle Sooneck, 
built in 1015, destroyed by Rudolph of Habsburg in 1282. The robber 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 83 

knights of Sooneck were executed here. Below was built, by the 
knights of Waldeck, the church of St Clements for the repose of the 
souls of the robber knights. A little beyond is Assmaunshausen, 
where the cream of German red wine is grown. Next is Bingerloch 
with Castle Ehrenfelds, built in 1210 by Philip of Rolanden, later the 
residence of the Archbishop of Mayence, destroyed by the French in 
1689. 



A soldier of the legion lay dying- at Algiers. 

There was lack of women's nursing, there was dearth of women's tears. 

But a comrade stood beside him, while his life blood ebbed away, 

And bent with pitying glance to hear each word he had to say. 

The dying soldier faltered as he took that comrade's hand, 

And he said, "I never more shall see my own, my native land. 

Take a message and a token to some distant friends of mine, 

For I was born at Bingen, fair Bingen on the Rhine." 

What school boy or merchant of today but has heard, "Bingen on 
the Rhine?" It is a dear old town with about 7000 population. 
Here is a great wine market. An old parish church of the fifteenth 
century, with a Romanesque crypt of the eleventh century stands 
here. Above the town rises the Drususberg with Castle Klopp, 
destroyed by the French in 1689 and 1712. Just below is Rudeshein, 
famous for its wines. The robber knight lived here and was con- 
demned to death by Archbishop of Mayence in 1282. The old castle, 
or what is left of it, still stands. 

"I say," said the Captain to one of the deck hands, who could 
speak English, "what is that sign up there, which reads, 'Rauchen 
ist Verbotenf " 

"Smoking forbidden," was the reply. 

"And that one over there ?" asked the Captain. 

"Talking with the pilot forbidden," was the answer. 

"And there is another one," said the Captain. 

"That means, spitting on the floor forbidden." 

Just then the Captain's patience gave out, and turning to the 
waiter, he remarked : 

"If I lived in a country like this I would commit suicide." 

"Ah, Mein Herr, that is forbidden here," was the reply of the 
waiter, as he walked forward. 

Here is a couple of short stories in connection with this country. 
The first is about Bingen, and goes to show how Hatto, Bishop of 




a 

CQ 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 85 

Fulda, wished to obtain the vacant Archbishopric of Mayence. By 
means of bribery, trickery, etc., he succeeded, although there were 
many more worthy candidates. After his elevation, Hatto became 
proud and tyrannical. He taxed his people to erect large buildings to 
satisfy his love of splendor, tolls were imposed and new burdens 
forced upon them. Below Bingen he built a strong tower, opposite 
to which stands the ruins of Ehrenfels and the Castle Rhinestein, so 
that all passing ships could be stopped and tolls secured. Later on a 
terrible famine visited this country, and Hatto was in possession of 
all the product of the last harvest, and only allowed his stores sold at 
fabulous prices, consequently the general misery was increased. The 
people prayed for help, but he turned a deaf ear to them. At last, in 
their frenzy, the people forced themselves upon him and his friends 
while at a feast, and implored his aid ; this he promised, and told 
them to go to a certain barn where grain was stored. After he had 
them secured therein, he ordered the doors fastened and the building 
set on fire, exclaiming, "With rebels, I treat them as I do mice, burn 
them." But, alas, just deserts awaited this cruel man, for with the 
burning of the barn, an army of mice came out and covered the place, 
and Hatto was obliged to flee to a ship, but the mice followed him 
and again he went ashore, but at last was overtaken by them and 
perished. 

The other legend refers to Rudesheim. In the early days of the 
Crusades there lived a preacher, Bernard of Clairvoix. He exhorted 
his people to the great cause, and among those who obeyed his sum- 
mons, was Knight Bromser, of Rudesheim, a widower, and father of 
a beautiful daughter, who was very dear to him. Bromser owned a 
fine castle in the Rhine valley and was rich and much esteemed, and 
the only regret he had in leaving home, was his daughter Gisela, 
whom he did not wish to expose to danger, but his desire to fight for 
the right prevailed, and he left his home accompanied by the tears 
and blessings of his child. Arriving at his post, he was recognized as 
a brave man, and charged with many commands that required valor. 
In this rocky, mountainous country, not far from the camp, came 
their water supply, which one day ceased, and it was found the cause 
was a terrible fiery dragon that had chosen this place for his home. 
The Emperor Conrad, who commanded the army, sought in vain 
for help, until one day Bromser offered his services and, accompanied 



86 MY FRIEND, THK CAPTAIN ; 

by the blessings of all, started on his perilous errand, and after a long 
combat, killed the dragon. Glad at his success, he was preparing to 
return, when he was surrounded by a number of Saracens and taken 
prisoner, and he was confined in a dungeon, where he was seized with 
a desire for his native home and his child. In this condition he made 
a vow that if he was allowed to return home, he would found a con- 
vent and dedicate his daughter as the first nun. One dark night the 
Crusaders attacked the castle, released the knight and in due season 
he returned home, where his daughter met him joyfully. 

The day after Bromser's arrival, a young knight, Kurt of Falken- 
stein, presented himself and told how he had met Gisela and won her 
love, and only required a father's blessing. Bromser in sorrow was 
obliged to refuse, as he would otherwise willingly have consented, for 
he knew the young knight's father, who was a favorite companion in 
arms. He told Kurt of his vow, who, after hearing the story, rushed 
in madness from the room, mounted his charger and hastened away. 
Meanwhile Gisela fell to the ground insensible, and from that hour 
was deranged, and one night bade her father farewell, and threw her- 
self into the Rhine. The father's life was full of grief. He built the 
convent, and one day a farm servant brought him a wooden cross 
which was turned up in ploughing ; on this spot he built a church 
and, to this day, the place has been regarded as a Mecca for those 
who were sick or in distress. 

So much for the legends of the Rhine. 

At 8:45 p. m. we arrived at Biebrich, where we boarded the train 
and in half an hour were at Frankfort-on-the-Main. 

The Captain expressed his satisfaction with the day's journey, but 
was still inclined to be a little cross, because of his utter failure to 
get an oyster stew and a piece of apple pie for dinner, and that Presi- 
dent McKinley was taken for an Irishman. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 87 



CHAPTER VII. 
In Fatherland. 

CEAVING the Rhine we stopped over a short while at our land- 
B ing place, Biebrich, with nothing of importance to relate, 
l except an incident that drew my attention to the fact that the 
Germans were very anxious to become familiar with the Eng- 
lish language, which is now taught to a great extent in their public 
schools. I was standing near the station when I noticed a bright- 
faced, clean cut young fellow, perhaps 25 years old. I approached 
him and asked "Sprechen sie Englisch ?" 

"A leedle," was his reply. 

I got in conversation with him, after a fashion, and he asked me 
if I thought he would learn English. 

"Keep it up and you will get there," was my answer. 

"Vot vas dot ? " he asked. 

"Keep it up," I returned. 

' 'Keepd her upd, who vas he ? " 

I explained to his satisfaction "who he was," and he gratefully 
turned to me and said : 

"I dink so. English vas more sphoken now as id vas sphokenpy 
dose vot sphoke id, put feefty years ago French vas more sphoken py 
dose vot all sphoke it." 

I came near asking him "Vot vas dot?" but I rather think I 
pleased him when I replied that he was correct. 

We soon found ourselves at Frankfort-on-the-Main, one of the 
finest cities in Germany. In fact, in my opinion, it stands next to 
Berlin. Frankfort has a population of 230,000. This is an important 
commercial center and has fine streets and buildings. There are not 
many public buildings or galleries to attract the tourist's attention. 
This is more of a manufacturing center. The Old Bridge, built in 
1342, crosses the Main and has a modern statue of Charlemagne. 
The town hall or Romer House was built in the fifteenth century and 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 89 

is of historical note. Here is the electors' room where they used to 
assemble. In the Kaisersaal or Kings' room are life size portraits of 
all the kings from Charles the Great to Francis the Second ( 768 to 
1792). In the Romer all the kings were elected. In front stands 
the Justitia Fountain, originally erected in 1611, afterward ruined 
and copied and restored May 10, 1887. It is said that in olden times 
when a king was elected, wine was used in the fountain instead of 
water. 

At 11 Romerberg was the house in which Queen L,ouise lived. 
She was the wife of Frederick the Fourth, first Emperor of Germany, 
and mother of William the First, and great-grandmother of the 
present Emperor. The house where Goethe was born in 1749 is at 23 
Grosser Hirschgraben. There is a house in the Domplatz where 
IvUther stopped in 1521. Other places of note are the Domkirche or 
Cathedral built in 1346, and fine monuments to Schiller and Goethe. 
Here is also located the finest palm garden it has been my good for- 
tune to have ever visited. There are many fine art stores here, where 
only the best class of works are sold. The display of palms, flowers, 
etc., is simply gorgeous. 

It was here at Frankfort that I informed the Captain that at our 
next stopping place, Heidelberg, we would visit the ruins of the finest 
old castle in Germany. 

"Well, " he replied, "you can go and see it if you want to. I 
didn't come over here to see castles." 

"What did you come for ?" I asked. 

"For fun," was his reply. 

And the Captain took off his hat and mopped his brow with his 
handkerchief. 

The story of Frankfort's foundation, as shown by a legend, gives 
this honor to Charlemagne, who fought against the Saxons with the 
fortunes of war often unfavorable to him. A brave, liberty-loving 
people often gave him powerful resistance, and he was often repelled 
by their superiority. It was in one of these encounters that he was 
obliged to retire before them on the banks of the Main. A thick fog 
covered the river and it was impossible to find a vessel to afford 
Charles and his army a passage. It was while he was pondering on 
what to do, that a deer with her young one, alarmed at the approach 
of the soldiers, sprang out of the thicket and waded with her through 







4, 


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OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 91 

the river. Charles took advantage of this without delay and followed 
her course with his army and escaped from the enemy. Arriving on 
the other bank, Charles was so full of gratitude that he struck his 
spear into the sand and declared that here a town should rise and be 
called Frankenford, in memory of the event. Later on, when he 
overthrew the Saxons, he founded Frankfort, which later became so 
celebrated for the imperial coronations. 

The Romer is remembered in legend. There was a great masked 
ball at one of the coronation festivals, and the rich salon was all 
aglow with the festive princes and knights. With a single exception 
each one present was filled with the gaiety of the occasion, and he 
was a tall knight clad in deep black armor, who attracted the atten- 
tion of all. Who was he ? None could guess. Toward the latter 
part of the evening he approached the Empress, knelt before her and 
asked the pleasure of a waltz. She consented, and with light and 
graceful steps he glided along the great salon with his sovereign, who 
thought she had never before enjoyed such a dance. At the end of 
the waltz he begged a second, a third and a fourth dance, which the 
Empress gladly accorded him, and he was envied by many a gallant 
knight, who would have considered even one dance from Her 
Majesty a personal favor, and consequently the curiosity of those 
present was increased to know who he was, even the Emperor shar- 
ing in the excitement. At last the hour arrived when each one who 
was masked must make himself or herself known. All unmasked 
except the stranger, who refused, when in desperation the Emperor 
commanded him to do so. Then he lifted his visor. None knew 
him. Two officials at last advanced and, as they gazed upon him, 
beheld the executioner of Bergen, when, glowing with rage, the 
Emperor commanded that he be seized and led to death, as he had 
disgraced the Empress and insulted the crown. 

The executioner saw that he had displeased all, and especially his 
King and Oueen, so going before them he threw himself on his knees 
and admitted that he had not only committed a great wrong but had 
disgraced his sovereign, so gaining the King's attention he told him 
that even death was not a fit punishment, and as it would not help 
the case, suggested as a remedy that the King draw his sword and 
then and there knight him, and he would thereafter throw down his 
gauntlet to anyone who dared speak disrespectfully of the King or 




> 

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OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 93 

Queen. The King made up his mind this was the wisest course to 
pursue, and drawing his sword said : "Arise, Knave of Bergen, knave 
you have been, knave you shall be," and the black knight arose 
amid the applause of all present. 

While at Frankfort, I became acquainted with a German official, 
who was much interested in America and Americans. In conversing 
with him one afternoon, the Captain came up, and I introduced him, 
and, in true Yankee style, the Captain immediately inquired of him 
his business. 

"I am connected," he replied, "with the Great German Empire ; 
and your profession, if you please ? " 

"Well," replied the Captain, as he put his hands in his pockets, 
"I am connected with the Stars and Stripes, the greatest flag that 
ever floated to the breezes." 

And the Captain turned his back on us and walked down the 
corridor of the hotel. 

From Frankfort we passed on to the famous university town of 
Heidelberg. As I walked through its quaint streets and passed 
around the university building, it recalled my boyhood days when I 
enjoyed reading Ralph Keeler's work, "A Tour of Burope for $80 
in Currency." It was to Heidelberg that Keeler came, and here by 
dint of hard work he managed to secure an education. Keeler was a 
famous minstrel in after years. 

Heidelberg is located on the left bank of the Neckar, and has a 
population of about 60,000. Four streets course the town, with 
numerous side streets leading from them. Of the population about 
three-fifths are Protestants and two-fifths Catholics. Over 1 100 stu- 
dents reside here, which gives life to the town. It is said that among all 
the German universities that at Heidelberg is the most renowned for 
its original student life. This is the home of dueling practice, and 
nearly every day there are scientific fencing exhibitions. The Uni- 
versity was erected in 171 1. It stands on the spot once occupied by 
the ancient Augustine monastery, where Iyuther, as deputy, stood be- 
fore the court of Augustine monks, April 26, 1518, and defended be- 
fore priests, students and the people his religion. Probably the most 
interesting place is the old cancer, or students' prison. The floor is 
plated and the walls blackened by the smoke of lamps. Here the 
students were confined for misdemeanors. The longest time on 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 95 

record for which anyone has been locked up, is forty-four days, while 
the shortest time is one day. The room is without furniture, and the 
windows iron grated. The new cancer is what the students call "a 
jolly prison" compared with the old one, and consists of several cells 
in the third story of the building, and the whole is covered with 
caricatures drawn on the walls by students who were confined there. 
While I remarked that this building was erected in the past century, 
the university was founded in 1386, and was the third one in the Ger- 
man empire. It has a library of 380,000 volumes and about 165,000 
pamphlets, and in hand writing 3334 codices, 2495 deeds and 2512 
charters. 

In the market place is the old house known as Hans zum Ritter, 
now used as a restaurant. It is built in style of the Renaissance, and 
was completed by Huguenot Belier in 1592. The facade with sharp 
gable and two attics is richly decorated with statues and ornaments, 
and on the top are portraits of four Franconian kings, and in the 
center are portraits of the builder and his wife with their coat of 
arms, and below them their two children and two rams. Opposite 
this old house is the Holy Ghost Church, with a lot of stands and 
shops for business purposes erected all along the under side. This 
church is remarkable for the fights that have been made for its 
possession by the Protestants and Catholics, and is at the present 
time used by both denominations for religious purposes. The church 
was erected in 1398-1414. Catholic services were held here until the 
reign of Frederic II. , when on Sunday, Dec. 20, 1545, the first Pro- 
testant services were held. Karl V. prohibited this, and Otto Hein- 
rich restored it in 1556, and various changes were made as years rolled 
on, until 1705 when a partition was put up between the aisles, and 
one-half given to each denomination, and to that use it is made to 
this day. 

While here, I was late at my dinner one day and entered the din- 
ing room just as the Captain was passing out. 

"Well," I remarked to the Captain, "what kind of a dinner did 
you have today ? " 

"Oh," replied the Captain, "very fair indeed ; they had two 
kinds." 

"Two kinds of what?" I asked. 

"Well," he replied, "a table de hotey and an alley carte." 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 97 

Just then two American ladies passed us and I was undecided 
whether to take my dinner in the dining room, or repair to some 
restaurant. 

The attraction of Heidelberg is the old castle ruins, which show off 
in majestic splendor from the top of a high hill at the extreme 
further end of the town, and said to be the finest and most pictur- 
esque old ruins in Germany. The first early knowledge of the place 
dates from 1303. Arriving at the top of the hill, which is reached by 
either a carriage drive or an inclined railway, we enter a magnificent 
garden surrounding the ruins. This is now known as the garden of 
Lud wig V. , but was formerly called the Grand Rampart. I visited 
the old ruins six years ago, but vast improvements have been made 
since that time in the grounds that surround it. 

The view of Heidelberg and the surrounding country from the 
lofty gardens surrounding the castle is beyond description and well 
worth a visit here to see. Entering the gateway of the castle, on the 
left we find the glass hall erected by Frederic II., built four stories 
high. The vaulted galleries are easily recognized, in the three rows 
of arcades resting upon stout Doric columns. This hall was destroyed 
in 1689. To the eastward is the Otto Heinrich building, the grand 
facade plainly showing its imitation of the Italian renaissance. This 
is considered the finest piece of architecture of the whole building. 
The plan was made by Frederic II., and completed by Heinrich in his 
short reign of only three years. The upper part of the nterior of the 
castle is wholly destroyed, only two single columns remain. The 
Otto Heinrich building is connected with the glass hall and just in 
front is the Zeughaus, built by Frederic II., in 1549. The Bell Tower 
comes next, and was built by Frederick the Victorious. A stone 
stairway leads to the top, where a fine view of the old ruins, as well 
as the town, can be seen. There are other connections with this old 
castle galore. I could use half a dozen pages in describing 
them. Take my advice, and if you ever have the opportunity, go see 
them. I have been there twice and could enjoy another visit. I 
must not, however, forget to mention that in the cellar are the two 
great wine casks of renown, holding 15,000 and 30,000 gallons respec- 
tively, and opposite the larger one is a carved figure of Clemens 
Perkes, the dwarf from Tyrol, Court Jester of Karl Phillip. Perkes, 
although small of stature, was large of thirst, for he is said to have 
consumed on an average fifteen to eighteen bottles of wine daily. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 99 

Bowing is not only a habit but a science in Heidelberg. Every- 
body bows and such a bow ! The hat is lifted and brought down at 
an angle with the right leg. One evening we were going into the 
concert garden — the Captain and myself — and as we passed up to buy 
our ticket, the ticket-seller took off his cap to us. I bowed in return, 
while the Captain looked on. As we were passing out near the close 
of the performance, the same individual saw us coming down the path 
and lifted his cap again, while I returned the salute. Turning to me 
the Captain remarked, "Where did you get acquainted with that 
duffer?" When I told him of the custom, he vowed he would not 
forget it, and sure enough he did not, for the next day a regiment of 
soldiers passed our hotel from a camping, and as the commander rode 
up on his horse, the captain took off his hat, and the salute was re- 
turned in a like manner. ''There," remarked the Captain, "when I 
bow, I bow to a person of importance, not a ticket-seller in a concert 
garden." 

When stopping at a hotel on the Continent, the tourist should 
remember and make a price in advance to include room, light and 
attendance, or an extra charge will be made. It is also necessary to 
provide your own soap, as this is always charged extra. Another 
little item of expense, that would seem exorbitant in the United States, 
is, whenever you go to a theater, concert or place of amusement, you 
are obliged to pay for a program, and if you want a railroad time 
table on the Continent you must pay for that also. 

From Heidelberg we made our journey on to Wurtzburg, a quaint 
old city of 50,000 population, and the home of the famous Wurtzburg 
Hoffbrau beer. At the upper end of the main street there was a sight 
for us well worth going a long way. For a half a mile this street was 
extended in the shape of a bazar, both sides being lined with booths 
where everything from a horseshoe nail to a brass watch could be 
obtained. At the extreme end were flying horses, target galleries, 
swings, side shows, etc., the whole resembling the outskirts of a 
country fair, or a miniature Midway Plaisance. 

During our visit at Wurtzburg, I made a tour of the place to pur- 
chase some cigars and traveled the whole town over to find one at 
twenty pfennigs (five cents) each, the usual price being from one to 
three cents, American money. I was complaining to the Captain 
about my inability to secure a good smoke here and that the cigars 
were sold at so low a figure. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. IOI 

"That reminds me," he remarked, "if I remember rightly, I 
promised you two boxes of cigars, if you would make this tour with 
me." 

I shuddered, as I informed him he was correct. Nothing further 
was thought of the matter until that night when, after dinner, the 
Captain passed over to me two boxes, each containing fifty cigars. 

"There," he remarked, "this pays my debt to you, and you will 
find here as good a smoke as you ever had." 

Timidly, I inquired of the Captain, if I might be so ungallant as 
to ask him how much he paid per box for the cigars. 

"Certainly," was his reply, "they cost me just four marks per 
box." 

That meant just one dollar in American money, or two cents each. 
Need I say that before I departed from Wurtzburg, the porter of the 
hotel owned the two boxes of cigars ? 



MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN; 



W 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Nuremberg and Munich. 

HIIvB we were at one of the way stations on our way to 
Nuremberg, the Captain had occasion to make a slight 
purchase. The attendant who waited upon him spoke 
English, so the Captain had no trouble in securing what he 
wanted. After the purchase was completed, he passed over in pay- 
ment, an American silver dollar ; the clerk looked it over for an in- 
stant, and turning to my friend remarked : 

' This is American money." 

"Well," answered the Captain, "what if itis? I am an American." 

And in the hot sun of a summer afternoon, I left the depot, won- 
dering if there was not at times a good excuse for crime. 

"You are now to see the most unique city in Germany," remarked 
a gentleman to me, as our train neared Nuremberg, or, as it is called 
in German, Nurnberg. 

I must acknowledge he was right, and that Nuremberg is well 
called, "The City of the Middle Ages." In size it is the second 
largest in Bavaria, and has a population of 175,000. The old city was 
until 1848 surrounded by a wall, with eight gates leading into the 
town. The wall still remains and the number of gates has been in- 
creased to seventeen. With the advancement of population and im- 
provements, the city's size has increased beyond the enclosure, and 
the best portion, or new buildings, are outside of it. The city is 
divided by the river Pegnitz, and six stone bridges cross the same. 
The present appearance of the old part is mediaeval, and in order to 
preserve all the old and original appearances, repairs and restorations 
are carried out in the old German or Gothic style. The streets are 
irregular, and many alleys or byways connect some of the leading 
thoroughfares. 

Nuremberg is quite a manufacturing center. Here are made the 
celebrated Faber lead pencils, and there are many other industries for 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. I03 

which this section is noted. In addition to this, here is the principal 
home and export market for hops, which are grown throughout all 
this Bavarian country. 

The history of the city dates back from 1050, over 800 years ago. 
In 1 105 Heinrich V. took and destroyed the town, and in 11 27 the 
Emperor Lothar conquered the city. Emperor Konrad III., who did 
much toward improving the town, lived here in 1147, and Frederic I. 
Barbarossa, who enlarged the castle, lived here on and off between 
1 156 and 1 188. From this period on to the sixteenth century, when 
the town was in its prime, various monarchs held and lost their sway 
here. In these times were born and lived here men like Albert 
Durer, the greatest of German painters, Hans Sachs, the famous poet- 
shoemaker, and others of equal note. 

Toward the middle of the sixteenth century, the effects of dou- 
bling the Cape of Good Hope had a serious result on the business of 
the city, as the trade of Nuremberg with Vienna and the Netherland 
cities began to decline. The building of the town hall was the last 
great effort of the government, while the Thirty Years' War fully 
exhausted the last means of the town, and killed its commerce. In 
this condition it was practically helpless, and it was fortunate to be 
able to incorporate into the Kingdom of Bavaria in 1806. Maximilian 
I., did much to improve the city, and under the reign of Ludwig II., 
the city began to rise and prosper. During the war of 1866, the city 
was occupied by the Prussian troops under the Duke of Mecklenburg, 
and from that date on to the present, prosperity and happiness have 
attended the old city. 

It is not within my province to give such a description of the city, 
as it now stands ( I refer to the old part ) that would do it j ustice. 
There are many attractions in the town — old churches, the Old Castle, 
Hangman's Bridge, monuments, Bavarian Industrial Museum, Ger- 
man National Museum, the City Hall, Albert Durer's house, and 
other minor affairs. I will briefly tell the story of what interested 
me most. 

First, the Old Castle, the most interesting part of which was the 
five cornered tower, where is stored a great display of instruments 
used during the Inquisition, a full description of each being given by 
a guide in attendance. Several floors are devoted to this collection, 
while the top floor contains a fine display of old armor, musical 
instruments, articles of warfare, etc. 




u 
o 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. I05 

It was here that the Captain called my attention to a piece of 
armor of the fourteenth century, with the foot covering extending to 
a sharp point. "There," he remarked, "is the origin of the razor 
toe shoe," and I was half inclined to believe that some of our Yankee 
shoe manufacturers had been over here and got a pointer for a new 
style. 

Passiug from this section, we go to the old well-room, where a 
curiosity awaits our arrival, This well, which is about six feet in 
diameter, is 335 feet cfeep. The attendant filled a large beer glass 
with water, emptied its contents into the well, and it was just" six 
seconds before we heard the splash as it reached the bottom. An- 
other glassful of water was emptied at six intervals, and after the last 
had left the glass, each of the six splashes was distinctly heard as it 
fell. A box about fifteen itches square, with glass sides, and con- 
taining four or five lighted candles, was lowered 300 feet, and, with 
the aid of a mirror at the top, the bottom could be very distinctly 
seen. The well was cut in rock by prisoners who were confined here 
in the eleventh century, under Konrad II. It took thirty years to 
finish it. A subterranean passage leads from near the bottom of the 
well to the town hall, and another formerly led to St. John, a suburb. 
The latter has, however, been destroyed. 

The castle contains many apartments, in a fine state of preserva- 
tion. At the time I visited it, workmen were engaged in restoring 
certain parts. In the Knights' Hall are to be seen some fine old Ger- 
man paintings. There is also an interesting double chapel, built in 
the romantic style of the twelfth century. The stoves, made of tile 
and mammoth in size, are real curiosities, yet stoves of a like descrip- 
tion are used the present day in all the leading public and private 
buildings of Germany. In the courtyard is an old lime tree, planted 
by the Empress Kunigunda in 1002, nearly 900 years ago. 

The Rathaus, or town hall, is a splendid specimen of the old 
Renaissance in early Italian style. One painting that covers one-half 
of the entire side, is "The Triumphal Procession of the Emperor 
Maximilian," by the pupils of Alfred Durer and after his own style. 

It was the second day after our arrival in Nuremberg, and while at 
dinner, that the Captain thought he had a good one on me. The day 
was warm, and I ordered a bottle of Munich beer. When the waiter 
brought it on, I protested and declared it was not Munich. He de- 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. I07 

clared it was, but I afterward found I was right. The bottle was of 
ordinary size and, when I came to settle for it, was charged two marks 
or fifty cents. Again I protested, and said it was an exorbitant charge 
to make, so the head waiter was called in to settle the dispute. When 
he heard the story, he turned to me and said, " If you want to drink 
beer for dinner, go over in that room where this much will cost you 
twenty pfennigs ( five cents ) ; here you must drink wine or pay wine 
prices." This pleased the Captain to that extent that he nearly 
choked from laughter. He said it was well worth ten dollars to him 
to see some one get the best of me. 

St. Lawrence Church is an interesting old cathedral, originally 
built 900 years ago. It is supported by 26 pillars and is 322 feet long 
by 104 feet wide, and 104 feet high. The handsomest part of the 
church is the choir, with its vaulted roof, supported with slender pil- 
lars from which the arches spring like palm branches. The seven 
windows here are the bert examples of old Nuremberg glass painting, 
dating from 1450. The representations are the "I^ast Supper'' and 
the "Wanderings of the Children of Israel," the "Story of the 
Passion" and the "Transfiguration." One represents the donor, the 
Emperor Frederic and his wife. Memorial coats of arms of patrician 
families hang in groups on the pillars and in the chapels, while the 
tapestries on the walls represent the lives of St. Lawrence and St. 
Catharine, and are over 400 years old. There are many paintings of 
note. This church, originally a Catholic cathedral, has for years 
been a Protestant house of worship, although all the old altars and 
emblems of ages ago still remain as when formerly used. 

We, the Captain and myself, had passed a day full of sight-seeing, 
and after our dinner we were enjoying a cigar in the smoking room, 
when I asked my friend how he was impressed with what he had seen 
thus far in Europe. 

"Which way ? " replied the Captain. 

"Why, the strange people we meet, the customs and ways, and all 
this confusion, does it not impress you ?" 

"Yes," answered the Captain, "it does." 

"Well," I asked, "what way?" 

"The thing that most impressed me, " was his reply, "is that, in 
all our tour, I have not found an oyster stew on a single bill of fare." 

And the Captain continued to -smoke his cigar in peace while I 



I08 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN; 

was forced to drown my sorrow in the thought that even the good 
have their punishment here below. 

The most noted church in Nuremberg, is St. Sebaldus, finished in 
the tenth century. Here is to be seen a font, remarkable as one of 
the first products of one of the industries of the town, as well as hav- 
ing served to christen King Wenzeslas of Bohemia on the nth of 
April, 1 36 1. In the column of the pulpit is an original painting by 
Alfred Durer, the "Interment of Jesus," while opposite is a copy of 
Rubens' "The Day of Judgment." Other paintings by Durer and 
artists of celebrity are shown. The eastern choir of the church is 
built in genuine gothic style, decorated with fine columns and com- 
pleted in 1377. In the center of the choir is the sepulchre of St. 
Sebaldus. This is the most celebrated of German monuments and 
was cast by Peter Vischen and his five sons, begun in 1508 and com- 
pleted in 15 19. It rests on twelve snails, supposed to represent the 
slow progress of the world. Four dolphins adorn the corners, the 
whole forming a temple, adorned with the twelve apostles, and this 
is surmounted by twelve smaller figures, being as many fathers of the 
church, and finally by an infant Christ holding a globous in his hand. 

There are a number of altars, paintings by celebrated artists and an 
organ built in 1444 and renovated in 1821. The exterior of the 
church, on the north side, has what is called the Bridal Door, with 
statues of the five wise and five foolish virgins. Originally built as a 
Roman Catholic Cathedral, the first Protestant services were held 
here in 1530 and since that period, it has been used by this denomi- 
nation. Like St. Lawrence Church, all the old altars and choirs used 
when the church was first erected, still remain. 

From Nuremberg we journeyed on to Munich, or as they call it in 
Germany, Munchen, the largest city in Baravia, and with a popula- 
tion of about 420,000. Here we find quite a military center, and 
withal a beautiful city, modern in every sense, and with a people 
well-to-do and wide awake. This is the home of the Munich beer, 
known the world over as the finest brewed malt beer that is made. 
There is considerable manufacturing, including bronze works. The 
streets are wide, well laid out and kept clean, while many monuments 
of elaborate description adorn public squares. 

"While here, the Captain asked me one day, as we were strolling 
along the street, if I knew the German for hot water. I told him it 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. I09 

was "Heisses Wasser," and asked him why he wanted to know. 
His reply was, that he was going in to get a shave, and he wanted 
the barber to use hot water. So presently we came to a barber shop 
and entered. Taking off his hat, the Captain beckoned to the at- 
tendant, and gesticulating that he wanted a shave, exclaimed "Heisses 
Wasser." The barber nodded, went at his work and never said a 
word until he got ready to clean his face when, taking a sponge, he 
remarked in good English, "Would you like some warm water on 
your face ? ' ' The Captain looked up, and when he found he had the 
best shave since his arrival in Europe he asked the man where he 
learned English, and was surprised to find he had resided in New 
York for eight years, was a naturalized American citizen and his wife 
an American women. The Captain paid an extra price for that 
shave. 

Munich is one of the art centers of Europe. Here is located Old 
Pinakothek and the New Pinakothek, both galleries of a world wide 
reputation. One contains the works of old masters, while the other 
those of modern masters. There is a so a permanent exhibition of 
art, etc., and many elegant art stores. Many pictures are sold here 
to go to the United States, and in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred 
the purchaser pays a profit of at least 75 per cent of the purchase 
price. The gallery contains many paintings of remarkable beauty. 
At the New Pinakothek my attention was drawn to Carl Von Piloty's 
"Seni before Wallenstein's Corpse," and " Thusnelda in the Tri- 
umphal Train of Germanicus." Also "The Deluge" by Carl Schoon, 
and "The Destruction of Jerusalem" by Wilhelm Von Kaulbach. 
All through these great galleries is seen the hand of the master in art, 
and to study them carefully would take weeks. 

The old Church of St. Michael is a beautiful piece of architecture 
of the Italian style, built in 1488. It is in a good state of preserva- 
tion, and used regularly for services. There are numbers of other 
churches here that will well repay a visit. 

Here is also located the Royal Bronze Foundry, open for inspec- 
tion from 1 to 6 p. m., to those who are interested. Among the works 
turned out here is the statue of Bavaria and the beautiful fountain at 
Cincinnati, Ohio. The colossal statue of Bavaria and her Lion is 
erected on a hill outside the Sendlinger Thor, in the Theresienwiese. 
It is of copper, 60 feet high, and rests on a pedestal 40 feet high. A 
stairway leads to the top, and the head will hold six persons. 




Karlsbridge, with St. Sebolds Church, Nuremberg. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. Til 

The second largest library in the world, the Royal Library, is 
located here. It is richly appointed, and contains 1,200,000 volumes 
and 25,000 manuscripts. There is also another one here containing 
300,000 books. One could easily spend a week or more in Munich in 
sight seeing. In the season this is a great operatic center, and the 
best talent in the world is brought here. During the summer season 
fine concerts are given in halls and gardens. 

One evening while we were in this city, we were approached by 
the head waiter of our hotel, who asked us if we did not want to at- 
tend the Harmonic Society's Concert ? 

"What is that? " remarked the Captain. 

"Probably what you call the Symphony," was the reply. 

So the Captain immediately bought two tickets and we wended 
our way and attended one of the finest concerts we had the pleasure 
of hearing while in Europe. On our return to our hotel, I asked the 
Captain how he enjoyed the evening. 

"I was very much disappointed," was his reply. 

"How so? " I asked. 

"Well," was his reply, "out of fifty musicians, I did not see a 
single one playing the harmonica, and when I bought those tickets, I 
bought them for a Sympathy Concert, supposing it was to benefit 
some poor person, but from the way things were carried on, I imagine 
it was a money -making scheme," and just then the moon went down 
behind a cloud and I felt relieved. 

I suppose the place that interested me most of all was the Royal 
Palace, positively, thus far, the finest and largest I had inspected. 
This building consists of three main parts, the old and the new resi- 
dence or the Konigsbau, and the Festsaalbau or state apartments. 
They are all connected, as is also the court chapel and the two 
court theaters. The court or old palace was built by Maximilian I., 
and commenced in 1600 and finished 1616 ; the original size was i8ox 
90. It is in the Renaissance. The two Doric doors are covered with 
rich embellishments. Entering into the chapel court, the old chapel 
is situated at the right, while in the vaulted passage leading from 
this to the court of the fountain lies a stone that weighs 364 pounds. 
This stone was lifted and thrown a great distance by Herzog Chris- 
tolph, son of Albert III. 

Close to it in the wall are three nails, one above the other, and the 
story goes that young Herzog knocked off the upper one, which is 










a 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 113 

twelve feet from the ground, with a blow of his foot ; the second, six 
and one-half feet from the ground, was knocked down in a like man- 
ner by Conrad, and the third, eight and one-half feet from the 
ground, by Philip the Springer. There is an old tablet on the wall 
bearing these words : "Whoever jumps higher will be removed." A 
door to the right leads into the grotto courts with a small garden, 
embellished with fountains, etc. The most important apartments on 
the first story, are those of Charles VII., including the dining room 
and audience hall, with portraits of the twelve Roman Emperors. 
On the ground floor is the treasury, with a wealth of good things in 
the way of fine old portraits, jewels, etc., worn by kings and queens, 
princes and princesses. The rich chapel has a floor of mosaic. A 
multitude of jewels, gold and silver vessels, beautiful embossed work 
in precious metals, relics of the saints, etc., are kept here. A particu- 
larly interesting work of art is a "Descent from the Cross " done in 
raised wax by Michael Angelo. 

The new palace was built in 1826 by command of King Ludwig I. 
Its front is 140 meters (or about 455 feet) long. The apartments are 
finely furnished. There are bedrooms, ante-rooms, dining-rooms 
and public and private reception rooms. The halls are adorned with 
elegant tapestries an 1 paintings in oil. 

The state department or Festsaalbau, is 820 feet long. This splen- 
did building was commenced in 1832 and finished in 1842 and is of 
the Venetian style. The arches statues and arabesques are represen- 
tations of Bavarian history, while the adornment of the grand halls is 
beyond description. The paintings, tapestries, ornamentations and 
furniture are simply grand. The Throne Room is 118 meters long, 
and 25 meters wide, with side galleries, each supported by ten 
Corinthian columns, and between them stand twelve colossal figures 
in rich gilt bronze, representing the ancestors of the house of Wittels- 
bach. Indeed, this fine palace is a most interesting place. 

The Schack Gallery is small, but interesting. The ceiling of the 
first saloon is done from copies of Michael Angelo. This gallery is in 
the house of Count Schack. He died in 1894 and bequeathed this 
collection to the German Emperor, who afterward bought the count's 
house and left the collection here. 

While at Munich, the opera was on and one night, I asked the 
Captain how he would like to go and see the "Barber of Seville." 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 1 15 

' 'You could not have asked me in a better time, ' ' was his reply, 
*'I was going to try to shave myself, but find my razor is dull, so I 
will gladly accompany you." 

The National Museum is a magnificent building, and one of the 
richest in point of collections in Europe. All the antique treasures 
formerly scattered about in royal palaces and other places throughout 
Bavaria, have been gathered together here, and placed in one grand 
collection. 

A visit to the Royal Bronze Foundry will fairly make an American 
tourist rise up in his might and shout for joy. Entering the model 
room or, as it is called, the museum, which contains full size sculp- 
tors' casts of many celebrated statues, etc., almost the first sight that 
meets one's eye is the cast of the great Emancipation statue, erected 
in Boston, and just beyond it, is the cast of the heroic statue of 
Washington, erected in Baltimore. There are many other casts of 
American statesmen. At the base of the Washington cast were 
nearly one thousand personal cards of American visitors, who had 
deposited them there while visiting the works. Mine went in with 
the rest and the Captain insisted on going up to the hotel and getting 
a large half sheet poster of the Emerson shoe and leaving that as a 
memento, but I finally made him understand this could not be al- 
lowed, so he deposited his card calling for 29 shoe stores. 

While at Munich one could make an interesting trip and visit the 
favorite castles of the late King Iyudwigll. Berg is the smallest and 
is located on the Lake of Starnberg. The interior is simple and the 
rooms are small when compared with the others. It was here the 
king passed his last hours. 

Herrenchiernsee Castle is located on Herren Island. It is two 
stories high and 100 meters long. The building and grounds are finely 
appointed and the decorations and fittings of the castle are fine. 

Neuschwanstein Castle is located about one hour's walk from the 
the village of Fussen. The principal apartment is the Throne Room, 
a great hall in the byzantine style and two stories high. High marble 
columns support two galleries, one above the other. The dining- 
room is in red and gold, while the other apartments are fine. The 
whole is rich in paintings and decorations. 

Linderhof Castle is near Oberau, and while the building is not to 
be seen for any distance, it is an old structure, however. The chief 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. IIJ 

beauty here is the magnificent gardens. The castle itself is only one 
story and small in dimensions. The Gobelin Room furniture is 
covered with real Gobelin embroidery and the wall ornamented with 
paintings in the Gobelin style. The Yellow Cabinet is finished with 
yellow silk and gold embroidery. The Violet Cabinet in violet and 
gold. The Rose and Blue Cabinet in rose and blue. In the gardens 
all is magnificence and splendor and must be seen to be appreciated. 

So we closed our visit to Munich and the Captain asked me where 
we were next bound for. When I told him Switzerland, he offered to 
bet me 1 10 its scenery could not stand a show beside that of the 
White Mountains or California. 

During* our stay here there was some kind of a national celebra- 
tion going on, and the Captain and I started out in the afternoon to 
take in the sights. ■ Our attention was attracted to a hurdy-gurdy, 
playing the "Star Spangled Banner.'' It interested the Captain to 
that extent that he kept within hearing distance of the organ, until it 
had finished the piece. Arriving at the market-place, we found a 
band concert in progress, and the populace were loud in their cheers 
of the national anthems. It was while I listened to this music, I 
missed the Captain and hunted in every direction for him, until I 
finally made up my mind, he had either got lost, or had gone back to 
the hotel. I started in that direction, when you can imagine my sur- 
prise to see him coming up the street with the man with the hurdy- 
gurdy following. Knowing that something was in the wind, I 
crossed to the opposite side and watched the Captain plant his man 
with the hurdy-gurdy in front of the brass band, and after a few ges- 
tures to him, the man started up the "Star Spangled Banner." What 
the result was, I cannot say, but I made a bee line for the hotel and 
left the Captain to face the consequences. At the same time, as the 
Captain returned to the hotel in good condition, I have every reason 
believe that the general public of Nuremberg did not know the 
American National Anthem. 



Il8 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN; 



CHAPTER IX. 

Our First Week in Switzerland, 

V I I HE Captain wanted to bet me $10 that the White Mountain 

ei I is scenery would surpass that of Switzerland. I even believe that 

jL after passing through the latter country, the Captain would 

make this bet regarding his own native heath, Bethel, Me., but 

the Captain is not a lover of nature. 

From Munich we entered Switzerland, our first stopping place 
being Zurich. We came down by way of I^andau and crossed L,ake 
Constance. With the exception of the lake ride, the journey is un- 
eventful of scenery of a mountainous nature, yet there is an interesting 
panorama of rustic life well worth the trip. But as regards Swiss 
mountain scenery, in my opinion there is no more comparison between 
that of Switzerland and the White Mountains, than there could be 
between the Hudson river and the Atlantic ocean. Both are vastly 
different, and Switzerland leads the world in this particular gift of 
nature. 

Zurich, the metropolis of Switzerland, is a beautiful city of 150,000 
population, and lies on the lake of the same name and at the point 
where the river Limmat starts its course. The city extends from the 
heights of Zurichberg to the base of the steep ridge, called the Uto. 
Its importance is partly owing to its situation at the foot of the Alps, 
and 1345 feet above sea level. It is also on the ancient commercial 
highway leading from the heart of Lombardy, across the mountains 
of Rhaetia, and along the various lakes and rivers into Germany. 
The walks and rides through the suburbs are fine, the woods and paths 
are well kept, and the variety of scenery beautiful. The hotel where 
we stopped, the Baur-au-lac, or " Bower by the lake," faces the lake, 
with a magnificent garden of walks, trees and shrubbery in front, 
which extend to the lake front. In the evening, when the house and 
gardens shine with hundreds of lights, and the city part of the lake 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. IT9 

front glows with the same, the scene is like that of fairyland. Look- 
ing beyond, we find both sides of this sheet of water lined with villas, 
typical of Swiss architecture, while the waters glitter with the little 
crafts that are gliding here and there. Steamboats course the lake 
constantly, and visit many interesting points, including Au and quiet 
Ufenau, which Conrad Meyer has so poetically woven in his beautiful 
song of " Hutton's Last Days." 

The attractions in Zurich are noble churches with ancient history 
attached, the town library of 130,000 volumes, the Antiquarian Museum, 
the Town Hall, the Swiss National Museum, schools and universities 
and other public buildings. 

It was while we were at Zurich that the Captain's attention was 
attracted to a poster of a " circus," admission ten francs ($2), and he 
was determined to visit the "show," so he started out to find the 
place, and at last succeeded and paid his money. But when he en- 
tered the building he was rather taken back by being addressed in 
English, and asked what kind of a horse he preferred. The Captain 
turned to me to help him out, and upon inquiry it was discovered that 
this ' ' circus" was a school for horseback riding. The Captain refused 
to select a horse, left in disgust and the last I saw of him he was try- 
ing to find a soda fountain. 

From Zurich we journeyed to Lucerne — Lucerne the beautiful. It 
was an easy place to reach, but a hard place to leave, because one feels 
like settling down in this spot. From the windows of my hotel I had 
a full view of the Rigi-Kulm and Pilatus, two mountains of note, 
while in all directions the vast chain, a part of the Alps, looms up 
before the eye. Here is where Swiss mountain scenery begins. 

Lucerne has only 20,000 population, yet this number is swelled 
fifty per cent in the season. This is a summer resort pure and simple. 
The large hotels and many of the stores are closed from October to 
April. The town lies directly on the Lake of Lucerne, one of the 
finest sheets of water in all Europe. The old walls, which once en- 
circled the town, are in part intact, and from the lake command a 
unique view. The inhabitants still cling to the mediaeval usages and 
frolics of carnival time, yet all is changed in the summer season. 
When we arrived here, and were on our way to the hotel, it was a ques- 
tion with me if Lucerne was not a part of the United States, for the 
Star Spangled Banner floated in all directions, from buildings, in store 




■a 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 121 

windows and on the boats on the lake. But, alas ! it was only a 
scheme to catch" dollars from the Yankee visitors. When we walked 
the streets and entered public places, stores, etc., it seemed to me that 
all with whom we came in contact spoke English, but when we en- 
tered the old cathedral to attend the organ concert, and an admission 
fee of one franc was charged, it was a case of a decidedly foreign 
aspect. By the way, speaking of these organ concerts, which are a 
feature here and take place every evening at 6:30, one who is a lover 
of music will find a rare treat in them. The organ was built in 1651 
and remodeled in 1851. 

It was here that the Captain thought he had got in trouble. He 
entered a cigar store and bought one franc's worth, and tendered in 
payment a gold ten franc piece, which he said was the smallest change 
he had. In the meantime the attendant, who could not speak Eng- 
lish, passed out nine francs change. But in order to help out the 
Captain I offered him a franc piece, which he gave in payment for 
his cigars, and returned the silver change and took his gold piece. In 
the meantime we loitered around a few moments, looking at this and 
that, and as we started to leave the store, the attendant suddenly 
recollected that he had given the Captain nine francs in silver and 
also returned the ten franc gold piece, so he wanted his silver re- 
turned. In vain we explained that he had already taken his silver, 
but he was not satisfied. Just then the rain began to drop, and the 
Captain darted out of the door and made a bee line for the hotel, leav- 
ing me to settle the affair, which I finally did by having him count up 
the contents of the money drawer. When I returned to the hotel I 
found the Captain interviewing the portier on fines and sentences in 
cases of flimflam. 

The origin of Lucerne is said to be veiled in the mists of antiquity. 
In the days of the Romans it was a small fishing town. It was in 695 
that the first cathedral and convent, that of St. Leodegar, was founded 
here by Duke Wickard, of Swabia. About this time, on account of 
its increasing commerce with Germany and Italy, Lucerne was rising 
in importance and was purchased by King Rudolf, of Hapsburg. The 
town remained but a short time under the rule of Austria, acquiring its 
freedom in 1321 by a union with the Three Cantons, with whom it had 
been in league for eighty years. Eleven years later, in 1332, Lucerne 
threw off its last yoke and formally joined the confederacy and was 




< a 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 1 23 

for a long time the ecclesiastical capital of Switzerland, as well as the 
gathering place of those whose mercenary conduct in selling their 
services to the best paying state or monarch, long made Switzerland's 
name a byword among the nations. A few patrician families exer- 
cised a more or less despotic sway over the remainder of the can- 
ton, until the intervention of Napoleon in 1803. At the time of 
the war of the Sonderbond or Separate League, 1845 to 1847, Lucerne 
was the seat of the seceding government under Siegwart-Muller. The 
fate of the League was decided by the battle of Gisikon on the 23d of 
November, 1847, and the following day Lucerne capitulated. Under 
the promulgation of the new constitution of 1848, Lucerne shared 
with Berne and Zurich the distinction of being a meeting place of the 
Federal Assembly. 

Lucerne contains but few buildings of public interest, but owes its 
charm to its situation on that romantic lake that bears its name. The 
cathedral is an attractive old building, the original of which, I made 
mention, was built in 695 and afterward destroyed by fire. The 
present edifice was erected about the middle of the seventeenth cen- 
tury, and is consequently nearly 250 years old. There are a number 
of fine old paintings, altars and statues to be seen here. In the 
churchyard surrounding the cathedral are many interesting monu- 
ments. 

" Look here," said the Captain, as he walked up tome, and helped 
himself to a cigar from my vest pocket, " even the waterfalls of 
Switzerland seem to be run in the interest of the Switzer, as they flow 
during the tourist season and strike in the winter, when they are little 
needed, and when there are no rich Yankees here to view their 
beauties," and then the Captain borrowed a match from a passer-by, 
and as he stood there puffing my Havana he remarked to a native 
Swiss, who did not understand a word of English, that it was "a 
fine day." 

Just beyond the cathedral is the attraction of Lucerne in the way 
of a novelty, and that is " The Lion in the Rock," positively the 
grandest piece of work I ever saw in my life. Facing a pool of water, 
is a perpendicular rock, possibly 100 feet high and as many feet wide. 
It has a smooth surface and in the center is cut a representation of a 
lion. The great beast lies stretched in the agonies of death, a broken 
lance piercing his side while his paw rests on the Bourbon coat of 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 12$ 

arms as a token that even in death he will not forsake his trust. A 
pool of water overshadowed by pines and maples, bears the reflection 
of this noble beast upon its surface. This work was executed by 
Lucus Ahorn, of Constance. It was after a model by Thorwaldsen 
and was completed in 182 1. It is intended as a monument to com- 
memorate the soldiers and officers of the Swiss Guard who to the 
number of eight hundred laid down their lives at the Tuileries in Paris 
in defense of King Louis XVI., on the 10th of August and 2d and 3d 
of September, 1792. Above the Lion, which is possibly 25 feet in 
length, appears this inscription: "The Faith and Valor of Switzer- 
land." Beneath are engraved the names of its officers. The men 
who so bravely gave up their lives are, perhaps, to find a more lasting 
monument in the eloquent words of Carlyle : " Honor to you, brave 
men ; honorable pity, through long times ! Not martyrs are ye, and 
yet almost more. He was no king of yours, this Louis, and he for- 
sook you like a king of shreds and patches ! Ye were but sold to him 
for some poor sixpence a day, yet would ye work for your wages, 
keep your plighted word. The work now was to die, and ye did it. 
Honor to you, O kinsmen ! and may the old Deutsch Biederkiet and 
Tapferkeit and valor, which is worth and truth, be they Swiss, be they 
Saxon, fail in no age. Not bastards, true born are these men, sons of 
the men of Sempach of Murten, who knelt but not to thee, O Bur- 
gundy! Let the traveler, as he passes through Lucerne, turn aside to 
look a moment at their monumental Lion ; not for Thorwaldsen' s 
sake alone. Hewn out of solid rock, the figure rests there by the still 
waters of the lake, in lullaby of distant tinkling ranz-des-vaches, the 
granite mountains dumbly keeping watch all round, and, though 
inanimate, speaks." 

These are Carlyle's words, and his tribute of years gone by still 
rings out words of cheer to the Swiss patriot. 

The Captain was full of enthusiasm when we started to view "The 
Lion in the Rock." He was a "lover of wild beasts" and wanted to 
see this one. He saw it — in disgust. After viewing it for a moment 
he turned to me and remarked: "Let's go; it is only hewn out of 
rock." But I lingered to look at this wonderful monument, while 
the Captain took in a panorama, at an admission price of fifty cen- 
times. 

Near the "Lion in the Rock," stands a small chapel, dedicated to 
the slain soldiers and bearing the inscription : "Peace to the Uncon- 




3 
_) 

u 

«s 

z 



■a 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 1 27 

quered." The interior of the chapel is hung with the banners and 
weapons of the Guard, and on the 10th of August of each year masses 
are said here for the repose of the souls of the dead. When this 
information was conveyed tome, the thought occurred — after over one 
hundred years what would become of their souls if mass was omitted ? 

To the left of the Lion is the entrance to the Glacier Garden, a 
magnificent memorial of the glacier epoch. This furnishes a striking 
picture of the glacier's movements in polishing the surface of the 
rocks immediately underneath. It is unique. This must be seen to 
be fully appreciated. Down in the Weinmarkt is an ancient fountain 
erected in 1481, and in its immediate vicinity will be found "the old 
Council House built in 1660. Four bridges cross the River Reuss, 
which commences here from the lake. There is only one of real 
interest, and that is known as the Kopellbrucke, and is an old, dilap- 
idated affair of considerable length. It is built of wood roofed in, 
and is for pedestrians only. The Kopellbrucke is over 700 years old, 
yet is still in daily use. The rafters are ornamented with a series of 
paintings called by some "The Dance of Death," although I was 
unable to find any authenticity for this, for they are generally sup- 
posed to represent scenes from the lives of St. Leodegar and Maurice, 
and other events connected with the town. These paintings are 
more valuable as antiquities than works of art. 

There are many interesting walks and drives about Lucerne, but 
the Mecca for all tourists is the Lake. On the picturesque shores of 
this water were enacted the scenes so immortalized by Schi ler in his 
play of "William Tell," but history and romance only serve to add to 
the charms of this delightful body of water. The greatest length, 
from Lucerne to Fluelen is twenty-seven miles, while its broadest 
space is three miles. Excursion boats and pleasure crafts plow its 
waters day and night. It would be impossible to give any idea of the 
vast number of attractions it affords, but I must mention the small 
village of Sisikon, at the mouth of the Riemstadtenthal, at the base of 
the Axen Mountain, where, after a few moments' ascent, you are at 
Tell's chapel. This chapel was erected in 1388, and has recently been 
restored. It is located on the spot where Tell -escaped from the boat 
of Gessler, the Austrian governor, by springing ashore. This was 
originally dedicated in the presence of 114 persons who had been 
personally acquainted with Tell. Bach year a service is held here, 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. I29 

on the Friday after Ascension Day, in commemoration of the national 
hero, and is attended by the peasantry of the forest cantons, who 
come in boats gaily decorated. 

A stay of three days at Lucerne is only an aggravation to the aver- 
age tourist. A month would pass much quicker than a week in the 
average resort. 

While at Lucerne we took the steamer for Vitznau, where we as- 
cended the Rigi-Kulm, by railway. The summit was reached in a 
little less than an hour and a half and here on this mountain top, 5900 
feet high, we had a panoramic view of mountains, lakes and rivers, as 
far as the eye could reach. Opposite us was the Pilatus Mountain, 
said to be the spot where Pontius Pilate killed himself after the cru- 
cifixion. This is also reached by rail. Good hotels are to" be found 
on all mountain summits accessible. One thing I noticed in particu- 
lar, vegetation and grass to the very top. This is something we do 
not get on our own mountains of New Hampshire. It is a grand 
sight to take a field glass and have in full view a snow-clad top with 
the green grass peeping out in patches here and there. 

The Captain was passing out of his hotel one morning, when a 
slightly-built, gentlemanly appearing native bowed very politely and 
said, "O est beau matin.''' 

It so happened the Captain had heard this so often he had become 
familiar with the meaning, which is, "This is a fine morning." 

Quickly turning around, the Captain returned the salutation and 
replied, il Oui, Monsieur; Quo Vadis?" 

I almost gasped f o: breath and immediately taking the Captain by 
the arm and leading him away, asked him what he meant. 

"Why," replied the Captain, "was not my answer correct? " 

"What answer," I asked. 

"Didn't he say it was a fine morning? " 

I nodded assent, and the Captain continued : 

"And didn't I reply plainly, ' Yes sir, where are you going?' " 

At this point, I was obliged to call for something strong to build 
up my nerves, li Quo Vadis " being the Latin for "Whither Goest 
Thou?" but the Captain had taken it for French and had sprung it 
upon the native. 

From Lucerne we took the mountain railway for a four hours' ride 
over the Brunig Pass to Interlaken. The journey was a slow one, but 




J; 

a 

.3 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. T3I 

interesting from the moment we started until we reached our desti- 
nation. The mountain scenery, the valleys dotted with little Swiss 
villages were enchanting. Arriving at Brienz, we took a steamer 
across the Brienz Lake and in an hour found ourselves at Interlaken, 
ready to repair to our rooms, but eager to leave them for the dinner, 
which was ready for vis. 

There is a legend at Interlaken to the effect that when the Garden 
of Eden was removed from the earth by ministering angels, they 
hovered over the Alps with their burden, and were so enchanted at 
the sight of the majestic snow-clad Jungfrau and the two splendid 
azure mountain lakes beneath it, that they placed a part of the gar- 
den at her foot and the other part between the lakes, in order to 
render the beauty of the splendid landscape complete. Interlaken 
was formerly the abode of the monks, but after centuries they went 
away and left the place to the natives, who lived here alone, and the 
outside world knew but little of the beauty and splendor that rested 
beneath these mountain peaks. Wandering tourists finally visited 
here, and soon the name and fame of Interlaken became world wide. 
Here is a scene of continual fashion and gaiety during the summer 
season. 

There is an erroneous idea that in order to reach this spot one has 
to be drawn over high mountains ; such is not the case. I came that 
way to enjoy the entrancing scenery, but railroads and steamboats 
afford several ways in and out of the town. Interlaken is protected 
from the north winds by a mountain rampart 6000 to 7000 feet high , 
as well as against the south storms. To the stranger on his first visit 
here the great Jungfrau, 13,762 feet high, looms up in all its majestic 
splendor, with its snow-clad peaks, the Queen of the Alps, while the 
Harderwand, called the lord of the mountains, looks down upon you. 
This is one of the few with a legend. "Hardermannli" was a monk 
of the monastery ; he loved a nun and eloped with her ; pursued, he 
hastened to the mountain, carrying his beloved in his arms, and there 
they found shelter. 

Interlaken has all the attractions of an inland summer resoit. 
Pretty shops with tempting goods to offer tourists. It might be well 
to say just here that the great majority of these stores are operated by 
fakirs. Extravagant prices are often charged, therefore, if you hap- 
pen to see something you would like to take away, first get the price, 
then make an offer — and be sure you make it low enough, and you 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 133 

will get it. This not only applies to Interlaken but to all these Swiss 
cities and towns, as well as to most of the cities of the continent. 

There are no public buildings here of special attractiveness. In 
winter, or out of season, there is a populalion of only 4000 people at 
Interlaken. The cursaal, or concert hall, is a large building where 
three concerts are given daily. The morning concert is from 7 to 8 
o'clock, and during the selections the visitors sit at tables and drink 
whey. The afternoon concert is from 3 to 4, and the people drink 
beer. The evening concert is from 8:30 to 10:30 when the people 
drink wine. Here and also at Lucerne gambling is practiced on a 
limited or genteel scale. It is not a game of faro, but miniature rac- 
ing horses or railroad trains, and as the evil must exist, the betting is 
small, usually one franc. Interlaken has a large number of first-class 
hotels, and they usually find guests enough to keep them full. 

The Captain took a stroll with me visiting the stores, and at one 
place he had some difficulty in making the attendant understand what 
he wanted, so he began explaining in a very loud tone. I nudged 
him and asked him why he spoke so loud, as the clerk was not deaf. 

" I want him to understand what I say," was the reply. But the 
clerk failed to understand. 

While at Interlaken we took a carriage ride to Lauterbrunnen to 
visit the celebrated Staubbach Falls, which descend from an elevation 
of nearly 1000 feet almost perpendicularly, the precipitation of which 
causes the descending stream to first become thin as a cloud and then 
almost evaporate to smoke or dust-like mist in which the rays of the 
sun appear like a moving rainbow. On our way out we drove to 
Grindelwald, where we had a magnificent view of the glaciers. The 
trip was eventful for its delightful scenery, and as our mountain 
carriage rolled along, we here and there heard the sound of the alpine 
horn, and passed the cottages of the peasant lace-makers, who hur- 
ried out and followed our carriages in their eagerness to sell their 
wares. As the mountain side came in view, here and there on their 
lofty tops, could be seen the homes of the Swiss mountaineers, truly 
a reminder of those stories of Swiss life that the man of the present 
read during his boyhood. 

As our carriages approached the mountain climb, we were met by 
half a dozen boys from 9 to 14 years, some with large bunches of 
freshly cut leaves, or others with large foxtails, and as the horses be- 




Brunig Pass and Railway. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 135 

gan to climb, they began to brush them vigorously to keep off the 
flies, although the day we took our journey, hardly a fly was to be 
seen. Yet in spite of our protest, the boys kept up the brushing, and 
followed us for nearly an hour, and when w T e reached the mountain 
top, they passed their hats around for " some centimes." 

On our return, when about half an hour's ride from Interlaken, 
we came across a herd of goats, possibly 150, which were in a pasture, 
and were being gathered together to be driven home. It appeared to 
us afterward that this herd belonged in Interlaken, and were gathered 
by two or three persons, who passed through the streets early every 
morning blowing a sort of whistle, and as they passed along, the goats 
would come out of their homes and follow. In the evening they are 
returned for the milking. 

The night before our departure from Interlaken, while the Captain 
and myself were enjoying our dinner, a gentleman who sat just beyond 
him endeavored to attract his attention, and when he had done so, 
remarked : 

"Donez-moi le menu, s'il vous plait, monsieur?" 

The Captain looked at him for a moment in surprise, and then, 
turning to me, asked what that rooster wanted. 

I informed the Captain that he had asked him to " Please pass the 
menu." 

"And what," asked the Captain, "is the menu ? " 

When I passed it over to him, the Captain gave me a look of 
scorn, as he replied, " Why didn't you say the gentleman wanted the 
program ? ' ' And as we passed out I was undecided whether to con- 
tinue the journey through Switzerland or hie myself to some convent 
in that location. 



I36 MY FRIEND, ThF CAPTAIN ; 



J\ 



CHAPTER X, 
Adieu to the Land of the Swiss. 

FTER leaving Interlaken we next stopped at Berne, one of 

the oldest, if not the oldest, cities in Switzerland. Berne is 

the capital, yet it is antique, antique from the word go. 

Its main business thoroughfare is a street devoted to market 

purposes, while the stores are on an elevated sidewalk arched in and 

covered over as the buildings project out even to the gutter line. 

The Captain wanted a necktie. He could not be induced to take 
anything but a four-in-hand. In one store we entered, the attendant 
could not speak English, so one of our party undertook to do the 
conversation in German, but at this the Captain protested. 

"What is the matter,'' I asked, "why not make your purchase 
through this party ? ' ' 

" Because," replied the Captain, " I do not propose to get buncoed; 
let him talk English." 

Well, we finally got the tie. 

Berne has a population of between 45,000 and 50,000 people. It 
derived its name from Berne, or Bear, and the attraction of the city is 
the bear pit opened up on a public thoroughfare, and the moment a 
stranger sets foot in town he is either taken or starts for the Bears. 
In fact, everything there is bear. The noted Zeitglocken Tower and 
Bear Chimes always attract a crowd in front of it at 12 o'clock each 
day, when it peals forth, and the bears march round three or four 
times, while the clown strikes the bell. This is an automaton in the 
tower. 

There are a number of interesting places in the city, such as 
several churches, the Federal Council Hall or House of Parliament, a 
very plain and unpretentious structure. There is an historical 
museum, an old town hall, a picture gallery, university, military acad- 
emy, statues, fountains and other attractions. Two days will be 
sufficient for any one to see all that Berne contains, and after a visit 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. J 37 

to such places as Zurich, Lucerne, Interlaken etc., the place seems 
anything but attractive. There is a nice suburb and beautiful parks. 

From Berne we had an interesting ride to Territet-Glion, another 
Swiss paradise, situated at the foot of the Alps and on the shore of 
that majestic Swiss lake, Geneva, called here Lake Leman. This 
body of water is 58 miles long, and, like Lake Lucerne, goes under a 
different name in many sections. Territet is located in the heart of 
the best grape and wine making section of Switzerland. The hotels 
here are the finest in the country and, strange to say in this moun- 
tain region, this is a winter resort, the season commencing September 
1, and continuing to June 1, with a little falling off in December and 
January, while June, July and August are the dullest months of the 
year. The grape cure is the attraction, next to the magnificent situa- 
tion. In fact, this is called the Swiss Riviera. 

Close by, and within sight from the water's edge, lie the towns of 
Montreaux, Vevey and Savoy. Boats ply the lake and excursions are 
numerous. The mountain view is superb, in fact, the town lies at the 
very foot of one of these hills, which rises in all its grandeur and 
forms a background. I think I am nearly right when I say that the 
whole actual width of the town below the mountains sides is not over 
400 feet. Toward the south the eye can glance from summit to sum- 
mit of the lofty peaks, resting now on a group of rocks standing out 
boldly against the horizon, now on the wooded slopes forming the 
pedestal of the mountain-chain which runs from Savoy to the Alps of 
Valais. The seven pointed diadem and its silvery mantle, the Dent- 
du-Midi, dominates the landscape and fascinates the gaze by the un- 
sullied purity of its eternal snows and the majestic grandeur of its 
outlines. At its feet the river Rhone pursues its tranquil course 
through the plain, ere it flows into the lake. In the west, far beyond 
the shining surface of the lake, is to be seen the gentle outline of the 
Jura, which separates two republics. In the east, at the foot of the 
steep slope, clothed in chestnut trees, stands in all its solitary glory, 
the ancient castle of Chillon, the famous prison house of Bonnivard. 
On the north are to be seen the vast acres of grape vines as they are 
terraced on steep slopes, some places mountain sides. 

This is the picture of Territet-Glion. And yet this little town of 
possibly 2000 or less people, has a double track railroad running 
through it, an electric car line, a cable railway to the mountain sum- 
mit and steamboat lines. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. I39 

But there is the old Castle of Chillon, made famous in early days 
by the deviltry enacted within its walls, and famous in later days by 
Lord Byron, in his beautiful tribute to it. The history of the Castle 
of Chillon dates back to the middle ages. During the first years of 
the eighteenth century, Count Thomas I. of Savoy, famous for his 
chivalrous character, thought of converting the castle into a residence 
for himself, and did something in that direction and several changes 
were made. At the beginning of the present century, it became the 
property of the canton. At the time I visited it workmen were en- 
gaged in restoring it and it is proposed to make a national museum 
out of it, when ready. 

" Lake Leman lies by Chillon's walls, 
A thousand feet in depth below, 
Its massy waters meet and flow, 
Thus much the fathom-line was sent 
From Chillon's snow-white battlement, 
Which round about the wave inthralls." 

Thus wrote Byron in his " Prisoner of Chillon." 

In its early years the castle controlled this part of the country. 
Directly opposite it rises a mountain and only one road passes be- 
tween the castle and the mountain, while the other side of the castle 
is bounded by the lake. The old order of things was enforced, those 
who pass must pay tribute. In 1536 when the cantons Vaud and 
Geneva obtained their independence, the Castle of Chillon resisted 
for a long time, but it was eventually captured by the Bernese, aided 
by a flotilla from Geneva. Bonnivard and the other captives obtained 
their liberty. Bonnivard was prior of St. Victor and endeavored to 
free the Genoese from the tyranny of Charles V. of Savoy, so that he 
became very obnoxious to that monach, who had him seized and con- 
fined in the castle, where he lay for six years in a dungeon. The 
pillar to which he was chained and the ring to which he was fastened 
still stands, while the floor around it is much worn. Byron beauti- 
fully describes the effect of his imprisonment in his ' ' Prisoner of 
Chillon." 

" It might be months, or years or days — 
I kept no count, I took no note — 
I had no hope my eyes to raise, 
And clear them of their dreary mote ; 
At last men came to set me free, 
I asked not why, I recked net where, 
It was at length the same to me, 
Fettered or fetterless to be, 
I learned to love despair. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 14J 

And thus when they appeared at Jast, 
And all my bonds aside were cast, 
These heavy walls to me had grown 
A hermitage and all mine own, 
And half I felt as they were come 
To tear me from a second home. 
With spiders I had friendship made 
And watched them in their sullen trade, 
Had seen the mice by moonlight play. 
And why should I feel less than they ? 
We were all inmates of one place, 
And I, the monarch of each race, 
Had power to kill, yet strange to tell, 
In quiet we had learned to dwell. 
My very chains and I grew friends. 
So much a long communion tends 
To make us what we are ; even I 
Regained my freedom with a sigh." 

It seems that Byron was ignorant of the history of Bonnivard 
when he wrote the "Prisoner of Chillon." Bonnivard had no 
brother and none died in the castle. The real Bonnivard was a 
wealthy young man, son of the Lord of Lome, and he inherited the 
rich priory of St. Victor from his uncle when he was only sixteen 
years old. This property lying close to Geneva he espoused that 
city's quarrel with the Duke of Savoy and was confined in prison for 
two years. After his release from imprisonment he again took up 
arms to recover his lost, possessions and, with the aid of Geneva, did 
so, and afterward entered the service of that city. It was after this 
that he was again captured and imprisoned for six years in the Castle 
of Chillon. He died at the advanced age of seventy-five years. 

The Castle of Chillon dates from the ninth century. In 830 Louis 
le Debonnaire imprisoned the Abbe Wala, who had instigated his sons 
to rebellion, in a castle in this section that answers the description of 
this place. Over the castellan's entrance are the following words in- 
scribed there by the Bernese in 1643 : " Gott der Herr segne den 
Einund Ansgang," which translated reads, " God bless all who come 
in and go out." 

On the pillars of the prison and floor of the castles are to be 
seen the names of many noted men cut in this soft stone by them- 
selves during visits here. I was surprised at the distinctness of some. 
First there was Lord Byron's, then Eugene Sue, Victor Hugo, George 
Sand, Shelley and Dumas. 

I called the attention of the Captain to these names, and told him 
they were done by the hands of these famous men. He looked on 




u 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 143 

for a moment and then, drawing his penknife, astonished me by start- 
ing in to cut on a smooth place on the pillar. 

" What are you doing? " I asked. 

" Going to carve my name," was the reply. 

When I told him it was against the rules and punishable by a fine, 
he asked how much. 

" Ten francs," I answered. 

" Ten francs," he replied, " why, that is only two dollars. It is 
the cheapest advertisement the Emerson Shoe ever had. ' ' 

But by a determined effort I got him away. 

From Territet-Glion, a pleasant ride of about one and one half 
hours by rail brought us to our next stopping place, Martigny, where 
we caught a glimpse of many old monasteries, some built five, some 
six, and some seven hundred years ago. Martigny is the starting 
place for Chamounix and Mont Blanc. The trip is made by dili- 
gences over the Tete-Noire pass, and takes about ten hours. Leav- 
ing Martigny at 7:30 a. m., the road leads in a zigzag direction to an 
elevation of nearly four thousand feet. In fact, it is a ride across the 
Alps. 

It was while we were enjoying the grand scenery in ail directions 
that I asked the Captain if he realized we were crossing the Alps — the 
same Alps crossed by the great Napoleon and made a part of his fa- 
mous history. The Captain did not enthuse much ; he quietly drew 
from his vest pocket the only remaining cigar he managed to land on 
that side of the water and, after lighting it, remarked, " Well, suppose 
Napoleon did cross here. That was years and years ago, but today, I 
am crossing." 

I leaned back in my carriage and could hardly decide whether I 
would quietly drop off the mountain side or proceed on the journey. 

With a two-hour rest on the mountain summit, we proceeded and 
arrived at Chamounix at 5:30 p. m., with the snow-clad top of Mont 
Blanc looming up in the rear of our hotel and the Glacier des Bossons 
in full view. It was a gorgeous sunset, and an equally gorgeous sun- 
rise the following morning, and the sight presented was one I will 
never forget. At 9 o'clock the morning after our arrival we straddled 
mules and wended our way to the glacier and up the side of Mont 
Blanc. The journey was one long to be remembered. I am glad I 
made the trip, but I would not do it again for many a hundred dol- 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. ' 145 

lar bill. We were landed directly on the glacier, and made a tour of 
the ice grotto constructed beneath it. 

Before starting I asked the Captain if he intended to go up on a 
mule. He replied that such was his intention, but I doubt if he would 
do it again if he was assured a good and true deed of the whole of 
Switzerland. The mule that was selected for the Captain drew a line 
on the flies, and insisted on occasional gymnastics that made the Cap- 
tain wish he was back at his hotel in safety. 

It is an old saying, " See Naples and die, " but I believe this was 
a mistake. It should have been, "See the Alps ! Away to the 
moutains, and live long. " Chamounix is a small mountain village 
lying at the foot of Mont Blanc and is the shrine sought by all pil- 
grims to this grand mountain. It lies in France and near the Switzer- 
land frontier, yet Chamounix is always associated with Switzerland 
and the Alps scenery in guide books. Of course, Mont Blanc is the 
chief attraction, while the scenery in all directions is superb. 

Just here I might say that the first to ascend this mountain were 
Jacques Balmat and Dr. Paccard, who climbed to the top on the 8th 
of August, 1786. There is a little history in connection with these 
two men. Balmat was born January 19, 1762, in the hamlet of 
Pelorins in the vicinity of the glacier of the same name. His house 
is still standing. He was only twenty four years old, and the father 
of a family, when De Saussure offered a reward for the discovery of a 
route to the summit of Mont Blanc. Balmat, who had a love for the 
mountains, determined to find the route. He tried several ways 
across the Glacier des Bois and failed, then across the Glacier des 
Bossons and spent a night there in the snow, but was obliged to re- 
turn the next day on account of a fog. Then he ventured by the 
Rochers Rouges, and climbed still higher, but was obliged to return a 
part of the way, where he spent the night on the icy mountain, but 
the next morning was clear and beautiful, and he felt sure he had 
discovered the route, and immediately returned to Dr. Paccard and 
communicated to him the news. 

So, on Monday, August 7, these two men left Chamounix, and the 
following day at two o'clock in the afternoon they reached the right 
shoulder of Mont Blanc, the extreme point obtained by Balmat in his 
former venture. Dr. Paccard was exhausted, and declined to proceed 
further, so Balmat started on alone, until he found he had reached 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 147 

the summit. The victory was won. Mont Blanc was conquered. 
Balmat returned to his companion and, after rousing him, chafed his 
numb limbs and induced him to start on the way, and at six o'clock 
in the evening the top was reached. A market woman at Chamou- 
nix saw two little specks and spread the news, and the villagers 
turned out to witness the scene. Balmat and Paccard remained thirty- 
five minutes on the summit, and then started downward. At eleven 
o'clock they regained their former camping place where they re- 
mained over night and the next morning descended to Chamouuix, 
where they were met and feted by the people. Balmat received a 
present and diploma from the King of Sardinia, and a subscription 
was opened for him, and on August 13 he visited De Saussure, who 
received him with joy, and gave him the promised reward. In 1787 
Horace De Saussure made the ascent. So much for the discovery. 
Since then the mountain has been scaled by many ; many lives have 
been lost, among them two Americans, John Randall, father of John 
C. Randall of John H. Pray & Sons Co., Boston, and Dr. Bean. 

Leaving Chamounix by diligence we journeyed to Cluses where we 
took the train to Geneva. The trip is made in about six hours. It 
was while we were making this journey that we floated our American 
flags and were met by a party of Frenchmen who eyed the Captain as 
he waved his umbrella with flag attached, and we could hear their 
only remark. It was "Yankee Doodles," and as they passed the 
Captain arose in his seat and waved his flag and shouted back, "Yes, 
we're Yankee Doodles, and don't you forget it." A few miles fur- 
ther on, as we were making a sharp wind around a mountain side, we 
noticed a carriage coming in the opposite direction, and as it ap- 
proached we discerned that it contained four or five ladies and gen- 
tlemen. " Out with your flags," shouted the Captain, and out they 
came, and no sooner did the approaching party see " Old Glory " than 
they stood up and shouted, " Three cheers for Uncle Sam." We had 
encountered a party of our own country people on our way from 
Mont Blanc. 

While not the largest city in Switzerland, Geneva is the gayest, 
and like Zurich and Lucerne, is a beautiful resort during the season. 
It has a population of about 80,000 people, and is grandly located on 
the lake bearing its name. 

I was strolling along the Quai, the main business street, with the 
Captain, and we chanced to enter a store where the attendant spoke 










The Captain and His Mule. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 149 

very little English. Suddenly the Captain asked him if he would be 
so kind as to tell him under what name they called their money in 
Italy. 

' ' L,iras, ' ' was the answer. 

" Come out of here," said the Captain, grabbing me by the arm, 
and as I glanced at him I saw his face was a deep red. 

" What is the matter? " I asked. 

" That chump called us liars, it's either get out quick or I lick 
him," replied the Captain. In order to have peace and harmony, I 
got out. 

Geneva is distinctly French, not only in its manners and customs, 
but its language. Yet it is cosmopolitan, and has a society to render 
the sojourn of American and English tourists pleasant. There are a 
number of attractive monuments and fountains, and bridges span the 
course that runs from the lake in swift currents and is utilized for its 
power. It is a wonderful waterway. Here is the Hotel de Ville or 
Town Hall, where the Arbitration Court on the Alabama claims sat in 
1872. The St. Peters Cathedral, Protestant, built in 1024 in the Ro- 
manesque style, where Calvin once preached, and containing his chair, 
which is in a good state of preservation. By the way, this was Cal- 
vin's stronghold. He came here in 1536 and died here in 1564, and was 
buried in the cemetery of Plainpalais. There are several other inter- 
esting churches and public buildings, including an University with 
old manuscripts, many of Calvin's. A fine palm garden and parks 
lend attraction to the visitor. 

During the evenings, in the summer seasons, the sidewalks in 
front of cafes are crowded, and bands and orchestras play from 8:30 
to 1 1 o'clock. Sunday is no exception for these occasions. Geneva, 
like all other places, has its wickedness with its goodness. 

The morning of our departure the Captain hailed me in the hotel 
corridor, and asked me where our next destination was. 

"To Paris, " I replied, " We go to Paris today.'* 

" Three cheers for Paris ! " shouted the Captain. 

" What are you cheering for? " I asked. 

"Wait until we get there and I will let you know," was the only 
response I could get from him. 

And the train started, bearing two Yankees, for Paris. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 15 1 



CHAPTER XL 

How tc Do Paris. 

. . 'f m \ O YOU see those bright lights in the distance ? " I asked the 
I J Captain, as we were speeding along in the cars, late at 

JS/ night. 

" Yes," was his reply, as he gazed out of the window in 
the direction indicated. 

" That is Paris," I answered. 

The Captain imme Hately got up and took off his traveling cap, 
packed it in his grip, dusted his coat and put on his hat. He was in 
a nervous state. 

In ten minutes we rolled into the station and alighted from the 
train. Our baggage was passed, and I hailed a cab to convey us to 
our hotel. The moment the Captain took his seat, he shouted : 

' ' Say, driver ! ' ' 

I stopped him short and told him the man did not know what he 
said, that he must address him as cocker. 

" Cocker " called the Captain. 

" Qui, monsieur,' 1 '' was the reply. 

' ' How long will it take you to drive us to the Moulin Rouge ? 
shouted the Captain. 

I nearly fainted. 

It was with some difficulty I gave my companion to understand 
that the hour was late and we had come a long distance and must go 
to our hotel and rest, but after a bit of diplomacy on my part the 
Captain succumbed and we were soon settled in our hotel. 

' ' You wanted to know why I gave three cheers for Paris when we 
started," he said, as we were taking a light lunch. "Well, it was 
the prospects of a view of the Moulin Rouge, and you have spoiled 
the whole show." 

I admitted my supposed error, but as we had over two weeks in 
the gay metropolis, I told him he would have ample opportunity to 
see Paris as she was. 



I5 2 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

I am not going to attempt to give any historical data about Paris. 
If I did this chapter would be continued until the end of the book. 
With a population of over 2,500,000, Paris was the second largest city 
in the world, but that distinction now goes to Greater New York who 
will give London such a tussle for first place that it will be a hotter 
contest than an American league game of baseball. 

The grand system of boulevards that cross the city are the finest 
in the world, and neither New York or any other American city will 
ever be able to compete with Paris in this direction. The beauty of 
the avenues lies in their distance and straightness ; both sides are 
lined with trees and they are paved with either wood or asphalt, are 
always clean, and carriages driving over them make but little noise. 
At night the streets are finely lighted with both gas and electricity— 
in fact, Paris is the best lighted city in the world. Standing in the 
Place de la Opera of an evening and viewing the Boulevard des 
Italiens, Avenue de la Opera, Rue de la Paix and the Boulevard des 
Capucines, a sight is presented equal to that of fairyland. 

Paris is, or rather was, full of Americans while I was there, during 
the month of August. They thronged the streets, filled the stores 
and were to be found in all the public places. I do not know what 
Paris shopkeepers would do if the American exodus ceased. 

The average tourist who first visits Paris, naturally wants to see the 
most interesting places at a glance, therefore I will describe, as briefly 
as possible, such that could be seen in a stay of from one to two 
weeks. 

First, let us take the churches. Of course everybody has heard of 
the Notre Dame and the Madeleine. They are two of the most noted 
churches in the world. The Notre Dame is the cathedral of the Arch- 
bishopric of Paris, and was founded in 11 63 on the very site of a 
church built in the fourth century. The front is surmounted by two 
square towers and the carvings in the right portal represent the Last 
Judgment, while the relief on the left portal represents the Burial of 
the Virgin. Immediately above these portals is the Galerie des Rois, 
a series of niches containing statues of twenty-eight French kings. 
The church contains some fine ancient stained glass windows well 
worth inspection. The house will hold 20,000 persons. The choir 
or burial chapel which surrounds the main altar contains monuments 
to noted archbishops of Paris, who had been famous in their day. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 153 

The wood carvings are especially worth examining. In the treasury 
is to be found a vast collection of solid gold and silver ornaments, 
used on altars, and many set in precious stones of priceless value. 
These have been collected for ages, and were presents from kings and 
queens. Here is also to be seen what is supposed to be fragments of 
the crown of thorns and the true cross as well as a nail from the latter, 
also many ecclesiastical vestments embroidered in gold and silver and 
set with precious stones. Large silver busts of St. Denis and St. Louis 
are shown, as well as the blood-stained garments of Archbishop Dar- 
boy, who was murdered by the Commune. During the first revolu- 
tion the Notre Dame was condemned to destruction, but the decree 
was rescinded, the sculptures only being demolished. It was at this 
time converted into a "Temple of Reason," but Napoleon I. restored 
it to its original purpose in 1802. In the Commune of 1871 it was 
used as a military depot and afterwards an attempt was made to burn 
it, but fortunately without success. 

In leaving the church I noticed two contribution boxes posted in 
one of the aisles. The first was labeled ' ' For Souls in Purgatory, ' ' 
while the other bore a card " For the tooth of St. Peter." The Cap- 
tain insisted in dropping ten centimes in each box. 

The Madeleine, or Church of St. Mary Magdalene, was started in 
1764 and the ceremonies of laying the foundation were by Louis XV. 
The bui ding was not completed until 1842, or 78 years after it was 
commenced. This was caused by the interruptions made by wars and 
changes of government during that period. The cost of the building 
was $2,600,000. The structure is a most imposing one, and the fron^ 
is supported by great columns. Over the front the carvings represent 
the Last Judgment, while the two bronze doors are adorned with 
groups illustrating the Ten Commandments. There are no stained 
glass nor side windows in the Madeleine, it is a church without win- 
dows, but, in place, six niches are built on each side, containing life 
size statues of the saints. The music h£re is very fine, especially Sun- 
day morning. During the civil war which followed the siege of Paris, 
the Madeleine was in considerable danger. A barricade defended by 
cannon was erected by the insurgents across the Rue Royale, immedi- 
ately in front of the church, and in the conflict between the troops of 
the Republic and the Commune, many houses were destroyed. When 
the rebels were finally overcome, hundreds sought refuge in the 
Madeleine and were killed on the spot. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 155 

The morning after our arrival in Paris, I came down to the read- 
ing room of our hotel, and found the Captain busily looking over the 
contents of a French morning paper and humming in rather a loud 
tone, " The Watch on the Rhine," while near by sat half a dozen an- 
gry looking Frenchmen, who nervously glanced at their papers and 
then at the Captain. I immediately took in the situation, and going 
up to my friend quietly asked him what he was doing, and if he did 
not notice that he was attracting attention. 

" What's the matter with me ? " asked the Captain. 

" Why, that tune you are humming," I replied. 

"Well, what of it? " came the question. 

" It is the ' Watch on the Rhine,' the German national tune, and 
those people do not like it," I replied. *' Don't you know there is a 
hatred between the French and Germans? " 

"Was that the 'Watch on the Rhine?'" asked the Captain, 
" why I thought it was ' The Marseilles,' and I was simply humming 
it to please these people." 

I asked the Captain out to have a cigar, in order to get him away. 

A drive, the most beautiful drive in the world, is to be found over 
the Champs Elysees and through the Bois de Boulogne. The Champs 
Elysees starts in at the Place de la Concorde, the largest and finest 
square in Paris. Yes, the same may be said of this as of the above 
thoroughfare, the finest square in the world. The Place de la Con- 
corde is 1 200 by 700 feet, and at night presents a dazzling sight. 

Here also is erected the Obelisk of Luxor, and this site has a tragic 
history. It was during the Reign of Terror, in 1793, that a guillotine 
was erected on this spot, and its first victims were Louis XVI. and 
Marie Antoinette. Between January of that year and May 1795, up- 
ward of 2000 persons were beheaded here. 

From the center of this place the Champs Elysees leads to the 
Arc de Triomphe, a magnificent avenue lined with elegant residences 
including the Palais de 1' Elysees, erected in 17 18, and now the official 
residence of the President of the Republic. The avenue is lined on 
both sides with trees and promenades. The Arc de Triomphe is the 
largest triumphal arch in existence. It was begun by Napoleon 
I. in 1806, and completed in 1836 by Louis Philippe. The arch is 67 
feet high and 46 feet wide, while the whole structure is 160 feet high 
and 146 feet wide and 72 feet deep. It cost upward of $2, 000,000. 




53 

0) 

a 

8 

XI 

u 



OR, tWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 157 

From the arc lead twelve beautiful avenues, the chief of which is the 
Bois de Boulogne. This section of the city is a wooded one, and 
covers hundreds of acres, with roads and paths innumerable. 

On the other side of the Seine, in the rear of the Notre Dame, is 
the morgue, open for inspection daily. Here are displayed on mar- 
ble slabs the dead bodies of those found in the river and other places, 
who are not known. These slabs are placed in front of a glass parti- 
tion, where the public can view the dead, and if possible recognize 
who they are. The clothes in which they are found are displayed 
with them. By a system of refrigeration it is said that these bodies 
can be kept for three months. 

The Jardin des Plantes, or Palm Garden, lies a little distance be- 
yond the morgue. Here is a good zoological show, but a poor plant 
display, when some of the other gardens I have visited are con- 
sidered. 

Near the foot of the Rue de la Faix, which starts in next to the 
Avenue de la Opera, opposite the Opera House, is the Place Vendome, 
where stands the Column Vendome, erected in 1806 by Napoleon I. to 
commemorate his victories over the Russians and Austrians. The col- 
umn is of masonry encrusted with bronze plates, and is 142 feet high 
and 13 feet in diameter. 

While located at our hotel in Paris, the Captain noticed a very 
handsome clock in the reading room and inquired of the manager 
where it came from. 

" Right here in Paris," was the reply. " I bought it in this city." 

Nothing further was said until a few days after, when the Captain 
again accosted the manager and remarked to him that he understood 
him to say the clock in question was bought in Paris. 

" So it was," he replied. 

" Well, that is very strange," remarked the Captain, "for I have 
looked your directory over to find the fellow who made it, but his 
name does not appear. ' ' 

" I do not understand how you could have looked for his name," 
was the reply, " when I did not tell you what it was." 

" His name," said the Captain, "can't I read ? " There it is right 
on the face of the clock, ' lempus Fugit, Paris, France.'' " 

And as I was just approaching the Captain and heard the conver- 
sation, I made a bee line for the smoking room. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 159 

A place that will undoubtedly interest an American tourist in Paris 
is the Catacombs. Admission can usually be obtained by application 
to the Prefect of the Seine, at the Hotel de Ville or city hall. I had 
no difficulty in securing a permit. The Catacombs are open for the 
inspection of ticket holders the first and third Saturdays of each 
month. This burial place, or rather resting place for the bones of the 
departed, is located on the left bank of the river, and covers an area 
almost the length of the city. It has about sixty entrances. For- 
merly this was a subterranean quarry, and was worked as far back as 
the Roman period. Upon entering the Catacombs each visitor must 
carry a torch, which costs 50 centimes (10 cents) at the entrance, and 
included in this is a guard of cardboard to protect the clothing from 
the melting wax. It takes about one hour to make the tour. The 
quarries were first used for Catacombs in 1 786, and during the French 
Revolution and Reign of Terror immense numbers of bodies and 
bones were thrown in these cavities in a confused state, and remained 
so until 1810 when a regular system was organized for the arrange- 
ment and disposition of their resting places. 

Of course every one going to Paris wants to visit and ascend the 
Eiffel Tower, which was the attraction of the last Paris exposition, 
and was what suggested our World's Fair Ferris Wheel. The Eiffel 
Tower is located on a portion of the 1889 exhibition ground, close by 
the Seine and opposite the Trocadero. This enormous structure is 
the loftiest monument in the world, being 984 feet high, or nearly 
twice as high as the Washington monument at our national capital, 
which is 555 feet. It is indeed an interesting specimen of what can 
be accomplished in accurate skill in design and modern engineering. 
Owing to an optical delusion the tower appears at close range much 
lower than it really is. The foundation was sunk forty-six feet, and 
the base of the structure covers two and one-half acres, consisting 
of a graceful framework of iron. The tower has three landing places 
or platforms. The first is 190 feet high, and has an area of 5860 
square yards. The second is 380 feet high, and covers an area of 32 
square yards, while the third is 904 feet high, and will hold 8co peo- 
ple at one time. On a clear day there is a view of ninety miles in 
length. An elevator makes the trips up and down at a cost of twenty 
cents for first platform, forty cents for second and eighty cents for 
third platform. On Sundays and fete days the price is just one-half. 




-53 

u 

J" 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. l6l 

Restaurants, cafe's, stores and a theatre are to be seen on the different 
landings. 

The Captain was in the smoking room of our hotel one evening, 
when I introduced him to a gentleman with whom I was conversing, 
and whom I had met on several occasions while in Paris. 

" I am glad to meet you, Captain," was the response, "I have 
observed you several times, and supposed you were an English visitor 
here." 

" What's that ? " said the Captain. 

" I took you for an Englishman," was the reply. 

" Well, sir," replied the Captain, "lam not an Englishman. I 
am an American, sir — an American ; you might call me a Yankee." 

The party in question afterward referred to the Captain as a 
" real live Yankee." 

By the way, the American tourist will find some queer things to 
understand on his first visit to Paris. I,et us take for example the 
theatre or opera. If you secure your seats in advance, that is, as late 
as 5 p. m. the day of the performance, and even go to the box office 
to buy them, there is an extra charge of two francs (forty cents) each, 
and when your ticket is handed you, you pay ten centimes (two cents) 
for stamping it. In the ordinary theatre a reserved seat is not a re- 
served seat. By this I mean you do not know what you are going to 
have until you arrive at the house, when you pass to the center corri- 
dor, where behind a long desk-like enclosure, sit three or four typical 
Frenchmen ; sometimes they are without hats and at other times they 
wear tall silk head coverings. Your tickets are passed over to them, 
and they return you others, which practically give you your seats. If 
you have more than one they are liable to be separated. If a certain 
row contains twenty -four seats, twenty-four unnumbered tickets are 
sold, and as the audience pass in, the numbers are given them, so 
that first comers usually fare the best. 

Passing in, you are met by old women ushers. When I say old 
women, I mean it in every sense, as their ages seem to be from forty- 
five to sixty -five with a number who looked as if they might be seven- 
ty-five, and they were homely dames at that. It seems to me that 
good-looking young women might be desirable in this position, but 
why the Parisians inflict those old crones on their audiences is more 
than I can understand. 



1 62 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

If you want a program, you must pay for it, and in one instance 
the usher forced a little stool under my feet, much against my wishes, 
and then demanded pay for it. Before the curtain rises, instead of 
the usual ring of the bell, there is a series of hard knocks behind the 
curtain, that might be done by a mallet. This is followed by three, 
two and one knocks, when the curtain rises. At the Chatelet Theatre, 
where spectacular shows are given, "Michel Strogroff " was the 
attraction. Here, at intermission, men wearing long aprons, like 
shop hands, passed throngh the audience selling oranges. Imagine 
an American theatre audience eating oranges between the acts, and 
this in August ! 

One noon arriving at my hotel a little late for lunch, I observed 
the Captain was in rather a nervous condition, and he asked me if I 
would be kind enough to make my stay in the dining room as short 
as possible, as he wanted to see me ; therefore, taking a quick lunch, 
I returned to the Captain, and he asked me if I would like to take a 
carriage and go out to see "Complet." 

" Go out where ? " I asked. 

" Complete was the reply, " I have been trying to get there for 
the last ten days. There are cars and buses that go out there, but 
each time I have endeavored to board one the driver or conductor 
has informed me that he had all the passengers the law would allow ; 
therefore, I have not been able to get out to the place, and as I 
observe the name on so many cars and buses, it must be an interest- 
ing place to visit. 

When I informed the Captain the word "Complet" on a car or 
bus meant that it was full, and no more passengers would be allowed, 
he grew red in the face and actually accused me of trying to evade 
the visit with him, and the last I saw of him, he was endeavoring to 
make a hack driver understand he wanted to go to "Complet." 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 163 



CHAPTER XIL 
Still Doing Paris, 

BY WAY of explanation, I will say that it is the custom in Paris 
to welcome you with a "good-day" and leave you with a 
"good-by" in the stores you visit. The Captain noticed 
this, and one day asked me if I knew the French for ' ' good- 
by." I told him it was an revoir, and gave it no further thought un- 
til we were leaving a store where we had been making some slight 
purchases, when I was amazed by the Captain lifting his hat as we 
departed, and saying, " Mon Dieu, Monsieur." 

' ' What did you say that for ? " I asked. 

" I bade him good-by," replied the Captain. 

' ' Do you know what you said to him ? " I again asked. 

" Yes, good-by," was the response. 

" No, your remark was far different," I returned. "You said, 
' Mon Dieu, ' that is French for ' My God. ' " 

The Captain said he would take his French lessons in the future 
from some one who understood the language, and not from me. 

There is one thing that attracted my attention and that is the un- 
mannerly way in which Europeans gaze at an American, particularly 
in hotels, and more especially in the dining rooms. I do not think 
this practice is as noticeable in Paris as it is in Germany and Switzer- 
land. I have seen the natives, while at table, lean on their elbows 
and gaze for fully five minutes at a particular person. We would call 
this anything but polite, but to cap the climax is to observe them 
pick their teeth while so engaged, and use their knives to convey food 
to their mouths. 

Paris has two fine art galleries, the Louvre and the Luxembourg. 
The Louvre is without doubt one of the most famous in the world. 
The foundation was laid in 1541, but this building was not wholly 
completed until 1852, under Napoleon III. It formed a part of the 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 165 

Palace of the Tuileries. The lower floor is given up to sculptures, 
both ancient and modern, and contains many statues of celebrity, in- 
cluding, I might add, the Venus of Milo, which was found by a 
peasant in the island of Melos, now Milo, in 1820, and sold to the 
French government for 6000 francs or $1200. Several museums of an 
interesting character are distributed in different salons, and contain 
many ancient and valuable curiosities. The picture galleries contain 
about 3000 select works, and are distributed in about twenty-five 
salons. Here are to be found masterpieces of Rubens, Rembrandt, 
Van Dyck, and many other notable masters. It would be impossible 
to do them justice in a description in these pages. 

The Luxembourg collection is displayed in the old Luxembourg 
Palace, which was erected by Marie de Medicis, widow of Henry IV., 
in 1615, and is now the seat of the French Senate. This palace con- 
tinued to be a royal residence down to the Revolution, and its last 
occupant, the Count of Provence, afterwards Louis XVIII., left it in 
June, 1 79 1. Part of this palace is open for inspection, except on Sun- 
days, and will well repay a visit. The gallery, which occupies a 
ground floor, is in the rear of the palace, and contains only works of 
living artists. The collection is not very large, yet it is an interest- 
ing one and is of a less religious character than many of the collec- 
tions shown in the old galleries, and is quite a relief from the regular 
exhibits one sees in all parts of Europe. 

The most beautiful open spot in all Paris is the Garden of the 
Tuileries, famous the world over for its connection with the Palace of 
the Tuileries, the adored home of kings and emperors. Part of the 
garden is fenced in, and only open at certain hours. Here are to be 
found a large number of marble statues and groups, mostly the works 
of modern sculptors. A military band gives concerts in the gardens 
daily, with the exceptions of Mondays and Fridays, from 5 to 6 p. m. 

On the left bank of the Seine, and occupying about thirty acres of 
ground, stands the Hotel des Invalides, or what we might call the 
soldiers' home. This was founded in 1670 by Louis XIV. Soldiers 
who have been disabled by wounds or who have given thirty years to 
the service of their country, are admitted here. The building was 
originally intended to accommodate about 5000 persons, but the aver- 
age number of dwellers here is not over 400, as most of the old veter- 
ans prefer to take their pensions and live independently. The front 



1 66 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

of the building faces a large enclosure, fenced around, and in which is 
quite a display of cannon. Entering the building through an arched 
doorway one finds himself in the Cour d' Honneur, enclosed by 
arcades under the main building, and adorned by a series of mas- 
sive paintings on the sides of the building, mostly representing scenes 
in the lives of Charlemagne, St.. Louis, Louis XIV. and Napoleon I. 
In the building are to be found several military museums, open on 
certain days. 

Passing though the arcade on the left as you enter, and through a 
passageway, the tourist is brought before one of the most interesting 
places in all France — the tomb of Napoleon I. The interior of the 
building is circular and finished in white marble with a magnificent 
dome surmounting it. The tomb is situated directly beneath the 
dome in an open circular crypt, twenty feet in depth and thirty-six 
feet in diameter. The walls are of polished granite adorned with ten 
marble reliefs, and there are twelve colossal statues of Victories, while 
six trophies, consisting of sixty battle flags gives enchantment to the 
last resting place of this great soldier. As I leaned over the marble 
balustrade, the eloquent words of Col. Robert G. Ingersollin his " At 
the Tomb of Napoleon," passed through my mind. Entering this 
building at the right is the tomb of Joseph Bonaparte, once King of 
Spain, and at the left is that of Jerome Bonaparte, once King of West- 
phalia. In the rear is a chapel, not opened to the public, where serv- 
ices are held on the anniversary of his death. Opposite the entrance 
to the chapel, from the tomb building is the entrance to the tomb, 
which is twenty feet below the audience balustrade, and over the door 
of this entrance are these words : "Je desire que mes cendres 
reposent sur les bords de la Seine, au milieu de ce peuple Francaise 
quej'ai tant aime," which translated reads, " I desire that my ashes 
may rest on the banks of the Seine, in the midst of the French peo- 
ple, whom I have so well loved." 

The Captain was very much impressed with this place, and while 
busily engaged in doing the grounds noticed several gentlemen wear- 
ing a red ribbon in their left buttonholes. 

" Do you know what that signifies?" he asked. 

' ' I told him they were members of the Legion of Honor, and 
thought nothing more of the matter until a day or two after, when we 
were on our way down the Boulevard des Italiens, and the Captain 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 1 67 

stopped before a jewelry store, in which was displayed a variety of 
decorations. 

" I see something I have been looking for," said the Captain, as 
he entered the store and I followed. 

When the attendant appeared the Captain pointed to a cross of the 
Legion of Honor, and asked the price. 

" Fifty francs," was the reply. 

" I'll take it," said the Captain as he deposited that amount on 
the counter. 

" What did you buy that for ? " I asked, as we left the store. 

" It's the Legion of Honor," he replied. 

" But what are you going to do with it? " I again asked. 

" Wear it," said the Captain. 

" But in order to wear it you must be decorated for some valiant 
deed, and this is done by the President of France," I replied. 

"That's all right as far as you have got it," was the reply, "but I 
have carried my gun and swung my sword on many a bloody battle- 
field in the war for the Union, and I propose to decorate myself." 

And then the Captain lit a cigar that cost him one franc fifty 
centimes, while I walked by his side a much meeker man than was 
Moses himself. 

The Palais Royal — it does not look much like a palace in these 
last days of the nineteenth century — is said to be an accurate reflex 
of the history of Paris for two and a half centuries. This historic 
building was erected by Cardinal Richelieu in 1629, and was originally 
called the Palais Cardinal. Anne of Austria, with her two sons, Louis 
XIV. and Philip of Orleans, occupied it after the cardinal's death. 
Since her day it has been known by its present name. On ascending 
the throne Louis XIV. presented the palace to his younger brother, 
and after Philip's death two generations of the Orleans family occu- 
pied it as a residence ; through them it was brought in bad repute. 
Having exhausted his means the grandson of Philip built a series of 
arcades or stores around the courtyard, and let them to shopkeepers. 
They are occupied for that purpose to this day, and a journey around 
among these stores must be nearly one mile in length. I toured this 
section. It is indeed interesting, as fully or e-half of the stores are for 
the sale of jewelry, from the bogus to the finest made goods. 

Under the consulate of Napoleon I. the palace was called the 
galite, and later Palais du Tribunat, but at the restoration the 





Tomb of Napoleon, Hotel des Invalides, Paris, 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 1 69 

palace again reverted to the Orleans family, and Louis Philippe occu- 
pied it until 1830. In the revolution of 1848 the mob wrecked the 
royal apartments and destroyed the greater part of the pictures. 
From then until the time of Napoleon III. the palace was called 
Palais National, but when he became emperor, Napoleon restored its 
present name. In 1871 the Communists repeated the raid of 1848 on 
the royal apartments, but luckily most of the works of value had been 
removed. The south wing was destroyed by fire, but has since been 
restored. 

On the highest ground in Paris, on the left bank of the Seine, is a 
most imposing structure built in the form of a Greek cross, known as 
the Pantheon. The foundation was laid in 1764 by Louis XV. It is 
375 feet long by 275 feet wide, with a dome 272 feet high. The 
Pantheon was originally built for a church, and was used for that 
purpose for many years, but is now a monument of architecture of 
over a century gone by. The interior is simple and exceedingly bare, 
the walls are ornamented with mammoth paintings on canvas, that 
are fastened to the walls by means of white lead. They represent 
scenes of an historic nature. Above these are elaborate friezes in oil, 
artistic in design. In the basement are the old burial vaults, where 
formerly were buried Voltaire, Marat, Mirabeau and others, but their 
bodies were afterwards removed. The latest addition here is that of 
the remains of Sadi Carnot, the late President of the Republic, who 
was assassinated in 1894. The Pantheon was in the hands of the 
Commune for two days in May, 1871, and Milliere, one of the princi- 
pal leaders, was shot dead upon the front steps. 

Paris is full of Americans — I believe I made this statement once 
before. It is rather interesting to notice to what degree they will go 
in sight-seeing over here — what places they will visit, not only in 
Paris, but in all their European travels, that they would not think of 
visiting at home. There are many attractions of a more interesting 
nature right at their own doors, which they have never seen, or would 
never think of going to see. Verily, the Yankee is a curious bird, 
almost as much so as his English cousin. 

Paris is full of ' ' guides. ' ' One cannot step fifty feet from his 
hotel but he is spotted and asked if he wants to ' ' see the sights. ' ' In 
most cases these guides will tell you they are American citizens, or 
lived in New York. They appeal to you as Americans. But beware 



170 



MY FRIKND, THK CAPTAIN 



of them ; they are only " coppers "so to speak. They will charge 
you a fee for taking you around, and receive a big commission on 
whatever you buy, and you will pay double for everything you pur- 
chase under their direction. Here is a copy of a card one of them 
passed to me while I was there : 



PHILIPS EXCURSION. 

PARIS BY NIGHT. 

Music Halls, Balls, Special Shows, Night Cafes, 
Different Sights. 

Starting every evening at 8.30 from iS Rue de la Paix. 

FARE, IO SHILLINGS EACH. 

Admittances, Drinks, Fees and Everything 
Included. 



Nothing to pay in advance. 



No extra charges. 



This was cheap enough for an " excursion " of that kind, for one 
Boston man who was here told me that he went out with a party of 
five, and it cost them $75 for about two hours' "sight-seeing." 
There was another inducement in the above, " drinks free." 

Paris, yes, France, may well be proud of her Opera House. I say 
France, because the opera here is a government affair, owned and 
controlled by the same. The building was commenced in 1S61 and 
completed in 1874, and is the largest amusement hall in the world. 
It covers an area of 122,364 square feet, or 13,596 square yards — nearly 
three acres. Yet it only contains a seating capacity for 2156 persons, 
for the reason that nearly all the gallery room except the top tier, is 
given up to private boxes. The land and building cost over $14,000,- 
000, and the building cannot be surpassed for its lavish decorations 
and magnificent finish. Entering the gilded gates, the visitor passes 
to the grand staircase, built of marble, thirty-two feet wide. The 
floor is divided into an orchestra, pit and amphitheatre, with a row 
of boxes on each side ; the first, second and third galleries are en- 
tirely of boxes, the first and second rows belonging to subscribers 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 



171 



and cannot be sold, the thL'd tier only are offered the public. The 
fourth gallery contains the cheapest seats, which cost from sixty 
cents to $1.50 each. The stage is 196 feet high, 178 feet wide and 74 
feet deep. A grand indoor and balcony promenade runs the entire 
width of the building. Opera is given every night during the sea- 
son. Off season, and during the summer months, it must be given at 
least three times a week. Each night when the opera is open, a horse 
guard, mounted on a charger, stands in front of the main entrance, 
and a guard paces up and down the top landing of the front, while 
guards or soldiers are stationed at each entrance, and your tickets 
must be shown to them before you can pass in. Once in, soldiers are 
to be found in charge, and ' ' old women ' ' ushers show you your seats. 
One of the latter entered the box in which I sat, and asked me if I 
would be kind enough to give her a tip. An orchestra of seventy- 
five pieces furnishes the music, included in this are thirty-one violins. 
The opera at Paris is indeed a grand treat to an American visiting 
that city. Speaking on this subject, why would it not be a grand 
idea for the United States government to foster something of this 
kind at our national capital? If we do it, we want to do it well. If 
France can afford it, certainly we ought to be able to do so. 

The Captain and I were walking along the street one day, when 
we noticed a large number of vacant stores with a sign in the same 
reading, " A Louer" meaning "To Let." The Captain, after we 
had passed a number, remarked, " That fellow, A. Louer, owns more 
stores than any other man in Paris." 

I asked the Captain if he would not join me in a Turkish bath. 

The Trocadero Palace and Gardens lie directly opposite the Eiffel 
Tower, just across the Seine. The palace is in the form of a crescent 
and is a magnificent structure. It is surmounted by a dome 173 feet 
in diameter, exceeding that of St. Peter's at Rome by 35 feet, and 
that of St. Paul's at London by 65 feet. The palace contains impor- 
tant salons devoted to sculptures and curiosities. On the Seine 
front is what at a distance resembles a great stairway but is a cascade 
on which the water is run at certain periods, the whole presenting a 
very fine effect. 

The Gobelins were formerly the royal tapestry works and are now 
the property of the Republic. The origin of these works dates back 
to 1450. The tapestries manufactured here are the finest produced 




3 
O 

X 

n 
u 
t> 
Ok 

O 



o 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 173 

in the world. In some cases it takes several years to complete a par- 
ticular design, and some of the productions cost as high as 50,000 
francs, or $ 10, 000. The works are usually copies of well-known pic- 
tures. These choice productions have for a number of generations 
been reserved for the exclusive use of the royal family for the time 
being, or have been presented to foreign courts, ambassadors or per- 
sons of distinction. At the present time only about 150 workmen are 
employed here. 

Close to the Boulevard St. Germain, at the point where it is crossed 
by the Boulevard St. Michael, is the Musee de Cluny, or the Cluny 
Museum. On this spot there once stood an ancient Roman palace 
with baths, which the early Frankish kings continued to occupy un- 
til they removed into the city. The present building was erected by 
the Benedictine monks at the close of the fifteenth century, and is a 
fine example of the late gothic style. The museum is one of the most 
valuable in France and contains upwards of 9000 objects. 

If you buy any article in Paris and ask for a bill, you are generally 
required to pay two cents extra for receipting it. The receipt is either 
by stamp or machine, the latter being used in large houses, and is 
automatic and furnished by the government. The revenue from this 
belongs to the Republic. 

An interesting place is the Conciergerie. It was here that most of 
the political prisoners of the first Revolution were confined before be- 
ing taken to execution. Marie Antoinette was confined here. The 
chamber occupied by her was afterward converted into a chapel, but 
was destroyed by the Commune of 187 1. By an act of justice, Robes- 
pierre and the other butchers of the first Revolution were consigned 
here. In 1833, Prince Jerome Napoleon, and in 1890, the Duke of 
Orleans were imprisoned here for a short time. 

" Do you know what is French for dirty ? " asked the Captain. 

My reply was that " soille " would cover the ground, and I asked 
the Captain why he inquired. 

' ' Two or three times I have wanted a clean napkin and have had 
some difficulty in making the waiter understand me," was the reply. 

I let the matter pass from my mind, at least for the time. It 
might have been a week later, that we — the Captain and myself — 
were seated at lunch, when I noticed him beckon to the waiter, and 
as he came up the Captain said : 




The Pantheon, Paris. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 175 

"Sortie." 

"Que, Monsieur?" answered the waiter. 

"Sortie " again returned the Captain, so I was obliged to come to 
his relief, and asked him what he wanted. 

"A clean napkin," was his reply. 

" But why did you say ' Sortie ' ? " I asked. 

" I meant my napkin was dirty," said the Captain. 

"But 'Sortie' does not signify dirty. It means ' to go out,' or 
'exit,' " I replied. 

The Captain insisted that was the translation I had given him for 
dirty. 

What could I do ? 

Why, like all newspaper men, I was forced to give in. 



I76 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN 



CHAPTER XIII, 
Versailles and Fontainebleau, 

IT IS the custom in Paris to give your cabman a tip. It is called 
pour boire, or drink money, and usually consists of twenty-five 
centimes, or five cents United States money. The Captain and 
myself had come in from a short ride one day, and the Captain 
handed the driver the regular fare, and was about to enter the hotel, 
when that individual hailed him ard shouted, " Pour Boire." 

"Poor boy," answered the Captain, "well, I am sorry for you, 
here is a quarter " and he handed the man a franc. No sooner did 
cocher receive it than he whipped up his horse and got out of sight, 
as he evidently thought the Captain would repent of his generosity 
and recall the gift. 

Twelve miles southwest from Paris lies the most interesting spot 
in France, Versailles. It is an easy carriage or coach drive of two 
hours, and the road lies through the Bois de Boulogne, St. Cloud and 
beautiful country suburbs dotted with fine groves and villas with 
flower gardens that make one feel as if he were in Paradise. Previous 
to the reign of Louis XIII., Versailles was used as a hunting ground. 
About 1624 that monarch became tired of the court residence, then 
St. Germain, and determined to build a palace that would command 
the admiration of all Europe Louis XIII. died in 1643, when his 
successor, Louis XIV., was but 5 years old, consequently the young 
king's mother, Anne of Austria, became Queen Regent, and the new 
court resided at Paris and St. Germain. Versailles was abandoned 
until 1662, when Louis XIV. was 24 years old. Liking Versailles 
very much he decided to enlarge the building and grounds and from 
that time to 1682 the place underwent great changes, when the king 
fixed his permanent residence here. In the meantime, the surround- 
ing country to the extent of nearly fifty square miles was purchased,, 
and when finished the undertaking is said to have cost over 
$100,000,000. Yet you are told, as you are shown through the 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 177 

palaces, that the expense was so enormous that before he died Louis 
XIV. destroyed alhthe books and accounts of this great undertaking, 
and the actual outlay was never known. 

Louis XIV. disliked the French capital, Paris. In his new home 
with his mistresses he found life far more to his taste. He wanted to 
have assembled at Versailles and under his eye all the nobility of 
France, for they had caused him much trouble, but under this new 
regime he proposed to make them obey, therefore, it is said that 
there were in the palace and dependent upon it more than 10,000 
people. 

Louis XV., after the death of his predecessor, made some further 
changes and additions to the palace and grounds, including a very 
fine theatre, and several elegant apartments were fitted up, so 
Versailles continued to be the seat of government until 1789. The 
enormous amount of money that this place cost and the expense of 
keeping it up impoverished France and was, no doubt, the cause of 
the first Revolution in 1789. At the opening of this war the rich 
furniture was sold regardless of cost and was scattered here and 
there. What was not sold was destroyed by the mobs. Fortunately, 
however, during all the troublesome times, the palaces and parks 
were preserved and remain today a monument of the past folly of a 
great people and yet a delight to the civilized people of the present 
time. During the Empire it was intended to demolish the buildings 
and rebuild them in the Greek-Roman style. A competition was 
opened, but the expense was so great that Napoleon I. abandoned it. 
From 1815 to 1830 Louis XVIII. restored and repaired the place and 
it was inhabited by certain former servants of the Bourbons, but one 
can judge who and what they were, when we are told they hung their 
washing out of the windows to dry and kept cows and goats on the 
roof. 

The evening after we returned from Versailles we visited the 
Cirque d'Ete on the Champ d'Klysees. The first part of the per- 
formance was very good, while the second part was a burlesque, 
entitled " Barkinson's Circus." In this act there were two per- 
formers, one made up evidently to represent a monkey and the other 
one to do the introducing. The Captain was very much interested, 
but was more surprised when he heard the performer shout something 
like this ; 




X 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 1 79 

"Allcz-vous a travers la." Then burst out in English : " What's 
the matter with you ? ' ' 

This thing kept up for some time, the man speaking a few words 
in French, but a good deal more in English. When he came up near 
the edge of the ring, where sat the Captain and myself, turning to 
me, the Captain remarked : 

" I will bet you two dollars that fellow is a Yankee." 

Imagine our surprise when the performer turned round and bow- 
ing to us, remarked : 

" Right you are." 

And the Captain was so delighted that had I not stopped him, I 
think he would have thrown his watch at the man. 

I will not attempt to describe the gardens of Versailles. I could 
not do it j ustice. It is one of those places that must be seen to be 
appreciated. Enormous in extent, grandeur and beauty and a para- 
dise in all. I might mention that here is the celebrated orange tree 
which was planted by Leonora, wife of Charles III., King of 
Navarre, who planted it in 142 1, and now, after 475 years, it is still 
alive and in the height of vigor. The terrace is adorned with flower 
beds and two fountains, known as the Crowns and the Pyramids. 
Below the basin of the Pyramids are the Baths of Diana, and north 
of this lie the basins of Neptune and the Dragon. The former is the 
largest and most beautiful fountain in the world. It cost over 
|3co,ooo and is only played on state or special occasions as it costs 
$2000 to play it for less than half an hour. The other fountain plays 
every other Sunday during the summer. 

At the extremity of the park is the beautiful villa known as Le 
Grand Trianon, built by Louis XIV. for his favorite mistress, 
Madame de Maintenon. The apartments are fitted up very fine and 
were occupied by the Dukes of Orleans and Nemours and before 
them by Napoleon I. They were intended to be used by Queen 
Victoria, during her proposed visit to Louis Philippe. In the Cabinet 
de la Reine is the bed formerly occupied by Josephine. This villa 
was a favorite resort for Louis XIV., Louis XV., Louis XVI. and also 
Napoleon I. The decorations are rich and abound in rare paintings 
and pieces of sculpture. 

From here one goes to the Petit Trianon, the stable in which all 
the state carriages are kept. Here are shown four sleds owned by 



l8o MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN J 

Louis XIV. , the carriage used by Napoleon as First Consul, the one 
used at the coronation of Charles XII., and the one used by the 
King of Rome and for the marriage of Napoleon III. and Eugenie, 
also the state carriage built expressly for the Czar of Russia on his 
visit to Paris In 1896. 

The Petit Trianon was built by Louis XV. for his mistress, 
Madame du Barri. The building is 70 feet square. The place is 
small in comparison with the other buildings. In the garden is a 
pretty little theatre, also a Swiss cottage erected for Marie Antoinette. 

Entering the large palace of Versailles, we pass through the 
gallery of statuary, which is very fine, the most notable piece being 
that of Joan of Arc, by the late Princess Maria of Wurtemburg. In 
the Salle de Constantine are to be seen many fine pictures and from 
here we pass to the Salle de 1 Opera, where performances formerly 
took place. Attached to the royal box of the theatre is the Foyer du 
Roi, where the court formerly partook of refreshments between the 
acts. In this hall, in 1855, a grand banquet was given in honor of 
the visit of Queen Victoria. Close to the theatre is a gallery of 
statues and busts that is interesting, and near by a salon devoted to 
pictures of battles fought during che Crusade in the Holy Land. The 
next interesting place is the galley of Louis Philippe, which con- 
tains a collection of historical paintings of the Revolution up to 
1830, and from here we approach what is known as the grand apart- 
ments, and which occupy all the part of that first floor of the central 
projection which faces the garden. Those on the north were occu- 
pied by the king, and those on the south by the queen. The 
ornamentations are paintings illustrating the life of Louis XIV. One 
of the salons contains the "Three Graces" of Pradier. The Salon 
de Mars was formerly used as a ballroom, and adjoining this was 
what was once the state bedroom, which contains a beautiful ceiling 
painted by Philippe of Champagne. The Throne room comes next. 
When Queen Victoria visited here this was used as the ballroom and 
was a scene of great brilliancy. The ball was opened with a qua- 
drille, the Emperor leading with Queen Victoria. 

From the Throne room we pass to what is called the most 
beautiful room in the world, known now as the Grande Galerie de 
Louis XIV., and 242x35 feet and 43 feet high. The ceiling is a work 
of art, while the walls are ornamented with red marble Corinthian 



OR, fWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. l8l 

pilasters. There are four niches in which are statues of Venus, 
Adonis, Mercury and Minerva. To the left of this are the private or 
reserved apartments of the king. It was from the windows of one 
of these apartments that the royal family were accustomed to sit to 
watch the return of the hunters from the chase. The handsomest 
room of all the apartments is the bedroom of Louis XIV., and the 
bed in which he died is still there. The decorations are superb. 
Pictures of the royal family hang on the walls. From here we pass 
to the chamber of Marie Antoinette, which was successively occupied 
by three queens named Marie, Maria Theresa, queen of Louis XIV., 
Maria Leezinska, queen of Louis XV., and Marie Antoinette, queen 
of Louis XVI. On the night of Oct. 5, 1789, Marie Antoinette was 
asleep in this room when the mob broke into the palace, and she 
made her escape through a small corridor leading to the grand ante- 
chamber of the king 

We next visit the magnificent Salon du Sacre, which contains 
David's celebrated picture of " The Coronation of Napoleon," 
painted at a cost of $20, coo. From here we pass to one of the most 
interesting rooms in the palace, the Salle de 1782, which contains 
portraits of all the heroes of the Revolution of 1789. In the Kscalier 
des Princes are three fine marble statues of Napoleon I., Louis 
Philippe and Louis XIV., and at the foot of the stairs is the Napoleon 
salon, containing statues and busts of the Napoleon family. 

The Grande Galerie des Batailles is, in my opinion, the finest salon 
I ever entered. It is magnificent, over 400 feet long, and devoted to 
mammoth paintings of battles in which the French people took 
part, from the fifth to the nineteenth century, and among them was 
the Battle of Yorktown in the American Revolution, with a life size 
picture of Washington. It will be remembered that in this fight the 
French took an active part in behalf of the American forces. From 
here we go to the Attique du Midi, a suite of rooms devoted to 
historical portraits, where the American visitor will recognize those 
of Henry Clay, Andrew Jackson, Daniel Webster and James K. Polk. 
It is interesting to know that they are in the famous palace at 
Versailles. The tour is closed with a view of several other salons, 
one containing portraits of all the kings of France from Pharamond 
to Louis Philippe. 

Versailles is indeed a great place to visit, and one that will make 
a lasting impression on the visitor. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 183 

Returning from Versailles, a stop was made at Sevres Porcelain 
Works owned by the government and located in the town of that 
name. In 1759, at the earnest solicitation of Madame de Pompadour, 
Louis XV. bought these works, and they have since been operated by 
the state. The product is the finest of its kind in the world and is 
very costly. To own a piece of Sevres is like owning something 
that your friends and neighbors do not have or cannot get. Fine.show 
rooms are opened to the public, and the process of manufacturing is 
shown and explained. It is an interesting place to visit. 

The Captain took a seat in a barber shop one afternoon to have a 
shave. It is the custom here to shave only and let the customer 
wash his face. The Captain leaned back as well as he could in 
the straight back chair, and was duly shaved or, as he called it, 
"scraped." In the meantime he had closed his eyes, while I was 
busily engaged in reading a paper. The barber had completed his 
work and passed to another customer, while the Captain slept on and 
I read my paper. looking up, after some time, I discovered the 
condition of things and awoke the Captain. When I explained the 
situation the Captain fell back in his chair, remarking that he had 
not made any trade as to price, and was going to have a shave and 
clean up or sit there all day. I notified the barber that he had better 
get a move on and finish up the Captain or there would be trouble. 
So the job was completed, and when the Captain asked the price and 
was told thirty centimes, or six cents, he rather knocked out the boss 
of the shop and all his jours when he gave the man one franc (twenty 
cents) as he departed. 

Fontainebleau ! What a history has Fontainebleau ! What tales its 
walls could unfold were they gifted with the power of speech ! 

The palace of Fontainebleau was erected in 1547, by Francis I. 
and was considered of almost unparalleled extent and magnificence. 
The exterior is only two stories high, and it is less imposing, com- 
pared with many other noted buildings of this character, than one 
would suppose. It is the interior that enchants the visitor. It was 
decorated by French and Italian artists, and is much admired. 
Henry IV. made considerable additions to it, but it has undergone 
but few changes since his time, except being restored at a laro-e 
expense by Louis Philippe and Napoleon III. There are several 
historic associations connected with the palace beside those of which 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 185 

mention will be made. Henry IV. caused his companion in arms, 
Marshal Biron, to be arrested here on a charge of high treason 
on June 4, 1602, and a month later had him beheaded. Louis XIV. 
signed the revocation of the Edict of Nantes here in 1685, by which 
Henry IV. had granted toleration to the Protestants in 1598, and it 
was here that Napoleon I. secured his divorce from Josephine in 
1809. 

An hour by express train from Paris and you are at Fontainebleau. 
The palace and grounds are reached by carriage in fifteen minutes. 
The place is open to visitors throughout the year, and it will 
require only one day to make the trip, inspect the buildings and 
return home. The buildings are divided in five different courts. The 
first, the Cour du Cheval Blanc, is the largest, and was the scene of 
Napoleon '-s parting from the grenadiers of his Old Guard, on April 
20, 1814, after his abdication. It was also here that he viewed the 
same troops before marching them to Paris, on the 20th of March, 
1815. 

On the ground floor is the Chapelle de la Trinite, where Louis 
XV. was married in 1725 and the Due d'Orleans in 1837. Napoleon 
III. was baptized here in 1810. From here a broad stairway leads to 
the apartments of Napoleon I. In this room is to be seen Napoleon's 
bed, a clock ornamented with cameos given to Napoleon by Pius 
VII., and furniture brought from Marie Antoinette's apartments at 
the Trianon. To the left of this is the S ilia du Conceil, or council 
chamber, and following we arrive at the boudoir of Marie Antoinette, 
with some historic furniture therein. 

The Galerie de Diane, a hall 265 feet long, and constructed under 
the direction of Henry IV. , is adorned with elegant paintings, repre- 
senting mythological scenes and a library of about 35,000 volumes. 
In this room, in 1657, Queen Christina, of Sweden, was a guest of the 
French court after her abdication, and caused her unfortunate and 
favorite Count Monaldeschi to be put to death after a pretended trial 
for treason. The Salons de Reception, or reception rooms, are hand- 
somely embellished with Gobelin tapestry. The Salon Louis XIII. 
is the one in which that king was born. 

The Salles de St. Louis contain fifteen pictures relating to the life 
of Henry IV. In the Salon aux Jeux i" a clock of Louis XIV. The 
Salles des Gardes is the last of the suite, and is adorned with a fine 
bust of Henry IV. There are other apartments less interesting, but 



i86 



MY FRIEND, ? HE CAPTAIN , 



there are two fine halls, one the Galerie d'Henry II., which is 100x33 
feet, and the other the Galerie de Francis I., 210x20 feet. Both are 
embellished with paintings, etc. To the left of the Vestibule 
d'Honneure are the apartments of Reines Meres and Pius VII. 
They were once occupied by Catherine de Medicis, Anne of Austria, 
mother of Iyouis XIV., and later by Pius VII., who was a prisoner 
from June, 1812, to January, 1814. A number of other rooms follow, 
showing the bedrooms of Anne of Austria and Pius VII. and the 
Galerie des Assiettes, which derives its name from the quaint style in 
which it was decorated, by order of Louis Philippe, with plates of 
porcelain bearing views of royal residences. 

The gardens of Fontainebleau are fine, and well worth the trip. 
The Avenue Maintenon leads to the forests of Fontainebleau, and the 
decorations of the gardens are all told in the story of the early days 
of the French Empire. The forests of Fontainebleau adjoin, and are 
about fifty miles in circumference and cover about 42,000 acres. 
This is regarded as the most beautiful place of its kind in all France. 
Volumes have been written in which Fontainebleau and its forests 
have been the central figure. It is a grand place, and after a tour of 
its courts the average visitor is filled with a desire to study carefully 
the history of France. It will be found much more interesting read- 
ing than two-thirds of the novels of the present generation. 

The Captain accompanied me to the Louvre Art Gallery, Paris, 
and appeared to be interested in the display. After passing through 
the various salons, we took our way to the basement, where was a 
great exhibition of statuary. This captured the Captain, and he 
examined every subject carefully until he came to the Venus de Milo, 
when he stopped short. 

" Come," said he, "let us get out of here." 

"Why?" I asked. 

" Because, this place is a fraud." 

"A fraud," I answered, "why, my dear Captain, this is one of 
the great art galleries of Europe ; why do you say it is a fraud ? ' ' 

" Just look at that statue of that woman, both arms gone. I say- 
this is a fraud." 

And the Captain pushed his hat on the back of his head and 
strolled toward a looking-glass near by, arranged his necktie and said 
he was ready to go. 

We went. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 1 87 

In how many ways has the old proverb, "Tall oaks from little 
acorns grow," been observed in business enterprises ! To the visitor 
to Paris one of the first sights in the way of commercial enterprises is 
the " Louvre Magazine," or, as we would put it, the great department 
store of the Louvre. Parisians are proud of this great establishment, 
and it is as well known to the regular visitor here as it is to the 
resident. Located directly at the foot of the Avenue de 1' Opera, it is 
within walking distance of all the great hotels, or only a few minutes' 
ride in a cab or an omnibus. 

In 1855, two men who had spent some years in a commercial way 
founded the Louvre. They were Messrs. Alfred Chauchard and 
Auguste Heriot. This was a period in which France was beginning 
to make a stride forward. It was at this time that a great wave of 
industrial prosperity rolled' over the country. The first universal 
Exposition was in progress ; the Emperor Napoleon III. cut through 
and opened up that splendid thoroughfare, the Rue de Rivoli, and 
other improvements were made that commenced that transformation 
in Paris that has since made it known as the most beautiful city in 
the world. Great railroads were at this time in process of construc- 
tion, and the people of the empire who had been so isolated from each 
other began to realize that they were closer together as a nation. In 
the midst of all these advantages the Louvre Magazine was opened 
to the public, and it was certainly an event that is remembered to this 
day by the older inhabitants. 

The proprietors Messrs. Chauchard and Heriot, brought to their 
enterprise not only a force of organization but a surety of taste that 
made it a gigantic success. From the first it was their motto to 
insure square dealing and honesty in all transactions, not only with 
their customers but with their help as well, and thus build up a strong 
organization, for they both had something better in view than the 
present. In the first place, they adopted a fixed or one price system 
and bought their goods in large quantities. In case goods were pur- 
chased and after they were taken home not liked, they could be 
returned and exchanged, or the money refunded, thus securing one 
of the greatest boons in a business career, the confidence of their 
trade. 

In August, 1879, Mr. Heriot died, and in 1885 Mr. Chauchard 
retired from active business, in the enjoyment of a large fortune 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 1 89 

made by a long and honorable business career. He has, since giving 
up his active business life, devoted large sums to the encouragement 
of the arts and donated to various philanthropic societies, besides 
keeping his old clerks who had been his working companions in his 
prosperous days. Thus the Louvre Magazine passed from the hands 
of its founders to the present directors, who have made it a study to 
follow out the same lines which has made this great establishment 
what it is. Every facility is offered their customers which they can 
possibly carry out, such as free delivery in Paris, and the same out- 
side of the city on purchases amounting to a certain sum. They are 
alive in advertising, and have a department for this purpose, and 
issue catalogues, etc., which they distribute all over the country. In 
order to contribute to the development, taste and beauty of their 
models the house usually offers prizes, to which are invited master 
workmen and manufacturers who are interested in art as applied to 
industry. 

For their employes the directors of the Louvre take special care. 
They have for their benefit a mutual aid society, a department of 
beneficence, a department of medical assistance, not only for their 
aid while active, but for those who through overwork need a rest and 
sea air or baths. A place is provided for the latter free of all 
expense. In order to bring their large family together as much as 
possible (and it is policy to do this, as over 3000 people are employed 
in this vast establishment) they have two lodging houses, one for men 
and the other for women, where they are given free lodging. The 
Louvre Magazine is closed at 7 o'clock every evening, so as to allow 
their help the advantages of some time to themselves. Everything is 
done to encourage the study of foreign languages, for the store is 
thronged daily with people from all countries. A school has been 
established for this purpose, and every year a purse is presented to 
certain on2S, to enable them to travel abroad and learn the manners 
and customs, as well as assist them in the language of the people. I 
met one gentleman there who had been a resident of Boston for over 
two years, employing his time in perfecting himself in English. 

In order to encourage economy a department of current accounts, 
or banking room, has been opened, where deposits are received up to 
5000 francs ($1000), on which interest at the rate of four per cent is 
paid. In order to recompense in a measure for long service, gold 



I90 MY FRIEND, fHE CAPTAIN; 

medals are given annually to all who have served twenty -five years 
with the house, and if any of the help is called out for military duty 
they are reinstated on their return. 

While being conducted through the Louvre Magazine, I was taken 
to the dining rooms and kitchens on the top floor. Here over three 
thousand people are fed daily. A nominal charge of 150 centimes, 
or thirty cents United States currency, is made to cover the bare cost 
of the food. For this they receive two meals per day, breakfast and 
dinner, and good meals they are, including a bottle of wine at each. 
The kitchen was as large as that of the greatest hotel in the land. 

Let me commend the methods of this great establishment to our 
American merchants, and let me say : "Try and do likewise." If 
you ever visit Paris give this great establishment a call. You will be 
welcomed, and see a sight worth going many miles to see. 

One evening the Captain came rushing into the reading room of 
our hotel at Paris and taking hold of the lapel of my coat, urged me 
to follow him. 

" What's up, Captain ? " I asked 

" Come here," he said, " come here. A fellow has insulted me, 
and I propose to lick him." 

" What is the trouble, Captain ? " 

" It's just this," he replied, " I was out riding, and when I came 
in the driver called me a sow." 

" Called you what? " I answered. 

' ' A sow, did you ever hear of such impudence ? ' ' 

And the Captain, who was rather stout, actually unbuttoned his 
colar to give him easy use of his neck. 

I thought there must be some mistake, so I prevailed upon my 
friend to remain w 7 here he was until I investigated the matter. I 
found the hackman still in front of the hotel, and when I talked with 
him I learned he had asked the Captain for a few sous (a sou is one 
cent). I gave the man what he asked for and, returning to the 
Captain, explained his mistake. He declared he was sick and tired 
of a country that made such use of the English language. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 191 



CHAPTER XIV. 
Last Days in the Gay French Capital. 

0NE beautiful morning, as I came down from my room in my 
hotel at Paris, I was met by the Captain, who greeted me with 
his usual smile and turning to me, remarked, 
"Bon marche, monsieur '." 

I stopped for a moment and looked at the Captain, wondering 
what he meant, for Bon marche in French means cheap, or low 
priced, but I thought I would flatter him a little and turning to him, 
I remarked : 

" You are improving in your French, Captain." 

" Yes," was his reply. " I have been in Paris now nearly two 
weeks, and I think if I should stay here two weeks longer, / would 
make a good Parasite.'" 

Later on, I learned that the Captain intended to say to me, — "Bon 
matin, monsieur " meaning, " Good morning, sir." 

It is a pity that man's life is not spared to a greater number of 
years to enjoy the workings of a great enterprise that he has estab- 
lished. Yet the great Giver of all things has decided otherwise. 
While I was in Paris I could not help sauntering, or rather taking a 
cab drive, over to that great, yes, that marvelous store, the Bon 
Marche. Everyone who goes to Paris visits this place. Everyone 
who does not go there must have heard of it. Here, gathered to- 
gether under one roof, is the most interesting store in the world. It 
is a department house, yet it is not a grocery establishment, nor a 
Cheap John affair. It is a place where the best, as well as the cheaper 
grade of goods can be found, yet the aim of the management is to 
dispose of these at the very lowest cash prices that they can possibly 
be sold. 

In 1853 Aristide Boucicaut was a partner in a druggist's business 
in Paris. Of this house up to 1863 but little is on record. However, 



I92 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

Monsieur Boucicaut had in the meantime secured a portion of this 
world's goods, so that in the last named year he purchased the inter- 
est of his partners and became the sole proprietor of the business. 
At this time the business was a comparatively small one ; Monsieur 
Boucicaut was blessed in having for a wife an energetic lady, whose 
sole aim was that of her husband's future success, and it was partially 
through her efforts that this great establishment is what it is at the 
present day. One of the first things Monsieur Boucicaut did was to 
study carefully the interest of his people ; he sought to make the 
lives of those in his employ happier and more pleasant, and to make 
them feel as if they were part of a family rather than servants. This 
soon attracted the attention of the general public, and, like all pa- 
triotic Frenchmen and French women, they were not slow in show- 
ing their appreciation of this philanthropist, and he began to receive 
his reward in a substantial way. 

Six years alone in business is but a short time when one has the 
many cares of an enterprise that each year shows rapid gains, but in 
that time, or in 1869, Monsieur Boucicaut found he must have a 
larger store, and the corner stone of the present Bon Marche building 
was laid. When the great structure was completed and ready for 
occupancy it seems that renewed prosperity came to Monsieur Bouci- 
caut, for the business increased at a wonderful rate. 

To attempt to describe the floors and the many departments of the 
Bon Marche" would be impossible. It would be so lengthy that it 
would be tiresome, but in order to give some idea of the magnitude of 
this establishment the illustrations presented on other pages have 
been prepared. The store occupies one entire square or block. It is 
located on the left bank of the Seine, beyond the Latin quarter. It is 
easily accessible from any part of Paris by a system of omnibuses, 
trams and cabs. Go there when you will and you will always find a 
vast crowd of purchasers. 

Monsieur Boucicaut not only showed his ability as a business man 
and a manager, but his success was largely due to the spirit of enter- 
prise, the honesty of purpose and the way he conducted his affairs and 
his great benevolences. Therefore, he not only founded a great and 
powerful business, but a great humane work, a social institution. He 
gathered around him a staff of competent and superior employes. 
These he chose with care and made them understand that his interests 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 193 

were their interests. One of the first things he did was to provide a 
Provident Fund, and this was followed by Madame Boucicaut found- 
ing a Retiring Pension Fund, which guaranteed to all the old em- 
ployes of the house ample relief when they reached old age, and 
were rendered incapable of attending to business demands. 

Upon the death of Monsieur Boucicaut some years ago, his wife 
arranged so as to allow the most competent employes to purchase 
stock in the concern and thus become financially interested. The 
moral and intellectual condition of the army of people employed here 
has been carefully looked after. Free evening classes for the study 
of English, vocal and instrumental music, and fencing were formed 
and largely attended. Each year those who show the most rapid de- 
velopment of English are sent to London for a period of six months 
to study up this branch, and all expenses are paid by the house. The 
Bon Marche has interpreters for all languages, rendered necessary 
on account of the large number of foreigners who visit the store while 
in Paris. A picture and sculpture gallery is a feature of the place, 
where artists are allowed to display their works and find possible cus- 
tomers. Only originals are received, copies not being allowed in the 
gallery. In case a visitor finds a picture he or she may like, and an 
offer is made for the same, this is submitted to the artist, and if ac- 
cepted the sale is made, and the entire amount paid over to the artist, 
as no charge or commission is taken by the establishment. 

To show the benevolent workings of the Bon Marche I give some 
idea of the magnitude of the same. The Boucicaut Provident Fund, 
established in 1876, is supported by means of a sum deducted 
annually from the profits of the business, and may be summed up as 
follows : In 1876 there was in this fund 62,020 francs, or about $12,500. 
In 1886 there was 1,009,130 francs, or abont $200,000, and in 1897 
there is about 2,500,000 francs or about $500,00 \ All help employed 
by the house for five years become participators in its benefit. Each 
participant has an individual account opened in his or her name and 
is provided with a book indicating exactly the amount lying to his 
credit. This account is annually increased by interest at the rate of 
four per cent per annum. The right of obtaining the capital to their 
credit is as follows : By all lady assistants who have served fifteen 
years in the employ of the firm, or who reach the age of forty -five 
years ; by all men who have been in the employ of the house for 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. T95 

twenty years, or reached the age of fifty years. In case of death, all 
accounts standing to the credit of those interested are transferred or 
paid to husband or wife, or children, or direct legal heirs, irrespec- 
tive of time, age or service. In addition to the amount of capital of 
this fund in 1897 there has already been paid out 1,000,000 francs, or 
$200,000. 

The Employes' Pension Fund, created by Madame Boucicaut in 
1886, started with a fund of 5,000,000 francs, or $1,000,000, given by 
Madame Boucicaut from her personal fortune. This capital now 
amounts to nearly 7,000,000 francs, or $1,400,000 and 130 people who 
have formerly been in the employ of the house, have retired and are 
receiving pensions amounting in all to 110,000 francs per year, or 
about $22,000. All employes in the Bon Marche who have served it 
for twenty years, or men who reach fifty years, and women who 
reach forty-five years, are entitled to receive benefit from this fund. 
It is a life pension, and varies from 600 francs ($r2o) to 1500 francs 
($300) per year. 

Employes who are obliged to leave the house for military duty are 
reinstated when their time expires. They are obliged to give notice 
of their desire to return and present an irreproachable military certifi- 
cate. If summoned out by the government for a month or less duty, 
they are allowed two francs (40 cents) per day and 1 franc (20 cents) 
per day for each of their children during the short time they are out. 
A doctor is engaged by the house for the help and free service given. 

Both Monsieur and Madame Boucicaut have gone to their reward, 
and their successors show by their works that they have at heart the 
great principles left them by the founders of Bon Marche. In addi- 
tion to the benefits already described, they started in 1S92 a second 
pension and benefit fund, to be devoted exclusively to the workpeople 
engaged in the workrooms of the Bon Marche, and happiness and 
prosperity has attended them in their efforts to make those around 
them believe that life is worth living. 

A French gentleman was explaining to the Captain the Franco- 
Russian alliance, and was quite enthusiastic about the combination 
made by the two countries. ' ' The flags of these two countries, ' ' he re- 
marked, " are as near one as ever such an arrangement was known in 
all Europe, and we can stand or fall together." 

The Captain paused for a moment, I knew something was coming, 
but it came quicker than I thought, when he replied : 



196 mv i?rie;nd, ?hk captain ; 

' ' Yes, I suppose you feel secure, but we own a flag on the other 
side of the great Atlantic that stands — or flies — alone. The Stars and 
Stripes can look out for itself, and needs no alliance." 

It is amusing to hear the cry that goes up from the American tour- 
ists about the effect of the new tariff bill on their personal baggage. 
The trouble is mostly with the feminine portion. And I have thought 
to myself, " What fools these mortals be." I was talking with one 
gentleman who appeared delighted at the good news he had heard 
from his beloved home across the sea. Business promised well. It 
had not promised so well for nearly five years. He was a man of 
means, and owned a considerable amount in stocks. These had ad- 
vanced in value, and I judged from what I gathered from the conver- 
sation that, taking all things together, this man would be better off 
by four or five thousand dollars before the new year came in. That 
same afternoon I met his wife. She was raging mad, she almost 
swore. I believe if she had had the present administration at her 
mercy in Paris she would have annihilated the whole lot, and all this 
because she had bought seven or eight hundred dollars' worth of 
goods, and would have to pay duty on all but one hundred dollars. 
I judge she would be taxed about one hundred and fifty dollars. 
When I compared the report given me by her husband and her own 
feelings, I thought with the maker of the remark, " Consistency thou 
art a jewel." This, however, is only a sample. People who earn 
their money in the United States, should learn to spend it there. If 
they cannot find what they want here, and prefer to go abroad and 
spend their cash, let them pay for it. 

One with plenty of leisure time on his hands often meets with 
queer experiences over here. I remember coming in contact with a 
gentleman and his wife from Philadelphia. I am of the opinion they 
were people well-to-do. They told me they paid eight hundred dol- 
lars each for their expenses for a three months' tour over here. That 
was sixteen hundred dollars for the pair. They brought with them 
fifteen hundred dollars to spend, and the moment they landed in a 
town they would make a bee line for the stores. The sacred attrac- 
tions were neglected ; art galleries, great cathedrals and the wonders 
of nature were ". not in it." They had no attraction for this pair. It 
was the shops, the shop windows and the displays they made. And 
this man delighted in telling me that he never paid the prices asked 
him, but always beat the storekeepers down. I don't know as I can 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 197 

blame him much for that, as the shopkeepers of Europe have learned 
to charge as high a price as possible, and — take what they can get. 
The smart shopper has found it to be so. 

I was passing along one of the boulevards with the Captain, when 
his attention was attracted by a large sign over a store that read, 
' Confections pour Dames." 

" Come in here a moment with me," said the Captain. 

We entered the store, and as the atten !ant came forward the Cap- 
tain said, " Give me one pound of your best chocolates." 

" Comment, monsieur," was the reply. 

Before the Captain could answer, I told the waiting clerk it was a 
mistake, and got my companion outside. 

" Why did you go in there and ask for chocolate creams?" I asked. 

" Because I wanted them," was the reply. 

1 ' But why did you go in such a store as this ? They do not keep 
confectionery here, but ladies' made-up garments," I returned. 

" Look at that sign over the door," said the Captain " ' Confec- 
tions for Dames,'' isn't that plain enough ? " 

And when I told the Captain that ' confections ' in French meant 
made-up garments for ladies' wear, he said he was sick of a country 
whose early education had been so sadly neglected. 

One of the greatest nuisances of European travel is the gauntlet 
one has to run at the hotels, depots and about every place where you 
are at the mercy of others. If you do not tip these people they are 
ready to go for you. Here is a sample of my own experience at a 
certain place where I was. The day before my departure I notified 
the office of my intention to go, and ordered my bill to be ready. 
When I boarded my train I made a memorandum of what I was 
obliged to pay in tips, and here is a copy of it : 

Head waiter at hotel, $1.00 

Two waiters each $2, 4.00 

Chambermaid, 50 

Chambermaid assistant 50 

Two elevator men, each 25c 50 

Porter, 1.00 

Bootblack, 75 

Two office boys, each 50c 1.00 

Bell boy, 25 

Door-keeper 50 

Two porters for handling- baggage, 25c 50 

Cab driver 10 

Three depot porters, each 10c 30 

Total $10.90 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 199 

The Captain got interested in a duel between Prince Henri d' Or- 
leans and the Count of Turin. 

" What's all this racket about? " he asked. 

When I told him that the Count considered the Prince had in 
suited the Italian soldiers by claiming that they were cowards, the 
Captain replied : 

' ' Do you know what I would do with these two fellows if I had my 
way ? I would give them six months each for being drunk and dis- 
orderly, or send both to the insane asylum for their natural lives." 

The Captain meant it. 

About the dullest and toughest customer I ever had a tussle with 
was a Paris policeman. As the boy said, "They don't know beans " 
Ask one a question and ten to one you cannot get a reply. If you do 
you know about as much after they tell you as you did before. They 
are a stupid set, decidedly so. Not because I could not understand 
their French or they understand mine, but because they were not an 
accommodating set. Far different from the London " bobby, " who 
will walk a block with you to give you the information you want — 
with, of course, the prospect of a tip. 

Paris was full of American songs and American airs. The bands 
played them, the hurdy-gurdy s played them, and they sang them in 
concert saloons. It seemed to me as if America had been moved over 
here for a while. 

I have often heard arguments about the cost of living in Paris — I 
am not speaking of hotel, but private life. Some were of the opinion 
one could live cheaper here, while others thought it was more expen- 
sive. It is decidedly the latter. One can live cheaply here, if he or 
she elects. For instance, a room can be secured for four or five francs 
per week, breakfast at one franc, lunch at one and a half francs and 
dinner at two to three francs, making a total cost of room and three 
meals per day from $i to $1.25. Mind you, this is the cheapest way a 
person of limited means could live, unless he went down to the slum 
methods. But what can you do at home? Say Boston, for instance. 
Room, $1 per week, board of three square meals at restaurant or din- 
ing rooms, $3. 50 per week, total, $4.50 per week, or twenty-five per 
cent cheaper than in Paris, and a far better table. When one goes to 
the better class of houses and better class of cafes, the cost is far 
ahead of that here in our own country. In buying there are certain 



200 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN ; 

things favorable to both sides ; for instance, kid gloves, silks, laces 
and clothing are cheaper here than in the United States, but there are 
enough things to offset these that are cheaper in our own land to 
make the balance in our favor. A French lady, born in Paris, told 
me that after a residence of a few years in Boston she was fully con- 
vinced that she could take one hundred dollars and buy more for it 
in Boston or New York than she could in Paris. Of course, she re- 
ferred to women's necessities in dress. 

I was invited to inspect a sensation in Paris known as the Cafe de 
la Morte, or the Cafe* of Death. I was ushered into a room with rows 
of coffins on each side which served as tables and where refreshments 
were served. Here a series of pictures were hung on the walls, and 
shown by electric lights, changing from life to death scenes. Skulls 
and crossbones covered the place. Lighted tapers were given each 
person and a walk was taken to a hall where an exhibition of turning 
a live man into a skeleton in his own coffin was given, this was fol- 
lowed by an exhibition of ghosts in another hall, and we were told to 
"sortie." 

Such is only a mild sample of life in the Parisian capital. 

The Captain wanted to buy a pair of opera glasses, and was ex- 
amining a certain pair in a store, and asked the price. 

" Fifty francs, monsieur," was the reply. 

" How much? " asked the Captain. 

" Fifty francs, monsieur," came the answer. 

" I won't pay it," was the reply. " I'll tell you what I'll do. I'll 
give you just ten dollars for them," remarked the Captain. 

" Well, monsieur," answered the storekeeper. " I can't afford it, 
but you may take them." 

When we got outside and I told the Captain that fifty francs was 
just ten dollars, he wanted me to go back with him while he offered 
the man five dollars. But it was too late ; he had bought and paid 
for them, and I settled the matter satisfactorily by paying for the 
cigars. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Cambridge and Oxford. 

1 JTY ENDEAVORS to teach the Captain French were not 
|\/[ particularly successful, but once in a while he remembered 
@/ Y 1 what I told him. One day he asked me what the French 
called England, and I told him Angleterre. When we 
crossed the Channel it was terribly rough and the Captain was one of 
the sickest of the entire ship's company. As we stepped off the gang- 
plank, I asked : 

" Captain, aren't you glad to get on terra firma again ? " 
The Captain looked at me for a moment, and then said : 
"Look here, quit fooling with me. When I asked you what these 
Frenchmen called England you said Angleterre, now you call it 
Terra Firma. I may not know as much as you do, but I know terra 
firma is the stuff they adulterate candy with." 
I gave it up. 

I think, without exception, the most beautiful place I visited in 
England was Cambridge. Cambridge can be reached from London 
by express train in about one hour and forty minutes. The town is 
an old one, dating back beyond the Romans, and after the departure 
of these people, the Danes pillaged and burned the town in 870, and 
again in 1010. Of the subsequent history of Cambridge up to the 
time of the Norman Conquest, very little is known. William the 
Conqueror, having taken possession of it, founded the castle in 1068 
and from it conducted his military operations against the Saxon pre- 
lates and nobles, who, with Here ward and his army, long held their 
camp of refuge at Ely. So obstinate was the resistance that in 1069 
the king was obliged to come in person to Cambridge Castle, with a 
powerful army, in order to reduce these insurgents. In 1088 the 
town and county were laid waste with fire and sword by Roger de 
Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury, who was in arms in support of 
Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy, the elder son of the Conqueror. 




t5 

c 

a 
w 



u 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 203 

The town remained in the king's hands until the time of Henry I., 
the sheriffs of the county rendering the annual profits to the town's 
exchequer. But that prince granted to the burgesses the liberty to 
hold their town at farm, they paying to him the same sum as the 
sheriff of the county had been accustomed to render. Henry I., 
having been educated here, had a partiality for the place and in grati- 
tude endowed readers of several languages theiein. Besides, he 
ordered in 11 18 that " no vessel should unlade or pay toll for its goods 
anywhere but in Cambridge." Fires, pestilence and frequent civil 
discord followed these events. The towns suffered from plunder, dis- 
putes and anarchy during the reign of the Plantaganet kings. In 
1267, King Henry III., commenced to fortify the town to protect it 
against the rebellious barons. He caused a ditch to be made, sur- 
rounding it on those sides where it was not protected by the river. 
He partially built a wall, which was soon destroyed by the insurgents. 
He also erected two gates, all trace of which has since disappeared, 
but the ditch remains and it is still called the King's Ditch, although 
all but a small portion is covered over. 

In 1381 a serious tumult rose between the townsmen and the Uni- 
versity. The townsmen assembled at their hall and having chosen and 
obliged James de Grantcestre to act as their leader, they committed 
the most flagrant acts of violence. They broke open the doors of the 
Corpus Christi College, carried away the charters, jewels and other 
goods belonging to that .institution. They obliged several of the 
masters to renounce, under pain of death and destruction of their 
dwellings, all the privileges that had ever been granted them. After 
this, they broke open the University chest in St. Mary's church and 
taking out all the records burned them, with the other papers, in the 
market place. Many other acts of violence accompanied these pro- 
ceedings and the misguided crowd, to insure its own safety, forced 
certain of the principal members of the University to sign a bond 
which vested its entire future government in the burgesses of the 
town. Soon after, however, this usurped power was wrested from 
their hands by Henry le Spencer, Bishop of Norwich. Several of the 
principal leaders were imprisoned during life ; the mayor was de- 
prived of his office, and the liberties granted by King John and 
Henry III. were declared forfeited and part of them bestowed on the 
chancellor of the University. 



204 



MY. FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN 



In 1574 the town was visited by the plague. In 1643, Cromwell, 
who had twice represented the town, took possession of it for the 
Parliament and put in a garrison of 1000 men. 

Many other interesting events took place, but from the restora- 
tion of the Stuarts to the present time there is scarcely anything to 
record concerning the history of Cambridge likely to interest the 
visitor. 

The Captain was enjoying a smoke one evening, and had for a 
companion an English gentleman who had devoted many years to 
travel. In the course of the conversation, the Englishman was 
describing a trip up the Rhine. 

" I suppose," he remarked, "that you Americans were delighted 
with the Rhine?" 

"Yes," answered the Captain, " we are, but we do not call it by 
that name." 

"You do not," replied the Captain's friend ; " what do you call 
it?" 

" We know it as the Danube river," answered the Captain, as he 
endeavored to toss the ashes from his cigar, but in doing so they 
covered the dark trousers of his companion. 

The origin and progress of the University would make a history 
in itself, and is said to have dated back as far as the seventh century, 
but it was towards the close of the thirteenth century, or in 1284, 
that the first institution at all answering to the present college foun- 
dation was erected. In that year, Hugh de Balshan, Bishop of Ely, 
purchased two hostels, near St. Mary's church, now called St. Mary's 
the L,ess, and placed scholars in them whom he endowed with certain 
possessions, thus making what is known as Peter's, or St. Peter's Col- 
lege. This plan seems to have been adopted in subsequent founda- 
tions. For the next 400 or 500 years the University went on increasing 
in wealth and magnificence, royal visits were frequently paid to it, and 
kings became its fathers and queens its nursing mothers. Special 
charters were granted to it, the earliest dating from the reign of 
Henry III. and many important privileges were conceded to it by 
succeeding monarchs, especially Edward III. 

In 1614 James I. conferred upon the University the privilege of 
sending two members to Parliament, the right of election being 
vested in the members of the Senate. 



OR, TWO YANKEKS IN RUROPK. 2C>5 

The colleges are Seventeen in number, to which have lately been 
added two hostels, one theological college, and two colleges for 
women, all independent and incorporate bodies ; in fact, each college 
is an independent corporation, but all are subject to the paramount 
laws of the University, in the administration of which they all bear a 
share. The principal officer is the chancellor, whose power, however, 
is merely nominal and is delegated to a vice-chancellor. An annual 
election is held for the office of vice-chancellor, who is chosen from 
among the heads of the colleges. During his year of office he has the 
government of this literary commonwealth. 

The public orator is another important officer. He acts as the 
mouthpiece of the Senate on all public occasions. Each college has 
its own master, or head ; several fellows, who are maintained by the 
revenues of the foundation ; scholars, who are students of superior 
attainments, elected by examination, who receive payments in money 
and other advantages ; pensioners, or ordinary students, who pay 
their own expenses and derive no pecuniary advantage from the col- 
leges, and sizars, who, being students of limited means, have both the 
University and college fees greatly reduced to them and receive 
various emoluments. 

Most of the colleges lie on the right side of the river and are old 
structures with courtyards, cloisters, beautiful grass plots, with flower 
beds, etc., that are enchanting to the visitor. In the rear, across the 
river, is a magnificent wood with many shade trees and pathways. 
This is all kept up in excellent taste, the grass being green and well 
preserved and the road beds in perfect order ; in fact, it almost makes 
one feel like going through fairyland. It is my purpose merely to 
mention a few of the colleges that I visited while there. 

One day the Captain intended to visit a nearby town, and while 
taking a hurried lunch asked the waiter if he would make all possible 
speed, as he did not want to miss his train. 

"We always accommodate our guests," was the reply, " and I am 
certain the railway will do likewise." 

The Captain looked up to me and said : ' ' There is civility for 
you. 'Where would you find that in America?" And he gave his 
attendant a five shilling piece in mistake for a shilling. 

Whether we regard the number of its members, the extent of its 
buildings, or the long roll of illustrious men who have been educated 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 2 °7 

within its walls, Trinity College is the noblest collegiate foundation 
in the Kingdom of Great Britain. Christ's Church College is a 
larger one in extent of buildings, but falls considerably short of 
Trinity in standing. 

Trinity College was formed by the consolidation and extension of 
several earlier foundations, dating back to that of the Michael House, 
founded in 1324, and several others of equal note. The entrance or 
gateway is worthy of special notice, and is one of the finest of its 
kind, and is known as the King's Gateway. It was built in the reign 
of Edward IV. The truth of this is proved by the fact that the royal 
arms on the outer front are supported by two lions, no other monarch 
having used these supporters. At the same time this gate was evi- 
dently intended for Edward III. for it is surrounded by the garter and 
the arms of France. On either side of the king's arms, under rich 
canopies, are those of the sons of Edward III., a blank shield being 
left for his second son, William of Hatfield, who died in infancy. 

In a large niche between the windows is a statue of Henry VIII. 
On the inner side of the tower are statues of King James I., Anne of 
Denmark, his queen, and their eldest son, Henry, Prince of Wales. 
The roof beneath the gateway is modern, and is a handsome and in- 
genious example of wooden vaulting. It is ornamented with shields 
bearing the arms of all the masters of the college. Sir Isaac Newton 
stayed here, and his rooms were on the north side of this gateway, 
over the porter's lodge. 

The college consists of five courts and the building is called Bish- 
op's Hostel. These courts are known as the Old. or Great Court, 
Neville's, or Cloister Court, King's, or the New Court, and two courts 
on the opposite side of the street, to the east of the entrance gateway, 
called the Whewell Courts. It would be impossible to enter into a 
description of these beautiful open spaces. They must certainly be 
seen to be appreciated. 

The chapel, which has lately undergone very extensive alterations 
and improvements, was planned by Henry VIII. It was commenced 
in 1556 by his daughter Mary, and completed by Elizabeth in or about 
1564. It is a spacious edifice of the plain perpendicular-gothic style. 
Internally it is 204 feet in length, 34 in breadth and 44 in height. 
At the west end is a fine statue of Sir Isaac Newton, which was pre- 
sented to the college in 1755, and is considered one of the finest mod- 




King's Gateway, Entrance to Trinity College, Cambridge, England. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 209 

ern statues in England. The philosopher is represented as standing 
on a pedestal in a Master of Arts gown with a prism in his hand. 
This statue when first finished had the mouth closed. A friend 
pointed this out to the sculptor as a defect, and before morning he 
had opened the mouth and made it what it is — simply perfection. 

In the chapels of all the colleges the master and vice-master have 
seats on either side of the entrance to the choir ; fellows are seated in 
seats which are continuous with these last, while the scholars and 
sizars occupy the range of raised seats below the fellows. The rest 
of the students find their places on benches parallel to the length of 
the chapel. Each college has a lodge with a porter, who is only too 
anxious to show visitors around for a small fee of sixpence or a 
shilling. 

Christ's College is the largest in Cambridge. The institution of 
this college came about in this way : This was formerly the grammar 
college of God's House, and was originally founded and endowed on 
a site near to Clare Hall, by William Byngham, rector of St. John 
Zachary, London, about 1439. At the special request of Henry VI. 
this house and grounds were given up to him and enlarged for the 
site of King's College. On the iSth of June, 1446, the king 
granted Byngham a new charter, with permission tp build another 
house in Preacher's Ward. This house could not have been con- 
sidered very prosperous, for the revenues were never sufficient for the 
maintenance of more persons than a proctor or master and four 
scholars. On the 1st of May, 1505, the Lady Margaret obtained a 
license from her son, Henry VIII. , to change its name to Christ's Col- 
lege, and to endow it for a master, twelve fellows, and forty-seven 
scholars. 

The principal entrance is by a low tower gateway, built entirely of 
stone. The carved work is very rich and elaborate. It consists of 
the Lady Margaret's arms, supporters and badges, crowned roses and 
portcullises, and numerous groups of daisies and marguerites. Through 
this gateway we are conducted into the first court, which contains the 
chapel, master's lodge, the hall, which was rebuilt a few years ago, 
and, on the west side, the library, next to the entrance gateway. At 
the southeast corner is the entrance to the second or Tree Court. 
The range of buildings on the right was erected in 1822, while on the 
east there is a handsome edifice of stone, built in 1642, extending the 
length of 150 feet. 




■a 
ar 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 211 

The chapel which is handsome and well-proportioned, is fifty- 
seven feet long by twenty-seven feet broad. It was finished about 
the end of 151 1, but retains few of its original features, as very expen- 
sive alterations were carried out in 1701 and 1702. Over the altar is a 
painting of the "Descent from the Cross." 

There is a library which contains about 13,000 volumes, among 
which may be enumerated the earlier editions of Milton's " Paradise 
Lost," a copy of the second edition of Erasmus' Greek Testament, 
printed on vellum at Basle in 15 19. 

The master's lodge is small in comparison with those of other col- 
leges. It is situated between the hall and chapel and contains a fine 
portrait of Dr. Covell. 

While taking a stroll, the Captain, as was his custom, stopped one 
day to interview a native, and ask him certain questions, not forget- 
ting to let him know that he was an American. 

" I would like to go to your country," remarked the native. 

"Yes," replied the Captain, "and you would never forget it. We 
have the greatest country on earth." 

" But don't the insurrectionists cause you trouble ?" was the reply. 

"The insurrectionists ; what do you mean by that?" 

"Why, the Indians from Massachusetts." 

The Captain could not reply. He first gazed on the native, then 
at me, and as we left him and passed on, the Captain remarked: 

" I wonder if all the world is made up of such idiots ?" 

St. John's College is a fine old establishment, the front entrance 
built after the style of an ancient castle. It derives its name from the 
hospital dedicated to St. John the Evangelist. It is said to have been 
founded as early as 1135, by Henry Frost. In 1505, L,ady Margaret 
Beaufort, Countess of Richmond and Derby, and mother of King 
Henry VII., took measures for converting the aforesaid hospital into 
a college for secular scholars. Various causes having prevented this 
from being effected during her lifetime, she had it added as a codicil 
to her will, empowering the executors to carry out her design. The 
countess died on June 29, 1509, and on Jan. 20, 15 10, the hospital was 
dissolved. On the 9th of April following her executors established 
on the site thereof the present college. Entering the gateway, we 
come to the first court, and at the right corner is the new chapel 
belonging to this college. It is one of the finest churches in Cam- 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 213 

bridge, built of Ancaster stone and in the style of architecture which 
prevailed about 1280, commonly called "Early Decorated." The 
extreme length of the chapel is 193 feet, and the breadth 52 feet, 
while the ante-chapel is 89 feet. The height is 50 feet to the top of 
the parapet, and to the ridge of the roof, 80 feet. There are some 
very fine wood carvings as well as stained glass windows in this 
chapel, that must be seen to be appreciated. 

In 1326 Clare College was founded, under the style of Clare Hall. 
It is delightfully situated on the eastern bank of the Cam, and consists 
of one spacious court, which is entered by two highly ornamented 
porticos. The court is handsomely built throughout with stone and 
presents the most uniformly finished appearance of any college in the 
University. 

One of the most imposing buildings in Cambridge is the Fitz- Wil- 
liams Museum. The University is indebted to the munificence of one 
of its own members, Richard, Viscount Fitz-Williams, M. A., of 
Trinity Hall, who died Feb. 5, 1816, and bequeathed to the University 
his paintings, drawings, prints, books and works of art, together 
with |5oo,ooo in South Sea stock, the dividends of which were to be 
expended in the erection of a museum for the reception of his whole 
collection. The site was purchased of St. Peter's for the sum of about 
$50,000, and this magnificent building was erected. It was commenced 
in 1837 and completed about 1848. During the erection of the build- 
ing, the architect, George Basevi, fell from a scaffold on the Ely 
Cathedral and was killed. It is estimated the cost of the entire prop- 
erty, as it now stands, is about $500,000. The building contains a 
vast collection of pictures and other curiosities that cannot help inter- 
esting the visitor. 

The University Library dates back to about 1424. The front of 
the library is a fairly handsome building in the Italian style of archi- 
tecture. Here are shelved about 400,000 volumes of printed books 
and about 3000 manuscripts, of almost every age and language. 

The Observatory was erected in 1822-24, at an expense of about 
$90,000; $30,000 of this was contributed by subscription and the bal- 
ance was granted from the University. It is equipped with all that is 
modern in the way of telescopes, lenses, etc. 

I am just reminded here that during the Queen's great Diamond 
Jubilee procession, when all the royalty and the notables were passing, 



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OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 215 

the Captain called my attention to a carriage filled with ladies in ele- 
gant costumes, and then referred to his program. 

" There," said the Captain, " that beats anything I ever saw ! " 

I asked him what he referred to. 

"Why," he said, "that carriage contains the Ladies of the Bed 
Chamber. Did you ever see a lot of servants dressed in such style as 
they are ? " 

II About the year of our Lord, 727, lived in the city of Oxford a 
prince named Didan." So Antony Wood begins his charming story 
of St. Frideswyde, the daughter of Didan, and, continuing, he says : 
" Her father built here a church, as the lady, with doubtful saintship, 
utterly disliked the notion that she should, being a princess, be sub- 
ject to her inferiors. 

" After this Frideswyde took the veil in her own nunnery, but she 
was not allowed to rest in peace for, ' being accounted the flower of 
all these parts, ' she was sought in marriage of Algar, King of Leices- 
ter. This ' young and sprightly prince ' would not take a refusal, and 
even when his ambassadors were smitten with blindness for treacher- 
ously endeavoring to carry off the lady, he himself, ' breathing out 
fire and sword intended for Oxen.' Frideswyde took refuge in a shel- 
ter for swine among the woods at Bampton, but Algar still pursued 
her, till he too was smitten with blindness. She, however, did not 
return to Oxford for three years, and when she did return at last, the 
citizens 'lived,' if I might say, 'in a golden age,' no king or enemy 
durst approach Oxford. She died in 739 and was buried in her own 
church, of which a fragment may perhaps be seen." 

Of this story, mixed as it is with legend, much appears to be true, 
and around the shrine of St. Frideswyde grew up Oxford. It was a 
town of importance long before it was the home of the University. 
Apart from the story of St. Frideswyde, the earliest mention of 
Oxford is in 912, when the great " King Edward took Lundenbyrg and 
Oxnaford and all the lands adjacent thereto." 

This conjunction of Oxford with London shows its importance. 
The history of the town is an interesting one during the past six hun- 
dred years. It is an elegant city and by many said to far surpass that 
of Cambridge, although, personally, I was ( more impressed with my 
visit to Cambridge than at Oxford. There are located here twenty- 
one colleges. The style of architecture of the buildings is very simi- 



216 my friend, the; captain ; 

lar to those at Cambridge, while the University is managed in a similar 
manner, each college being practically separate, but all under the 
charge of one head. 

It was at this stage of our visit to Oxford that I asked the Captain 
how he was pleased with what he had seen. 

" I am not pleased at all," was his gruff reply. 

In astonishment I asked him what there was that had disappointed 
him. 

" Why," he answered, " before we came here you told me we were 
going to see the ' Great Seat of Learning, ' and we have been through 
all these buildings and I have not seen the seat yet. " 

Just then my attention was attracted by an organ grinder who was 
playing the "Bonnie Blue Flag," and as "music hath charms to 
soothe the savage breast," I controlled myself with the desired effect. 

New College is one of the finest in the city. This was founded on 
June 30, 1379, by William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester, and 
was built on a plot of ground in the northeast angle of the city, the 
fortified wall being its boundary and defense. It was opened with 
solemn religious ceremonial April 14, 1386, and after the lapse of five 
hundred years most of the buildings remain to this day as they were 
designed by the munificent founder. In connection with this college 
is a fine old cloister and a chapel that are very interesting. 

The Magdalen College was founded in 1458 by William Patten, and 
built in 1475-81. The entrance to the college is through a new por- 
ter's lodge, adjoining the new entrance gate, in what is called the Old 
Quadrangle of St. John Baptist. The chapel is in the southeast 
corner of the quadrangle, from which was formerly delivered annually 
a sermon on St. John the Baptist's Day to a congregation assembled 
in front of the same, the ground being strewn with rushes and grass 
and the building adorned with green boughs in commemoration of the 
preaching of the Baptist in the wilderness. This custom fell into dis- 
use about 1750, but it survived in the University sermon in the college 
chapel, annually, on the 24th of June, until last year, 1896, when the 
sermon was preached from the old pulpit. Each chapel is entered 
under the Muniment Tower by a door to the right. This was com- 
pleted in 1840, and is very interesting. The altar-piece, " Christ 
Bearing His Cross," is ascribed to Ribalta, a Spaniard. 

Corpus Christi College was founded in 15 16 by Richard Fox, 
Bishop of Winchester and Keeper of the Privy Seal of Henry VII. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 217 

and Henry VIII. Bishop Fox's original design was to erect a semi- 
nary for eight monks of St. Swithun's Priory, in Winchester, with a 
few secular scholars, but this plan was altered, it is said, at the sug- 
gestion of the Bishop of Exeter, who remonstrated thus : 

" What, my lord, shall we build houses and provide livelihoods for 
a company of buzzing monks, whose end and fall we, ourselves, may 
live to see ? No, no ; it is more meet, a great deal, that we should 
care to provide for the increase of learning, and for such as, by their 
learning, shall do good in the church and commonwealth. ' ' 

Entering by the tower gateway, with fine vaulted rooi, is the hall, 
which possesses good timber roof of the sixteenth century, and con- 
tains portraits of benefactors. On its summit are carved the arms of 
Henry VII. Several objects of antiquarian interest are treasured as 
relics of this college. Among them is the pastoral staff, in perfect 
preservation, though nearly four hundred years old. There is also an 
original portrait of Bishop Fox, executed by Fleming, early in the 
reign of Henry VIII. 

Pembroke College was endowed by Thomas Tesdale and Richard 
Wightwick, named after William, Earl of Pembroke, then the Chan- 
cellor of the University. Almost all the present buildings of Pem- 
broke College are quite modern, the chapel being a fair specimen of 
the heavy classic of the Georgian period, and was begun in 1728, the 
year of Dr. Johnson's entrance into the college, and was consecrated 
in 1732. Adjoining Pembroke College, with its east front facing 
Christ's Church, is the house originally founded by Cardinal Wolsey, 
though not completed until 1834. There is a very fine picture gallery 
in Oxford, which contains a fine series of portraits of university 
benefactors and other interesting pictures. 

In addition to this is the Bodleian library. The most ancient 
portion of this Library, over the Divinity School, was founded by 
Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, son of Henry IV., in 1455-80. When 
one enters he is struck by the stillness and solemnity that reigns 
around, helped by the dimly lighted windows with painted glass, 
ponderous shelves, the illuminated missals and the graduates and 
attendants conversing in low whispers as they move quietly around. 
Bodleian Library contains over half a million volumes and manu- 
scripts, and other rich literary treasures. The University Museum was 
built and opened in i860. It contains a fine collection of interesting 
relics. 




Entrance to Wadham College, Oxford, England. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 219 

Probably the most interesting building in Oxford is the Sheldonean 
Theatre, where the college commencements usually take place, where 
students compete in English and other courses for prizes offered by 
the Faculty. ' The Sheldonean Theatre is a circular building, the floor 
being used on state ocrasions for the scholars and the first gallery for 
the spectators. It is a most interesting building to visitors. 

Another view of Oxford can be obtained from the cupola on the 
roof. There are many other fine colleges and places of interest in 
Oxford, but space will not permit of any further description of the 
same. 

While we were preparing to leave Oxford, the Captain asked me 
where we were next bound for. 

"Windsor," I replied, "the most famous place in England." 

' ' You are right, ' ' said the Captain. ' ■ I suppose there is more soap 
manufactured there than in any other town in the world." 

' ' Soap, ' ' I answered ; ' ' what do you mean by that ? ' 

"Why, 'Old Brown Windsor Soap,'" returned the Captain. 
"Isn't that what the place is famous for ?' ' 

Who will disagree with me when I say there are times in a man's 
life when he is justified in doing desperate things ? 



MY FRIEND, THE CAfTAlN; 



CHAPTER XVI, 

Windsor Castle and Eton College. 

, / l I I HERE is no place in Great Britain I want to visit more 
» I is> than I do Windsor Castle, " remarked the Captain to me 
JL on our journey there. 

I supposed, of course, the Captain was interested in its 
historic attractions, and paid no further attention to his remark until 
our arrival at our destination, when, meeting one of the policemen on 
guard, he inqnired : 

( ' In which apartments does the Queen reside ? ' ' 

The policeman pointed out the apartments occupied by Her Majesty 
when in residence here. 

" Now," said the Captain, addressing me, "is the moment I have 
looked forward to for many years." 

"How so?" I asked. 

" Why, an introduction to the Queen," was the reply. 

"An introduction to the Queen ! " I answered. " What do you 
mean ? ' ' 

" Why," said the Captain, " the old lady lives here, and it is my 
intention to have an introduction to her before I depart." 

And then I went out and, contrary to my custom, drank a quart of 
" 'alf an' 'alf " to drown my sorrow. 

Probably there is no place outside of London of more interest to 
the tourist than Windsor Castle. Windsor is about 22 miles distant 
from London, and about 40 minutes by rail. A very pleasant journey 
can be made there by taking the boat on the Thames and going as far 
as Henley, stopping over night, and thence by boat to Windsor the 
next morning. Windsor is a spot favored by nature with the richest 
and most variegated scenery, diversified by hill and dale, beautiful 
parks, luxuriant forests and verdant meadows, and animated by the 
windings of a noble river, selected for the residence of the sovereigns 
of England, and enjoying for centuries the presence and support of 
an elegant court, together with its historical associations and events, 



or, Two Yankees in Europe. 221 

and the magnificent works of art by which the stately castle is 
adorned. I think that the traveler who has toured Europe and come 
back to Windsor will agree with me that this is the most elegant castle 
on the other side of the great ocean. 

The first authentic notice of Windsor, called by the Saxons, 
" Windleshore," from the winding course of the River Thames in the 
vicinity, appears from a donation which King Edward the Confessor 
made thereof to the monks of Westminster, wherein it is declared 
that the king, " for the hope of eternal reward and the remission of 
all sins, the sins of his father, mother and all of his ancestors, to the 
praise of the Almighty God, grants Windleshore with all its appurte- 
nances, as an endowment and perpetual inheritance to the monks that 
there serve God." The monks however, were not long permitted to 
retain the gift, for William the Conqueror, in the first year of his 
reign, 1066, being struck by the beauty of the neighborhood, the 
salubrity of the air, its convenience to the pleasures of the chase and 
its vicinity to woods and waters, selected it as a residence. He there- 
fore required the monks to resign it into his possession and accept in 
exchange certain lands and estates in the County of Essex. The king 
forthwith built a castle upon the hill, containing fifty acres. The 
castle in Henry III.'s time occupied the space now called lower ward. 
The hall of the palace is now used as the Deans' and Canons' Library. 
It is impossible to trace the form of the castle previous to Edward III. 
The magnificent improvements which the castle underwent in his 
reign were, no doubt, due to the affection which Edward bore to his 
native place. 

While we were strolling though the grounds of Windsor Castle, I 
was telling the Captain something of its early history, and asked him 

if it was not romantic. 

" I don't see anything romantic in it," was his reply. " To tell you 

the truth, all the time you have been talking I have been thinking 

you have a swelled head." 
"Why so?" I asked. 
"Oh! all this bosh about William the Conquerer, Edward the 

Confessor, and I don't know what," he replied, "you are getting too 

English." 

I assured the Captain I did not understand him, and that while I 

admired what we had seen and were seeing, yet I was as true a patriot 

to my own country as he was. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 223 

" Well," he returned, "if that is the case, give us a rest, and show 
me a picture of George the Third as he looked when he heard our 
Declaration of Independence." 

I told him Kodaks were not invented then, and he appeared 
satisfied. 

New Windsor is situated on the eastern border of the County of 
Berkshire and has always had the designation of New to distinguish it 
from Old Windsor, a pleasant village about two miles distant. The 
castle is located directly opposite the station, about three minutes' 
walk, and is built on the summit of a hill, about one hundred feet 
above the level of the Thames ; and here was the home of the rulers 
of Great Britain : William the Conqueror ; Henry I., who celebrated 
here in great state his marriage with his queen, Adelais of Lorraine ; 
King Henry II., who held a parliament in the castle in 1170, and dur- 
ing the contest between King John and the barons, which terminated 
in the granting of Magna Charta, the former took refuge in the castle 
which in the year subsequent to the signing of the Charter was inef- 
fectually besieged by the barons. During the reign of Henry III. the 
castle was alternately in possession of both the contending factions. 
Edward I. and Edward II. made Windsor their principal residence. 
It is likewise the birthplace of several of their children, the most 
celebrated of whom was Edward III., who rebuilt it with the excep- 
tion of three towers at the west end of the lower ward. The cele- 
brated William of VVykeham superintended the works at a weekly 
salary of seven shillings for himself and three shillings per week for 
his clerk. 

Edward IV. rebuilt upon an enlarged scale the chapel of St. 
George, in which his remains were subsequently deposited, as well as 
those of his unfortunate rival, Henry VI. Henry VII. made several 
additions to the chapel and upper ward. The ill-fated Charles I. 
resided in the castle at the commencement of his reign, and held occa- 
sional courts in these apartments, which, towards the close of his 
eventful career, he was obliged to inhabit as prisoner. Soon after the 
Restoration Charles II. adopted Windsor Castle as his favorite resi- 
dence and commenced a series of alterations. William III. and 
Queen Anne improved the parks, planting several avenues of elm 
and beech trees. George I. frequently resided at the castle, where 
every Thursday he dined in public, a fashionable custom at that period 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 225 

in continental courts. With the exception of trifling occasional 
repairs the ward remains as it was left by Charles II. until the reign 
of George III., who selected Windsor as his principal residence. In 
1284 Parliament granted $1,500,000 towards the improvement of the 
building the expenditure of which was placed under the superintend- 
ence of seven commissioners. Various other sums have since been 
voted, amounting in the aggregate to more than $4,500,000. 

King Henry VIII. Gateway on Castle Hill forms the entrance to 
the lower ward, which is divided by St. George's Chapel, on the north 
of which are the residences of the ecclesiastical officers of the estab- 
lishment, and on the south those of the military knights. The residence 
of the lay clerks is in what is styled the Horse Shoe Cloisters. The 
Curfew or Belfry Tower was erected by Henry III. about the twenty- 
fifth year of his reign. 

The Captain was much interested in the last resting place of Sir 
Henry Wooten, a provost of Eton College, who had the following 
curious epitaph inscribed about his grave : 

Here lies the author of this sentence 
"An itching for dispute is the scab of the church." 
Seek his name elsewhere. 

The Captain gazed at this for a few moments and turning to me 
remarked : 

" I do not know how long that fellow has been dead, but it seems 
to me any one that was the author of such a sentence as that is a bet- 
ter dead man than he would be a live man. Any rooster that wants 
to get into a dispute around these diggings should be, in my opinion, 
non est.'''' 

The State Apartments are a series of splendid rooms, commanding a 
beautiful prospect of the surrounding country, with large picture gal- 
leries, consisting of the Van Dyke room, with a choice collection of 
the paintings of this famous artist ; the Zuccarelli room, with some of 
the specimens of this artist. The state ante chamber, the ceiling of 
which represents ' ' The Banquet of the Gods, ' ' painted by Verrio, 
also contains several beautiful tapestries. From this we reach the 
grand staircase, which forms an approach worthy of so splendid an 
edifice. The grand vestibule is 47 feet long, 28 feet wide and 45 feet 
high. This contains suits of armor of the time of Elizabeth and 
Charles I., and here are also displayed Her Majesty's Jubilee presents 



226 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN; 

given her at the golden jubilee in 1887. From this vestibule we enter 
the Waterloo chamber. This is 45 feet high, 98 feet long and 47 feet 
wide, and is finished in the style of architecture which flourished in 
the time of Elizabeth and contains many portraits and paintings in 
connection with the battle of Waterloo. From here we pass to the 
throne room, a stately apartment, finished in rich blue, which at once 
reminds the visitor of the imposing ceremonials which from time to 
time take place here in the presence of the Sovereign of the Most 
Noble Order of the Garter. The panels of the room are enriched by 
paintings. The throne is carved from ivory and is of Indian work- 
manship. It was first shown at the great exhibition of 1851, and was 
presented to the Queen by Maharajah Travancore. The grand recep- 
tion room is next in order and is 90 feet long, 34 feet broad and 33 
feet high. It contains a magnificent Gothic window, filled with plate 
glass and forming almost the entire north end of the room, opening 
upon a beautiful and extensive prospect over the parks and adjacent 
country. The general style of the room is necessarily Gothic, to cor- 
respond with the exterior of the building, and is that of the time of 
Louis XIV. The workmanship is admirable, and some very elegant 
tapestries adorn the wall. 

St. George's Hall is next reached and is 200 feet long, 34 feet 
broad and 32 feet high. Entering this room one is struck with its 
princely dimensions, more than surprised by the extra magnificence. 
The ceiling is in Gothic style. There are thirteen windows on the 
south side of the room, and on the opposite are recesses, in which are 
placed full length portraits of the last eleven sovereigns of England. 

In the Music Gallery at the eastern end is a powerful organ, 
beneath which is the Chair of State, richly carved in steel, similar to 
the Coronation Chair at Westminster Abbey. The banners and arms 
of the original companionship of the Knights of the Most Noble 
Order of the Garter, as founded by King Edward III. in 1344, are 
hung in this apartment. The Guard Tower is next reached and is 78 
feet long, 31 feet high, and contains many interesting objects. Pass- 
ing on we come to the Queen's Presence Chamber. The ceiling is 
adorned with a fine painting, by Verrio, of Catherine of Braganza, 
Queen of Charles II. She is represented as seated under a canopy, 
spread by Time and supported by zephyrs, while Religion, Prudence 
and Fortitude and other virtues are in attendance on her. Fame is 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 



227 



proclaiming the happiness of the country and Justice is driving away 
Sedition, Envy and Discord. The walls are wainscoated with oak and 
decorated with four large and splendid specimens of Gobelin tapestry. 
We next enter the Queen's Audience Chamber. The ceiling of this 
apartment is also painted by Verrio, the subject being Queen Cather- 
ine of Braganza, Queen of Charles II., personified as Britannia. 

The private apartments may occasionally be seen by special per- 
mission. These apartments are elegantly furnished and enriched 
with the most elaborate decorations, containing every requisite and 
accommodation for the sovereign and her immediate attendants. 
They are occupied by the Queen when in residence here and contain 
some very fine paintings, one room especially being given up to 
Rubens' works. 

Between the two wards of the castle is situated the Keep, or 
Round Tower, which is built on the summit of a lofty artificial 
mount. This is open to visitors and a sight well worth viewing is to 
be had from the summit. 

A most interesting part of the castle is the Albert Memorial Chapel, 
and when we take into consideration the comparative smallness of its 
dimensions, it may be said to have one of the most splendid interiors 
in the world. Its dimensions are, length sixty-eight feet, breadth 
twenty-eight feet, and sixty feet high. Without viewing the edifice 
it is impossible to realize the rich beauty of its magnificent decora- 
tions. The interior has been fitted up with great magnificence by 
Queen Victoria, in memory of the Prince Consort. The entire 
vaulted roof is covered with mosaic figures, ornaments and inscrip- 
tions ; the stained glass windows are of surpassing richness and color 
and very superior workmanship, showing full length portraits in them, 
representing the ancestors of the Prince Consort. At the east of the 
building is placed a cenotaph, with the recumbent figure of the Prince 
in armor, and at his feet his favorite hound, Eos. The cap of the 
cenotaph is grand antique marble, which bears this inscription : "Al- 
bert, the Prince Consort, born Aug. 25, 1819, died Dec. 14, 1861 ; 
buried in the Royal Mausoleum at Frogmore. ' I have fought the 
good fight, I have finished my course. ' " 

At the west end is the sarcophagus of the late Duke of Albany. In 
the center of the chapel is the sarcophagus of the late Duke of Clar- 
ence and Avondale, son of the Prince of Wales, whose untimely death 



OR, TWO YANKKKS IN EUROPE!. 229 

in January, 1892, cast such a gloom over the nation. This building 
was erected by Henry VII. as a burial place for himself and successors. 
Upon his later preference of Westminister Abbey for that purpose, it 
remained neglected until Cardinal Wolsey obtained a grant of it from 
Henry VIII. With the same profusion of expense which marked all 
the public acts of his life, he began to prepare it as a receptacle for 
his remains, but at the confiscation of his property it reverted to the 
Crown. 

The following royal personages have been interred here : Prince 
Octavius and Prince Albert, children of George III. ; Duchess of 
Brunswick ; Princess Adelaide and Princess Elizabeth, children of 
the Duke of Clarence ; Prince Harolrt, infant son of the Prince and 
Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein ; Victoria Georgiana, infant 
daughter of Princess Frederica ; Princess Amelia ; Princess Charlotte ; 
Duke of Kent ; William IV. ; Princess Augusta ; Queen Adelaide ; 
George III. ; George V., King of Hanover. 

I called the attention of the Captain to the elegant monuments in 
Albert Memorial and St. George's Chapel. The Captain gazed on 
t-he-m for a few moments, and his answer was this : 

"Yes, they are great monuments, but I don't see one that comes 
up to Bunker Hill." 

What else could I do but pass to the outer door and shed a tear ? 

St. George's Chapel, one of the most interesting parts of Windsor 
Castle, was erected by order of Edward IV. about the year 1474, and 
since that time has been endowed largely by succeeding monarchs. 
The principal entrance is at the west end of the nave, which has been 
greatly improved by the erection of a grand flight of stone steps, with 
a handsome carved balustrade, also in stone. On entering the chapel 
the admiration of the spectator is immediately excited by the gran- 
deur of its architecture, which is in the perpendicular style, extremely 
light and elegant in proportion, and unrivaled in the richness of its 
carvings in stone and oak. The stone roof, which was executed in 
the reign of King Henry VII., is especially remarkable for its beauti- 
ful tracery. The armorial bearings of several sovereigns, including 
Edward the Confessor, Edward III., Henry VI., Edward IV. and 
Henry VII., and other illustrious knights companions are emblazoned 
on the ceiling. 

The great west window is a fine specimen of stained glass, contain- 
ing six tiers and compartments, each six feet in height and displaying 




g 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 23 1 

seventy -five figures representing Edward the Confessor, Edward IV. 
and Henry VII. The glass in this window was collected from various 
parts of the chapel in 1774. A number of interesting monuments are 
to be found in St. George's Chapel, among which may be mentioned 
that of the Duke of Kent, erected by the Queen to the memory of her 
illustrious father. 

Crossing over the nave to the west end of the north aisle we find 
the magnificent statues of Leopold I., late King of the Belgians, placed 
here by the Queen, near the noble monument to his first wife. Here 
is also buried Princess Charlotte, whose resting place is covered by a 
magnificent cenotaph, which was erected by national subscription. 
Opposite the north aisle, near the third window, is a monument to 
George V. , King of Hanover, consisting of a pillared framework of 
polished marble. The vault of Henry VIII. and Charles I. are nota- 
ble. They are located in the centre of the choir, which is near the 
eleventh stall of the sovereign's side, where are deposited the remains 
of Henry VIII. and his Queen, Lady Jane Seymour, as well as the 
remains of Charles I. and an infant daughter of Queen Anne. 

Near the altar is a large memorial window to Prince Albert, repre- 
senting the Resurrection. On the north side of the arch is the origi- 
nal tomb of Edward IV., which contains his name in raised brass 
letters, and is placed on a black marble slab, over which are his arms 
and crown, supported by cherubim. In the south aisle is a statue to the 
late Emperor Frederick of Germany, executed in pure white marble 
and representing the emperor in military costume, wearing his vari- 
ous orders, the hands clasped upon the handle of his sword. In the 
middle of the aisle is a large flat carved stone, bearing only the in- 
scription " Henry VI." The remains of this monarch were removed 
from Chertsey Abbey, where they were first interred, by command of 
Henry VII. In the center of the Braye Chapel has been erected a 
monument to the late Prince Imperial of France, by command of the 
Queen. This monument is sculptured in white marble, with a recum- 
bent figure, representing the Prince in the uniform which he wore in 
Africa during the Zulu war, in which he lost his life. There are 
many other interesting monuments and windows that will bear the 
closest inspection. 

The Captain noticed the British flag floating on Windsor Castle 
and other parts of this historic building. I observed that he gave 




1 

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byO 



EX] 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 233 

particular attention to this, and that something was coming sooner or 
later, but it came sooner than I thought. 

" See here," said the Captain, " not a single Star Spangled Banner 
have I seen during my tour today. I have got tired of this kind of 
business and want to go back to Boston. The sooner we get there the 
better I shall feel." 

And the Captain pulled out one of his shilling cigars, and I noticed 
that he lighted the wrong end, smoking away furiously as he mounted 
the carriage to be driven to Eton College. 

Leaving Windsor and ten minutes' walk crossing the Thames, 
brings one to that venerable and illustrious seminary known as Eton 
College, which for four centuries has planted the seeds of learning in 
the expanding mind of youth. This historical institution was 
founded by King Henry VI. in September, 1440. The buildings were 
commenced in the following year and when completed contained ac- 
commodations for " twenty-five poor grammar scholars, and twenty- 
five poor and infirm men to pray for the king. ' ' The present estab- 
lishment consists of a provost, vice-provost, fifteen fellows, a head 
master, a lower master, assistants, seventy scholars, seven lay clerks 
and ten choristers, beside the inferior officers of the collegers. The 
scholars on the foundation are called collegers, and are distinguished 
by wearing a black cloth gown. The others are termed oppidans, the 
expense of whose education and maintenance is defrayed by relatives, 
and who board in private houses within the precincts of the college. 
The school is yearly increasing and now numbers about 1000 students. 
Upon the day of election the senior scholars deliver public orations in 
the upper school, selected from the classics and best English authors. 

The buildings of the college form two large quadrangles and with 
the exception of the chapel are built of brick, having the roof battle- 
mented. The principal front faces the Thames and a neatly disposed 
garden extends to the bank of the river. The outer quadrangle is 
formed on the east side by the clock tower and apartments of some of 
the masters and on the north by the lower school, above which was 
formerly a long chamber or dormitory for the scholars on the founda- 
tion ; on the south side by the chapel, and on the west by the upper 
school, which, with the stone arcade beneath it, was built by Sir 
Chiistopher Wren, at the expense of Dr. Allestre, provost of the 
college, after the restoration. This room extends the entire width of 



234 MY friend, The captain ; 

the college and is adorned with marble busts of King George III 
William IV., Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, Duke of Wellington, 
Marquis of Wellesley, Earls of Chatham, Howe and Grey and many 
other notables. From this place have issued some of the greatest 
English statesmen, divines, philosophers and poets. In the center of 
the courtyard is a bronze statue of Henry VI. 

The Chapel is a very handsome gothic structure, supported on each 
side by massive buttresses. It is 175 feet in length, including the 
ante-chapel at the west end, and has undergone very many improve- 
ments since first erected. The ante-chapel is also quite interesting to 
the observer. 

The young gentlemen educated at Eton are greatly addicted to 
aquatic amusements, and on the fourth of June of each year, in com- 
memoration of the birthday of George III., they go in procession, 
habited in fancy dresses, in several long boats ornamented with flags 
and accompanied with music, to a meadow opposite Surly Hall, about 
three miles up the river, where a collation is provided. On their re- 
turn a brilliant display of fireworks is exhibited on an island a short 
distance below Windsor Bridge. The spectacle has been frequently 
graced with the presence of several members of the royal family, and 
annually attracts a considerable number of distinguished visitors. 

" What do you think of Eton College? " I asked ' of the Captain 
after we had finished our inspection of that institution. The Captain 
was quiet for a r ew moments evidently in sober thought. His an- 
swer came at last : 

" The college is all right, I suppose, but I will be hanged if I un- 
derstand all this royalty business. I haven't seen a single shoe fac- 
tory in the town," 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 235 



\B 



CHAPTER XVIL 

Stoke Poges and Hampton Court, 

HIIvB journeying from Windsor to Stoke Poges, the Captain 
was much interested in a description of this historical spot, 
as related to us by the conductor who had charge of the 
brake in which we were riding. After describing Stoke 
Poges and the Poet Gray, the Captain, who had been listening atten- 
tively, turned to the conductor and remarked : 

" Is old man Gray still living? Does he live at Stoke Poges ?" 
And to keep the matter quiet I bribed the conductor with two 
shillings. 

Leaving Eton, we pass through a beautiful country on our way to 
Stoke Poges, the Country Churchyard, and the scene of Gray's 
il Elegy." What school boy of the present day has not read these 
lines : 

"The curfew tolls the knell of parting- day, 
The lowing - herd winds slowly o'er the lea, 
The ploughman homeward plods his weary way, 
And leaves the world to darkness and to me. 

"Now fades the glimmering landscape on the sight, 
And all the air a solemn stillness holds, 
Save where the beetle wheels his droning flight. 
And drowsy tinklings lull the distant folds." 

Stoke Poges is one of the most interesting spots in England, and a 
short story of the life of Thomas Gray, the poet, may be appropriate 
at this point. 

Interesting to the students of English country life is the history of 
any English village, but some spots there are round which lingers 
the memory of some departed genius, whose spirit seems even after 
death to hover round the haunts he loved in life, calling men and 
women from all lands to visit the calm retreat made famous by this 
muse. Had Shakespeare not lived, Stratford -atte-Bowe would have 
been as well known as Stratford-upon-Avon ; and but for Gray, Stoke 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 237 

Poges would have been a name unknown to the world at large. Born 
at his father's house in Cornhill, on December 26, 17 16, Thomas Gray 
was the only one of a family of twelve who reached maturity. His 
father was a clever man of business, with extravagant habits and 
cruel to a degree both to his wife and son. His mother (Dorothy 
Antrobus, her maiden name) possessed the good sense and kindly 
heart her husband lacked and seems to have fully deserved the 
affection her son ever showed her. About 1727, Gray was sent to 
Eton at his mother's charges, and there begun his famous friendship 
with Horace Walpole and Richard West. There, too, he gained that 
love for the literature of Greece and Rome which makes its influence 
felt in almost every line of his poetry. At Eton, he chose the 
student's life — "Gray never was a boy," says Walpole — and that 
choice he never deserted. Pembroke Hall, Cambridge, was his home 
for a short time in 1734, but he soon left it for Peterhouse, Walpole 
going to King's a little later, and West to Christ's Church, Oxford. 
His vacations he spent at his uncle's house at Burnham, where he 
revelled in the beeches and doubtless found time to explore Stoke 
Poges. He left Cambridge in 1738, and six months afterwards 
started on his famous continental tour with Horace Walpole. They 
began their travels on terms of closest friendship, but two years and 
a half of close companionship gave birth to differences which parted 
them in 1741, to come together again in three years' time into a 
renewal of intimacy only broken by death. In November, 1741, 
Gray's father died, having before his death succeeded in squander- 
ing all his possessions. Mrs. Gray wound up her business in Cornhill 
and came to live with her sister, Mrs. Rogers, at the farmhouse in 
Stoke Poges, where Stoke Court now stands. Here, in June, 1742— 
the month and year that West ( ' ' Favonius ' ' ) died — Gray made his 
first of many visits to Stoke Poges. At that time the old manor 
house still stood in its original shape as built in 1555 by the Earl of 
Huntingdon, and was occupied by Viscount Cobham. Mrs. Rogers' 
house, where Gray stayed with his mother, was at West End, some 
three-quarters of a mile from the church which Gray afterwards made 
so famous. In those days it was a two-story farmhouse, of which 
the stone fireplace with " 1.6.4.8 " engraved on it, Gray's bedroom, 
and the window at which he sat, alone remain in their original 
Condition. 




"3d 



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PL. 



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■i^'I'.'. __ __ 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 239 

There is a fee attad led to about every place that one visits in Eng- 
land. As we passed into the yard at Stoke Poges and entered the 
lodge, we were requested to register and deposit sixpence each. 

"What is that for ? " asked the Captain. 

" Why," I replied, " it is your admission to the graveyard." 

"Well," said the Captain eyeing me, " I will be hanged if this 
isn't the cheapest entrance to a graveyard I ever heard of in my 
life ! " 

And if the matron in charge had not stopped him, the Captain 
would have filled up his pipe and smoked it on the spot. 

On a slope some little distance from the house there exists the 
arbor in which Gray " used to sit and dream," and the scene around 
is still as calm and remote from all the busy stir of life as when Gray 
described himself as "still at Stoke, hearing, seeing, doing abso- 
lutely nothing." It was in this year, however, that he laid the foun- 
dations of his fame. " Bxegi monumentem aere perennius " might 
have been said by Gray if he could have looked into the secrets of 
the future, for it was in November, 1742, that he began the " Elegy." 
In August he had written his ' c Ode to Spring ' ' — famous for ' ' a soli- 
tary fly " — an ode that sounded the note of revolt against the do- 
minion of the couplet, a sonnet to the memory of West, his ' ' Ode on 
a Distant Prospect of Eton College," and the " Ode on Adversity." 

In October or November, brooding, perhaps, over the late death 
of his friend West, and inspired by the quiet rusticity of his surround- 
ings, he began the poem, which more than all others has made his 
name famous. His uncle, Jonathan Rogers, died at Stoke Poges, on 
Oct. 31, 1742, and was buried in the neighboring parish of Burnham. 
There seems to be little doubt that it was very soon after that date 
that Gray began the composition of the " Elegy," though it was not 
actually finished till the year 1750. Some jealous souls would try to 
prove that " the country churchyard" is not that of Stoke Poges. 
It is enough to remember that Gray began the " Elegy " when resid- 
ing at Stoke Poges, that for many years he spent his vacations at 
Stoke Poges, that his aunt and his mother were both buried at Stoke 
Poges, and that if he knew any country churchyard well that was the 
one. 

It was in 1750, some months after his aunt's burial at Stoke, that 
he wrote to Walpole : " I have been here at Stoke a few days, having 



240 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN; 

put an end to a thing whose beginning you have seen long ago; I im- 
mediately send it to you." Its beginning was at Stoke, at Stoke were 
added the final touches, and the " weary ploughman's " descendants 
still plough the Stoke furrows, and in the tower the " moping owl " 
still rears its brood. There may be some doubt as to the real birth- 
place of Homer, but none to the country churchyard in which the 
" Elegy " was " wrote." From this year (the year 1742) begins the 
second period of Gray's life. Forced by circumstances and the want 
of money to give up his original idea of reading for the bar, he decided 
to live at Cambridge, spending all his spare time with his mother 
and aunt at Stoke. He returned to Peterhouse, and devoted all his 
hours to study. He deserted his muse and for five years read Greek 
and little else. In 1747, at Walpole's persuasion, he published his 
" Ode on a Distant Prospect of Eton College," but it met with scant 
appreciation. In 1747, also, he immortalized Walpole's cat in a poem 
that was ' ' rather too long for an epitaph but not too long to delight 
the lovers of happy trifles." In 1749 his aunt died and was buried at 
Stoke and shortly afterwards he finished the "Elegy." Walpole 
received a copy and showed it to his friends and among others to 
Lady Cobham (then living at the manor house), who had little idea 
till she was told by the Rev. Robert Purt, that " a wicked imp they 
called a poet" had been for some years living in her parish. Femi- 
nine curiosity was aroused and two messengers of Fate, in the shape 
of Lady Schaub and Miss Speed (Lady Cobham 's niece), invaded the 
shy poet's retreat, only to find him out. A note was left, the fish 
rose to the fly, and thus began Gray's intimacy with Lady Cobham, 
and literature was enriched by a story not too long. The ' ' Long 
Story," redolent of quiet humor, was written in August, 1750, but not 
published (except privately) during Gray's lifetime. The "Elegy" 
was published by Dodsley in 1 751, and rapidly went through fifteen 
editions, meeting with appreciation everywhere. Criticism of such 
a poem would be here out of place, but what was written of it by Dr. 
Johnson, who had a very poor opinion of Gray's merits as a pDet, is 
interesting : " It abounds with images which find a mirror in every 
mind, and with sentiments to which every bosom returns an echo. 
The four stanzas beginning, ' Yet ev'n these bones,' are to me origi- 
nal. I have never seen the notions in any other place. Yet he 
that reads them here persuades himself that he has always felt them, 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 24I 

Had Gray written often thus it had been vain to blame and useless to 
praise him." 

After we had strolled over some of the most interesting parts of 
the church at Stoke Poges and the grounds surrounding it, the Cap- 
tain in the meantime giving close attention to the description related 
by our attendant, he turned to me and whispered. 

" Who was this fellow Gray?" 

" Why," I replied, " he was a celebrated poet of his time, nearly 
two hundred years ago, and he was the author of 'Gray's Elegy,' 
famous as one of the greatest productions from the pen of man." 

" You say he was a poet," replied the Captain. 

" Certainly," I answered. " A famous poet." 

"Then," said the Captain, as he broke off a twig from near his 
tomb, " he is the chap that wrote ' Beautiful Snow,' isn't he ? " 

And the Captain glanced skyward and said it looked like rain, 
while I almost hoped it might be a deluge. 

The year 1753 saw the first appearance of a collection of Gray's 
poems in the shape of the " Six Poems, b}^ T. Gray," published by 
R. Bentley, and containing a portrait of the poet. The same year 
Mrs. Gray died, and was buried at Stoke, he, her son composing the 
epitaph, which may still be read: "In the same pious confidence, 
beside her friend and sister, here sleep the remains of Dorothy Gray, 
widow, the careful mother of many children, one of whom alone had 
the misfortune to survive her." His mother's death left Gray with 
a sufficient competence to enable him to live on at Cambridge in the 
simple fashion he loved best ; and, except for occasional visits to 
friends and tours to Scotland and the I,akes, and a three years' stay 
in London, the rest of his life was spent in that town. 

In 1754 he wrote the " Progress of Poesy," which quickly brought 
him to the front as a master of English lyrics, and the following 
year he began ' ' The Bard." A silly freak of some undergraduates at 
Peterhouse, who knew of Gray's constitutional terror of fire, led him 
to leave his rooms at that college and accept the welco me willingly 
offered him at Pembroke, where for the last fifteen years of his life 
he spent his time quietly and happily among his books and his 
flowers. Some concerts given at Cambridge by John Parry, the 
famous blind harper, set "all his learned body a dancing," and 
spurred him on to the completion of "The Bard." There was no 








. 



The Great Hall, Hampton Court, England. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 243 

living poet who approached him either in the estimation of the pub- 
lic or of the literary world ; and on Colley Cibber's death, in 1757, he 
was offered the post of poet laureate. Partly from a disinclination to 
be "at war with the little fry of his own profession," he thought fit 
to decline. In 1758 his aunt, Mrs. Rogers, died at Stoke, and Gray 
shut up West End Farm, only visiting the village rarely during the 
rest of his life. The next three years he spent in London, living in 
Southampton row, close to the British Museum, then in its infancy, 
but even in its earliest days a real treasure to a student such as Gray. 
It was at this time that some friends of his thought, and perhaps 
hoped that he would marry Lady Cobham's neice, Miss Speed. He 
confined himself, however, to writing her a sonnet, which has but 
little of the ring of a successful wooer, and gave himself up to his 
books and his friends. 

In 1762 the post of professor of modern history and modern 
languages at Cambridge fell vacant, and Gray's friends tried, but in 
vain, to secure his election. Other influences were more powerful, 
and it was not until 1768 that he was elected to the only post he ever 
seems to have coveted. During the next few years he took great in- 
terest in Icelandic literature, and the " Descent of Odin " and the 
" Fatal Sisters," show what time he must have bestowed upon his 
study of a new and difficult language. Few events ruffled the tenor 
of his last years. Travels in the South, travels in the north of Eng- 
land, an occasional visit to Mason at York, and a short tour in the 
Highlands occupied his vacations , while his time at Cambridge 
slipped happily along, cheered by his friendship with Nichols and 
Bonstetten, whose frankness, gaiety and love of literature did much 
to enliven Gray's last two years. 

For some time his health had been poor, and a visit to London in 
May, 1 77 1, did him little good. Troubled with gout, neuralgia and 
an incessant cough, he went back to Cambridge in July, after paying 
his last visit to Walpole. On July 24 he was taken seriously ill while 
at dinner in a hall at Pembroke, and after five days' illness he passed 
quietly away, comforted at the end by the presence of Mary Antrobus, 
his niece. On August 5 he was, according to his own desire, buried 
in the churchyard he loved, ' ' in the vault made by my late dear 
mother.'* And there he lies, with only a simple stone on the church 
wa'l opposite to mark the place. Erected by John Penn there is a 
monument, only interesting through the verses inscribed upon it ; 



244 my #ri£Nd, The; captain ; 

and the best memorial to Gray is the spirit which yearly brings hun- 
dreds of visitors to gaze upon his tomb. 

Here at Stoke Poges was the home of William Penn, the founder 
of Pennsylvania. His ancestors are buried in the country church- 
yard, and there have been erected here several tablets to their memory. 

No more delightful trip can be taken from London than a visit to 
Hampton Court. A pleasant way to reach this s pot is a boat ride on 
the Thames to Hampton and return on the top of a 'bus through Bushy 
woods to Richmond, where a change is made for a tram car, which 
will convey the tourist to Kew, thence, on top of a 'bus, into London, 
passing through a delightful country with most beautiful scenery. 

After our visit at Stoke Poges, the Captain and myself stood in a 
neighboring field surveying the beautiful rustic scenery that lay 
before us, when I asked him how he was impressed with his visit here. 

" Well," replied the Captain, " I suppose you like it. I did not 
come to England to visit old graveyards, and the next best thing to 
do is to find out if there is a good continuous show around If there 
is we will take that in. " 

Hampton Court was originally built by Cardinal Wolsey, who pre- 
sented it to his sovereign, Henry VIII. It was the birthplace of Ed- 
ward VI ; the masques and tournaments of Phillip, Mary and Eliza- 
beth occurred here ; also the celebration of the marriage of Cromwell's 
daughter to Lord Falconbury. The palace is a splendid structure of 
red brick with stone ornaments and is almost entirely devoted at the 
present time to an exhibition of pictures. There are portraits of 
many of the great beauties of Charles II. 's Court, besides other paint- 
ings of many of the old masters, among them a fine picture of Charles 
II. on horseback, by Van Dyck. The entrance to the palace is 
through the gates at the foot of Hampton Court Bridge. Historic 
associations, awakened by the many very opposite aspects of the 
place, will then arise in chronological review, and the numerous 
beauties will reach their climax, as one makes his exit from the 
gardens. 

Entering the gateway, one passes along to what is known as the 
first courtyard of Wolsey 's palace, which is indeed grand and worthy 
of description. Just before entering the courtyard and turning to the 
left, passing up a broad flight of stairs, the visitor enters what is 
known as the great hall, which formed no part of the original palace, 
but was not commenced until five years after the Cardinal had given 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 245 

up Hampton Court to Henry VIII. The main attraction of these 
halls are the elegant glass windows representing a variety of histor- 
ical incidents, among which is the pedigree of the six wives of Henry 
VIII ; also the fine tapestries with which the walls are hung, and 
which are some of the oldest in Europe. 

As noted above, Henry VIII. added much to Hampton Court after 
receiving it as a gift from Wolsey. Anne Boleyn went hence to be 
beheaded, Jane Seymour came hither to give birth to Edward VI., 
after which she died ; Philip and Mary passed a gloomy honeymoon 
here ; James I. held here in 1604 his conferences with the bishops and 
Puritan leaders. He talked much Latin and disputed with Dr. Rey- 
nolds, telling the petitioners that they wanted to strip Christ again, 
and bade them get away with their snivelling. When they besought 
leave to hold their prophesying meetings, he cried out violently : 
"Ay, is it that ye would be at ? If you aim at a Scotch Presbytery, let 
me tell you, it agrees as well with monarchy as God and the devil ; 
then shall Jack and Tom and Will and Dick meet, and censure my 
council; therefore, I reiterate my former speech — ' Le roi s'avisera? 
Stay, I pray you, for one seven years, before you demand, and then if 
you grow pursy and fat, I may perchance hearken to you, for that 
government will keep me in health, and find me work enough." 
The end of it was, that he cried out, " No bishop, no king ! " 

"Well Captain," I remarked, as we were enjoying the sights in 
and around the grand old palace, "one can hardly realize that this 
was once the stronghold of Cardinal Wolsey." 

" How do you know it was ? " he replied. 

" It's a matter of history," I added. 

" History be hanged ! " said the Captain as he faced me. " What 
had Wolsey to do with history? " 

" What had Wolsey to do with history ?" I returned, "why he was 
the man that at one time controlled the destiny of England." 

" Go tell that to the marines," shouted the Captain. "The only 
man who ever controlled the destiny of England, was George 
Washington." 

And the Captain left me and went to examine an old piece of 
tapestry and asked the attendant if it was ' ' sold by the yard or by 
the piece." 

Charles I. escaped from Hampton Court in 1647, only to be placed 
in stricter confinement in Carisbrooke Castle. Oliver Cromwell 




Entrance to Pond Garden, Hampton Court, England, 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 247 

made Hampton Court his residence and probably was the means of 
arresting its sale. Charles II. gave the palace to the Duke of Alber- 
marle, who afterwards redeemed it and occupied it himself. William 
and Mary were the founders of the modern parts. An interesting 
feature of the palace is the astronomical clock over the gateway in the 
second quadrangle. A few paces to the southeast corner, across the 
clock court, takes us into the Ionic colonnade of Sir Christopher 
Wren, beautiful in itself, but very much misplaced here. This colon- 
nade leads to the king's great staircase, which is the best approach to 
the state rooms. We might fancy ourselves in the palace of Louis XV. 
instead of that of a British sovereign. 

Leaving the great hall and passing over the courtyard, a tour of 
the apartments of the palace is commenced in what is known as 
Room No. 1 and continued to No. 32, there being about thirty-two 
apartments devoted to pictures and a few articles of historic interest. 
In the great watching chamber is to be found a fine lot of tapestries 
which were hung here in the time of Wolsey and that manifestly be- 
longed to a period anterior to those in the hall. 

In Room No. 6, known as the state bedroom of King William III. 
will be found the state bed of Queen Charlotte, brought from Wind- 
sor. The lilac satin draperies of the bed were embroidered by the 
Clergy Orphan School for Queen Charlotte, consort of George III. 
Verrio painted the ceiling, which represents Night and Day. At the 
head of the bed is a clock made bv Daniel Quare, which needs wind- 
ing only once a year. In Room No. 11, known as Queen Anne's bed- 
room, is seen the state bed of Queen Anne, with its hangings which 
were worked at Spitalfields. The ceiling was painted by Sir James 
Thornhill, and represents Aurora rising out of the sea in her golden 
chariot, drawn by four white horses and attended by Cupids. Enter- 
ing Room 12, a magnificent view of the gardens at Hampton Court is 
to be obtained from the windows. This should not be lost, and is 
only equaled by a similar view at the Palace of Versailles. Room 19 
is known as the Queen's private chapel. It is very small, yet answers 
the purpose for which it was intended. Queen Caroline was accus- 
tomed to have prayers read by her chaplain in a room adjoining her 
private chamber, while she was dressing. Her toilet was performed 
in the little room next to this, called the Queen's bath closet. In 
Room No. 21, known as the private dining room, is now placed the 
state bed of King William III., on the left with crimson damask. On 




Anne Boleyn's Gateway, Hampton Court, England. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 249 

the right, hung with crimson, is that of his queen, Mary. Some of 
the lace with which this was formerly covered still remains. There is 
a small bed in the center of this room that was used by King George 
II. when he resided at this palace. 

In making a tour of the rooms a very fine view of what is known 
as the Fountain Court can be obtained. Its dimensions are 110x117 
feet with a cloister on all four sides. 

Leaving the palace, a walk can be taken through the delightful 
gardens, which now resemble a magnificent park, with wide walks, 
trees, shrubbery and grass in profusion. 

In the rear of the palace is what is known as the vinery, entirely 
covered with the grapes, growing from the ceilings of the terraces. 
This is the private property of Queen Victoria, and the grapes are 
grown here for her table. The grape vines in this vinery are ninety 
years old, and yield 3000 bunches of grapes a year. It is estimated 
that there are from 150,000 to 250,000 people visit Hampton Court 
each year. 

While passing out of the gate of the courtyard at Hampton Court, 
a seedy -looking individual approached the Captain and looking him 
in the face remarked : 

" 'Ow are ye, guv'ner? It is a long time since I've seen ye." 

The Captain looked at him and remarked : 

' ' You must be mistaken ; I do not know as I ever met you before. " 

( < v'y," said the individual, "don't you remember me? Johnson, 
the cab driver ? It can't be that you have forgotten your old friend, 
Johnson ? ' ' 

The Captain straightened up and grasped the man's hand, remark- 
ing : "Johnson, is this you? I hadn't the slightest idea of meeting 
you here in England. What can I do for you?" 

" Well, guv'ner," was the reply, " if you can lend me a bob for a 
couple of days, I will thank you very much." 

And without further parley, the Captain passed a shilling over to 
the beggar, who, bowing, passed on. 

After his departure, I asked the Captain why it was he encouraged 
such people. Turning to me the Captain remarked : 

"Wouldn't you do a favor for a friend ? That is old Johnson, the 
cab driver ; many a time I have seen him around the Old Colony depot 
in Boston." 

And then I felt worse than I did when I crossed the English Channel. 



250 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN; 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

The Home of Shakespeare. 

($\ ~I PON our arrival at Stratford-on-Avon, the Captain was much 
/ interested in the quaint old town and, after looking around 

V^L for a while, he turned to me and remarked : 

" And so this is the home of Shakespeare ? " 

"Yes," I replied, " this is the home of the historic bard." 

" Let me see," said the Captain, and he paused for a moment. 

"What are you thinking of ? " I asked. 

"I was just thinking," said the Captain, "that the old fellow 
wrote some kind of a play, didn't he? " 

" Why, yes," I replied. " He did." 

" What I was thinking about," remarked the Captain, "was the 
name of the play. If I remember rightly it was ' Under the Gas- 
light.' " 

I never in my life felt more like drowning myself. 

Among the numerous visitors to Stratford-on-Avon, the birthplace 
and home of Shakespeare, Americans form the most important con- 
tingent. It seems singular, but it is nevertheless the fact that few 
Britons realize how much they owe to these pilgrims to the old home. 
Most of the historic objects of the greatest possible value have been 
spared from destruction because of their popularity with Americans, 
and many a Briton has been shamed into an interest in the priceless 
treasures of his own land by the intimate knowledge of such treas- 
ures, shown by cultivated Americans. 

Stratford is easily reached from London by direct rail through a 
charming country, a distance of about one hundred miles. There 
are no large hotels at Stratford, but numerous small and comfortable 
ones, the chief of which may be mentioned as that of the Red Horse, 
famous as the stopping place of our own Washington Irving, as well 
as other well-known Americans. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 25 1 

As the birthplace of Shakespeare it might be apropos to mention 
here a little of the early history of the family, which dates back to 
the fifteenth century. John Shakespeare, William's father, was born 
in 1530, and apprenticed when fourteen years old to a glover in Strat- 
ford-on-Avon. The family had been in very poor circumstances up to 
this time, and in his case he would be free of his apprenticeship in 155 1. 
The town records show that he resided in Henley street in that year, 
and in 1556 he was described as a glover. In the last year named he 
bought two houses, one on Henley street and another on Greenhill 
street, and also sued a neighbor to the value of about eight quarters 
of barley, from which we may gather he was an active business man. 
Meanwhile as his business prospered he had doubtless kept well in 
touch with Robert Arden, his father's landlord, and his own uncle by 
marriage, as he had succeeded in winning the affections of Mary, the 
youngest daughter of Robert Arden. 

John Shakespeare married in 1557, and on September 5, 1558, John 
Shakespeare's first child was baptized in the name of Joan at the 
parish church, and a second daughter, Margaret, was baptized Decem- 
ber 2, 1562, and buried on April 30, 1563. On April 26, 1564, was 
baptized Gulielmus Filius Johannes Shakespeare, otherwise known us 
William Shakespeare, and as it was usual to baptize a child three 
days after birth, the 23d of April has been recorded as the birthday of 
the great poet. 

At five years of age he went to the " petty school," and at seven 
to the grammar school, where he probably remained until he was 
fourteen. About this time the affairs of the family were under a 
cloud, business -was no longer prosperous and there was probably 
some ill feeling between John Shakespeare and some of his influential 
neighbors. It seems unlikely that William remained in school later 
than fourteen, for his father had need of his help. This, however, is 
contradicted by other authorities, one especially, that of a recent 
author, Edward James Castle, Q. C, who suggests from evidence in 
the plays themselves that Shakespeare began life as a boy actor, 
playing women's parts. Therefore, we can only speculate as to how 
the time was filled between the poet's schooldays and his eighteenth 
year, when he married Anne Hathaway, the daughter of a Shottery 
farmer, his bride being eight years older than the poet. It has been 
suggested that they lived unhappily, but authorities have not been 



— 
" 'I, 




OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 253 

able to find any evidence to that fact. The scene of the wedding is 
not exactly known, though the date is approximately fixed by a bond 
given at Worcester in November, 1582, in connection with the license. 
The short time elapsing between the date of this bond and the bap- 
tism of a daughter in May, 1582, has given rise to the suggestion that 
the legal marriage had been preceded by a hand-fasting, which was a 
popular and also perfectly legal, though incomplete, form in those 
days. 

About a week before our departure for home, the Captain was en- 
tertaining a party of Englishmen, in the smoking room, with stories 
of the new world across the sea. During an intermission, one of 
them turned to him and remarked : 

" Well, you may say what you please, but we have the satisfaction 
of knowing we are five hours ahead of you, and you can never catch 
up with us." 

In England the time is five hours earlier than in the United 
States, yet this did not disturb my friend, for he immediately, replied : 

' ' Well, you may be five hours ahead of us in time, but we are 
fifty years ahead of you in everything else." 

The English subject was forced to pay for the cigars. 

In 1583, while the Smithfield men were being prosecuted in a 
mild way, Edward, the head of the family to which the poet's mother 
belonged, was seized on a trumped-up charge of conspiracy against 
the Queen's life, and after a trial that was the talk of the country and 
also of foreign courts, was executed at Smithfield, the whole matter 
being arranged by Leicester, the Queen's favorite, who had reasons 
for hating Edward Arden, but Sir Thomas Lucy also took a part in 
the prosecution, and it seems quite likely these troubles might have 
led to Shakespeare's suddenly leaving home, perhaps after an out- 
burst against Sir Thomas Lucy. 

Whether the poet went to London, or whether he traveled in the 
provinces with the actors, whom he may have at first joined, has not 
been recorded. Of his life in London but little is known. Between 
1585 and 1592, there is only one record concerning him, which shows 
that in 1589 he joined with his father in bringing a bill of complaint 
for the recovery of his mother's land from a relative to whom it had 
been mortgaged. In 1597, so great had been Shakespeare's success 
in London he was able to return to Stratford and purchase the most 




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OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 255 

important private house in the town, known as New Place. For this 
house, with its gardens and orchard, he paid the small sum of sixty 
pounds, or about $300. 

In 1601 his father, John Shakespeare, was laid to rest in the old 
parish church and the year following the poet bought 107 acres of 
land. In 1605 he bought a portion of the local tithes and in 1607 his 
eldest daughter, Susanna, was married to Dr. John Hall, and in the 
year following the poet was able to attend the baptism of his first 
grandchild. For the next ten years matters went smoothly and in 
January 1616, the poet must have felt his end approaching, for he 
made his will, and on April 23, the anniversary of his birth, Shakes- 
peare passed away, and two days following, April 25, was buried in 
the Church of Holy Trinity. 

His widow, who will always be remembered as Anne Hathaway, 
rather than Mistress Shakespeare, lived until August, 1623, and on 
the 8th of that month was buried beside her husband. 

A tour of Stratford-on-Avon is most interesting, the first place to 
visit being that of Shakespeare's birthplace, well known from its 
innumerable pictorial representations. Here is shown the very room 
in which the poet was born, the house in which the Shakespeare 
family lived, and the adjoining workshops in which his father, John 
Shakespeare, carried on the glover's trade. This house belongs to 
the town corporation, and is in charge of custodians, who give the 
particulars of the numerous objects here preserved. A portion of the 
building is set apart for what is known as the Shakespeare Museum, 
containing many relics of the great poet. This property was bought 
in 1847 by the corporation of Stratford. The main room of the house 
is the first one entered by visitors. At one time it was used as a 
butcher's shop and the massive chimney with its ample space for 
smoking hams and bacons, is the most interesting part. The living 
room behind this one has a similar great fireplace, with room for 
seats in the ingle-nook. Behind it again is a tiny parlor and the 
passageway leads to the back door, opening into the garden. From 
this living room a stairway goes down to the cellar and another up to 
a tiny landing off which opens the birth room of Shakespeare, over 
the main room. This bedroom has a similar great chimney. Its 
windows still contain a few of the old panes of glass, scratched all 
over with the names of notabilities. Across the little passageway, 



256 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN; 

behind the birth room is what is known as the portrait room, from 
the fact that it contains the Stratford picture of Shakespeare. This 
picture has a curious history. It hung from an unknown date in a 
house belonging to the Clopton family and was bought from them by 
William Hunt in 1758. With the house certain pictures and fixtures 
were bought, but it was one hundred years later, in i860, that some 
one suggested that the particular picture in question had been painted 
at two periods and that the latter work was very inferior to the origi- 
nal. When the latter work had been removed the picture appeared 
as it is seen today, and from its similarity to portraits of the poet was 
claimed as an undoubted Shakespeare. The room was originally 
divided into two apartments. The portrait is treasured in a large safe 
and is open in the daytime to visitors. In the rear of the house is a 
beautiful garden and a part of the property. Entering the main room 
again, and turning to the left, we have what is known as the Museum, 
containing a great number of most interesting exhibits of Shake- 
speare and his time. In addition to this is what is known as the 
librarian's room, with a great collection of pictures, rare prints, 
books, etc. Here is also Shakespeare's chair, from the Bidford Fal- 
con, which is sat upon by almost all visitors, and here is also shown a 
letter written by Richard Quincy to Shakespeare, in 1598, asking a 
loan of thirty pounds. This is the only letter addressed to the great 
poet known to exist. 

" I say," said the Captain, as we were walking towards the Anne 
Hathaway Cottage, " where are you going across those fields ?" 

" To visit Anne Hathaway 's Cottage," I returned. 

"Anne Hathaway," remarked the Captain, " Anne Hathaway; 
who is she ? ' ' 

And then, of course, I informed him that she was Shakespeare's 
wife. 

"Shakespeare's wife," remarked the Captain. "What was the 
matter with her ? ' ' 

"Matter," I replied, " what do you mean by that? " 

" What did they get a divorce for ? " was the Captain's reply. 

"Divorce," I remarked. "They were not divorced. Why do 
you ask this question ? ' ' 

" Well," said the Captain, "if they were not divorced, why is she 
called Anne Hathaway ? Why not Anne Shakespeare ? ' ' 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 257 

And amid the summer's sun, I plucked a blade of grass and won- 
dered where we were at. 

The next most interesting place is the Anne Hathaway cottage 
which is located in Shottery, about a mile's walk across the fields and 
is a pleasant ramble at any time when the weather is fine. The 
Hathaway cottage has the strongest possible claim to the honor 
which has been accorded to it from time immemorial. Through the 
centuries the tradition had been verbally preserved that Shakespeare's 
wife was Anne Hathaway, and this was her home ; and the confirma- 
tion given by the recently discovered marriage bond, with the name 
Latinized as Annam Hathwey, was very satisfactory. 

The house is a good thatched farmhouse of the days of Queen Bess, 
divided late in the eighteenth century into two, and still later into 
three habitations. At the time I visited this place it was inhabited 
by a Mrs. Baker, a charming old lady, who has been for many years a 
custodian of this place. She was in her eighty-fifth year, and is de- 
scended from the Hathaway s. The interior is interesting. The 
living room contains small latticed windows and a great open fire- 
place and a wooden settee, which it is said that Shakespeare and his 
wife used for courting. Passing up a flight of stairs we come to Anne 
Hathaway's bedroom, with its great four-posted bed. Strange to 
say, only two days before my visit, Ellen Terry, who has taken such 
an active part in Shakespeare's play, made her first visit to this 
cottage. 

Along Henley street, at the top of the bridge, and at the corner of 
Wood street, is a curious little brick building, erected in 1810. 
Down the center of this street, until about i860, stood Middle Row, a 
number of houses and shops dividing the street into two miserable, 
narrow thoroughfares. On the right is High street, and at the cor- 
ner is Judith Shakespeare's house, the home of Shakespeare's 
younger daughter during the first thirty-six years of her married life. 
The house in question is owned by the corporation of Stratford. Im- 
mediately opposite the house and near the other side of High street, 
stood the market cross. Passing along High street there are curious 
glimpses up some of the narrow side alleys, and those who step within 
will find evidence that many of the houses now fronted with brick or 
stucco, are fine timbered buildings. The finest of them all, fortu- 
nately, retains its old carved fronts, and is well worth notice, known 




"8 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 259 

as the Harvard House. Here, until her marriage in 1605, lived 
Catherine Rogers, who became the wife of Robert Harvard, and the 
mother of John Harvard, who emigrated to America and founded 
Harvard University, Cambridge, Mass. 

At the other side of High street is the Shakespeare Hotel, full of 
mementos of the Garrick Celebration, of which it was the head- 
quarters. Adjoining and a part of this establishment is the house of 
the five gables, the most picturesque piece of half timbered domestic 
architecture in the town. After crossing the bridge we come to the 
Memorial theatre, library and picture gallery, and just beyond is the 
Holy Trinity Church which Shakespeare used to attend and where 
the remains of both himself and wife are laid. 

Holy Trinity Church, dating back to 1337, over 550 years ago, is 
an interesting place to visit. Edward III. gave this church a charter 
in 1413 and portions of the present church probably date from the 
time of the Conquest or thereabouts, when they were erected on the 
site of an earlier Saxon church. On entering this venerable house of 
worship we find the visitors' collection boxes, and a small pamphlet 
issued by the vicar as a guide to the church. 

In a glass top box under the west window of the north aisle is the 
old parish register, open at the entries of the baptism and burial of 
Shakespeare. Here, too, is the chained Bible, and under the west 
window of the south aisle is the old font in which the poet was bap- 
tized. The church sets in about 300 feet from the road and is reached 
by a wide pathway lined with shade trees. 

The Memorial theatre, library and picture gallery was opened to 
the public on April 23, 1879. The library contains some 7000 volumes, 
including the plays in a great number of editions and languages, 
books on Shakespeare and his works, plays of sixteenth century 
authors, books on contemporary history, costume, etc., and bio- 
graphies of Shakespearean actors. In the center of the town is to be 
seen a fine memorial fountain, erected by the late George W. Childs, 
of Philadelphia. 

There are many pleasant walks and drives from Stratford . Kenil- 
worth and Warwick castles can be reached by an hour's drive through 
a beautiful country. There is a large number of stores in Stratford- 
on-Avon, devoted exclusively to the sale of curiosities and ' ' Shakes- 
perean mementos. ' ' While I was visiting one of these shops I was 




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OR, tWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 261 

interested in an American lady who was bargaining for a genuine 
"Shakespearean plate," or, in other words, a plate that had been 
used by Shakespeare in his own family during his lifetime. The 
price of the plate was £1 or $5, and with it went a " certificate " from 
the shopkeeper to the effect that the article was genuine. The lady 
finally bought the plate, paying the price of the same. I afterward 
learned that about 200 of these plates are sold annually, and each one 
is guaranteed genuine, having been used by Shakespeare in his own 
family. 

The Red Horse Tavern, of which mention was made at the com- 
mencement of this chapter, is located on the main street and is a 
quaint old tavern, entered through an archway to a sort of courtyard, 
or what we might call a stable yard. The entrance to the office of the 
tavern is on the left, and, strange to say, the office is nothing more 
nor less than a bar room, presided over by a barmaid. The first 
room on the left is called the Washington Irving Room. It is small, 
only 10x12 feet. Here Washington Irving made his home while at 
Stratford. In this room a portion of his "Sketches" were written. 
In a glass case is to be seen the identical chair which he used and 
also the old poker with which he used to stir the grate fire. There is 
also an old grandfather's clock here, which in Irving's day was used 
as a timepiece for the hotel . The walls of this room are lined with 
pictures and photographs of actors, actresses and notabilities, most of 
whom have visited Stratford-on-Avon and made this hotel their 
home. 

It was toward the close of the afternoon of our first day at Strat- 
ford-on-Avon, when the Captain was looking a little weary, and turn- 
ing to me remarked : 

" How long do you expect to stay in this town ? " 

" A couple of days," I answered, " will be sufficient for us to see it 
thoroughly." 

"Two days," said the Captain, " two days ! What do you want 
to stay here that long for ? Old Shakespeare is dead and we might as 
well get out. " 

I drowned my sorrows with an English cigar, and if the reader 
ever smoked one he can realize my sufferings. 



262 MY FRIEND, TH£ CAPTAIN; 



CHAPTER XIX. 
Chester and Hawarden, 

TT FTER locating in our hotel at Chester, one of the first things 
<Tx>| the Captain wanted to do was to take a carriage drive. 
@/ X. " Come," he remarked to me, " let's go out and see what 
we can ' charter ' a hack for." 

And I immediately followed my companion, until we were ap- 
proached by a driver with a landau, when the following conversation 
between the Captain and the driver ensued : 

"Say," remarked the Captain, "how much are you going to 
charge us for a couple of hours' drive around town ?" 

The driver eyed the Captain for an instant, sized him up from head 
to foot, and then remarked : 

" Twenty-five shillings is the price, guv'ner — " 

" I would not think of paying such a rate." 

"As I was saying, guv'ner, twenty -five shillings is the price, but 
under the circumstances, I would take you for twenty shillings — " 

" No, sir, I will not pay twenty shillings." 

" But, as I was saying, while I would take twenty shillings, I sup- 
pose, under the circumstances, I would accept sixteen shillings — " 

" Now, look here," said the Captain, " we do not propose to be 
buncoed by any rooster on this side of the Atlantic." 

" While I would take sixteen shillings, still, if you object to the 
price, I suppose I might call it twelve shillings — " 

The Captain turned to me and quietly suggested that we move on, 
when the cab driver once more approached my friend. 

" If twelve shillings is too much, guv'ner, I will call it just an 
even ten shillings. ' ' 

And on this basis the carriage was hired. 

Upon our return to the hotel, the Captain remarked to me that he 
thought that if he had held out he might have hired it for six shill- 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 263 

ings, but he insisted that I kept interrupting him and that my 
presence with him on this occasion had actually cost him the differ- 
ence between six and ten shillings or, in other words, one dollar. 

The most ancient and antique city in all Great Britain is Chester, 
which is about three-quarters of an hour's ride from Liverpool. The 
city is beautifully situated on an elevated bank of the River Dee, and 
dates its origin back to the time when the Romans predominated in 
Great Britain. The city is completely surrounded by a wall, two 
miles in circuit, which at the present time is used for a promenade, 
and from which a fine view can be obtained. In times past many 
remains of Roman antiquities have been dug up in the vicinity of 
Chester. One of these, a crypt, is located under the establishment of 
Roberts & Co., Watergate street, wine merchants, and is used by 
them as a wine cellar. The date of the crypt is about 1 180. Another 
may be seen under the establishment of Syrton & Grooms. The 
town is really a novelty from the fact that its houses are angular look- 
ing, with sidewalks for foot passengers on their roofs. These are 
covered with galleries for the purpose of protecting the promenaders 
from the rain. At the cross streets one has to descend and ascend 
each time. The road or street is sunk several feet below the level. 
Everything points to the fact that Chester was a city of no small im- 
portance as far back as the Middle Ages. History shows that with 
the fall of the Roman Empire, the Roman occupation of Britain came 
to a close. After the departure of the legions the entire country once 
more fell into a state of semi-barbarism. 

Chester was a coveted spot, as it seems to have been in turn occu- 
pied by the Roman-Britons, the Saxons and the Danes, the latter 
retaining occupation only for a brief period, for Chester was restored 
to the Saxons by the valiant Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the 
Great, as far back as 971. Edgar occupied Chester with his vic- 
torious army, and his fleet filled the river in the vicinity of the city. 
In 1255 the Welsh, under their prince, Llewellyn, made an irruption 
into this neighborhood, carrying fire and sword to the very gates of 
the city. The year following, Prince Edward, who had recently been 
created Earl of Chester, paid a visit to the city, and received in the 
castle the homage of the nobles of Chester and part of Wales. The 
historical connections of the city are indeed interesting, dating back 
many years, and would make a volume. Considering the long oc- 
cupation of Chester by the Romans, it is natural to expect that many 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 265 

important remains of their public works should exist even to the 
present day. In the museum and other places are to be seen inter- 
esting relics of the past. 

While crossing from Liverpool to New York, there were quite a 
number of people who were seasick. It interested the Captain to 
some extent, for he had never seen anyone in this condition before. 
It happened, however, he got in conversation with a doctor and asked 
him what was the cause of seasickness. 

"Seasickness is a disease of the nerves," answered the doctor, 
"and is generally caused by the nervous system being out of order. " 
The Captain looked at the doctor for a moment and then replied : 
"Well, I'll be hanged if I ever knew a person's nerves were in ^ 
their stomach." 

The doctor struck me for a box of cigars. 

The most interesting place to visit in the city is the main business 
thoroughfare, where will be found the elevated sidewalks as described 
above and from which shops and stores of all description lead. 
Grosvenor park is an interesting place to visit and contains about 
twenty acres. A walk around the city walls of about two miles shows 
many places of historical interest and from this a very fine view of 
the city can be obtained. These walls are the most perfect of any- 
thing of their kind that I came across in my entire tour of England. 
Passing along above the Corn Exchange and to the left, so close that 
the sounds of its noble organ reach the ear, stands the grand old 
cathedral of St. Werburgh. Seen from this point on the walls, it is 
viewed to better advantage than from any other possible point in 
sight. The general plan and disposition of the cathedral are clearly 
to be made out. It is, like the generality of English cathedrals, a 
cruciform structure, comprising a nave, choir and transepts, with a 
massive tower rising at the crossing. Still further on we come to 
what w T as once known as Newton's Tower, at the present time called 
Phcenix. It is now a sort of small museum. On the door is in- 
scribed a tablet with this announcement, "King Charles stood on 
this tower September 24, 1645, and saw his army defeated on 
Rowton Moor." It is said that the date is a mistake, as the battle 
actually took place on September 27, instead of September 24. The 
Roodeye or Roodee, near the Water Tower, is an interesting place 
and a curious legend is told of the spot, which may be given for the 
benefit of such as have a taste for old world tales. 




Water Tower and Walls, Chester, England. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 267 

While making the walk of the wall of old Chester the Captain was 
much interested in the same, hut I could tell by his nervous condi- 
tion that he was either looking for or expecting something, and pres- 
ently turning to me, he said : 

" How far have we got to continue this walk ? " 

" It is two miles around the old city walls," I replied. 

" How far have we gone? " asked the Captain. 

" About one mile, " was my reply. 

" When are we going to see 'em ? " asked the Captain. 

" See whom ? " I replied. 

" Why, the Romans ? " was the answer. 

" What Romans ? " I asked. 

" Didn't you tell me before we came to Chester that the place be- 
longed to the Romans, and here I have come all this distance expect- 
ing to see them." 

Then, as I leaned over the wall, I was undecided whether to drop 
into the river Dee or go to the top of the Water Tower and end my 
existence from that point. 

The story goes that ' Once upon a time the Christians of Hawarden, 
a few miles down the river, were in a sad strait for lack of rain. 
Now, it so happened that in the church of that place there stood a 
cross and image of the Virgin Mary, called Holy Rood. To her shrine 
then repaired the faithful and fearful of all classes to pray for rain. 
Among the rest L,ady Trawst, the wife of the governor of Hawarden, 
prayed so heartily and so long, that the image, grown desperate we 
suppose, fell down upon the lady and killed her. Mad with rage at 
this ill answer to their prayers, a jury of the inhabitants was sum- 
moned, and the Holy Rood summarily convicted of wilful murder and 
other heinons sins. Fearful, however, of the consequence if they 
executed the offender, the jury determined to lay her upon the beach 
at low water, whence the next tide carried her away to the spot 
where she was found, under the walls of Chester. The citizens held 
a post-mortem examination, and seeing that she was Holy Rood, 
decided on burying her where she was found, and erected over her a 
simple stone cross, which, tradition says, we fear this time not very 
truthfully, once bore an inscription to the following effect : 

"The Jews their God did crucify ; 
The Hardeners theirs did drown, 
Because their wants she'd not supply, 
And she lies under this cold stone." 



268 MY FRIKND, THE) CAPTAIN ; 

While returning home on the steamer Majestic the Captain was 
much interested in knowing the number of people that this great 
ocean liner was capable of carrying, and made inquiries of one of the 
officers, and was informed she had facilities for carrying 1800 souls, 
all told. 

"In case of accident," remarked the Captain, "how are you 
prepared ? ' ' 

" We have boats that will take off 1400 people," was the reply. 

The Captain thought for a moment, and then added : 

" I suppose the other 400 would be obliged to swim." 

And if I had not been taught better in my early days I would have 
gone down and joined one of the poker parties. 

Crossing over the bridge again a fine view is obtained of the Dee 
Mills, a massive pile of gloomy buildings, resting on the southwest 
end of the old bridge. The Dee Mills existed on this very spot 
shortly after the Norman Conquest, and were for centuries a source 
of immense revenue to their owners, the Earls. The reader, will, no 
doubt, remember the poem, " The Miller of the Dee, " which had its 
origin here. Probably the finest salmon that are caught in England 
are from Chester, and the River Dee furnishes the source of supply. 
This is quite a fishing center and it has become quite an industry in 
this section. Passing along eastward, the visitor comes to what is 
known as the Light Suspension Bridge, erected in 1852. The steps 
from here which descend from the walls to the river side at this point 
are known as the " Recorder Steps." 

It is most interesting to pass along what is known as the " Rows," 
or elevated sidewalks, of which it is almost impossible to trace the 
origin. Some writers attribute it to the Britons, while others to the 
time of the Romans. There are many interesting places to visit in 
Chester, including the Old Cathedral and numerous public buildings, 
which it would be impossible to describe here. 

After we got ready to leave our hotel at Chester, the Captain was 
handed his bill and he repaired to the smoking room to look it over. 
During this time I was busily engaged in reading a newspaper, and 
the Captain seemed to be a little nervous. I noticed that he got up 
and left the room several times, going into the office and returning 
again. Presently he beckoned for me to come over and sit near him, 
which I did. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 269 

"Look here!" said the Captain. "My bill is all right except 
one item and I have been trying my best to make it out." 

I asked him what it was and the item in question read as follows : 
" Boots, 2s," which translated into United States English, meant 
the services of a bootblack, fifty cents. 

" What do you suppose they mean by charging me with boots, two 
shillings?" asked the Captain. 

" Well," was my reply, " I guess it is correct. Why do you find 
fault with it ? ' 

"Look here," said the Captain. "Did you ever know me to 
buy a pair of fifty cent boots ? If I wanted to buy a pair of shoes 
over here, I would be willing to pay a decent price for them." 

When I had explained to the Captain that his bill was correct and 
what it was for, he informed me that the next time he bought a 
package of cigarettes he would ask me to smoke one. 

The richest man in all England is said to be the Duke of West- 
minster, and there is no question but what he owns one of the finest 
estates in Great Britain, known as Eaton Hall and located in Chester. 
This palatial mansion with its grounds is open to the public ; a 
nominal admission fee of is, or twent3^-five cents, is charged for ad- 
mission to the residence, and this amount is donated by His Grace to 
charitable purposes in Chester. Eaton Hall is reached by either boat 
or carriage drive. The park is entered through Overleigh Lodge 
gates, and from there to the residence is a drive of about three miles 
through a magnificent park. 

The family name of the Duke of Westminster is Grosvenor, which 
is one of the old families of this section. Eaton Hall, as it stands 
today, is the fourth mansion of the family. The present buildings 
were commenced in 1867 by His Grace, and were completed some 
years afterwards. Arriving at Eaton Hall the grand courtyard would 
probably first occupy the direct attention of the visitor. It is en- 
closed by fine iron work of the seventeenth century workmanship, 
while the entrance known as the Golden Gates, which belong to the 
hall, as it stood in the end of the seventeenth century, is flanked by 
modern iron work, made to accord in style. From the Golden Gates 
extend a noble avenue of trees, called the Belgrave drive, about two 
miles long. In the courtyard is to be seen the colossal equestrian 
statue of Hugh Lupus, the nephew and valued friend of William the 
Conqueror and one of the ancestors of the Duke of Westminster. 




T3 

G 

G 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 1'Jl 

The next place of interest is the stables, which are well worth a 
visit. They are fitted up in the most perfect manner, regardless of 
expense. In the center of the stable yard is a fine work by the late 
vSir J. E. Boehm, R. A., representing a rearing horse, held by a 
groom. On the other side of the yard is the chapel and lofty clock 
tower ; the latter is 175 feet high. The interior of Eaton Hall is 
magnificent throughout. 

The first place we enter in the family mansion is known as Central 
Hall, which is used on state occasions as a sort of reception room ; 
from this we enter the grand salon, the ante drawing room, the 
drawing room, and the library, all of which are decorated with mag- 
nificent paintings, statues, etc., by the most famous artists. From 
here we pass to the grand corridor, where are two magnificent large 
oil paintings, one, "The Fathers of the Church," and the other, 
" The Adoration of the Magi," both by Rubens ; the latter faces the 
grand staircase. Passing from here we go to the ante dining room, 
which from an architectural standpoint is not especially worthy of 
notice ; nevertheless, it is almost equal to a grand hall. From here 
we enter the main dining room, decorated with six fine paintings, 
which adorn the walls, all by masters. The gardens and conserva- 
tories are planned on a large scale and mainly extend between the 
eastern facade of the hall and the River Dee. The main feature, 
directly opposite the hall, is a noble terrace, 400 feet in length, and 
from this the gardens descend to the river. 

"This is an old town, isn t it? " I remarked to the Captain. 

" Right you are," was his reply ; " this is an old town." 

" And an interesting one, too," I added. 

" Interesting !" replied the Captain ; " I don't know what you call 
interesting. This town is five hundred years behind the times. I 
haven't seen a single electric car, not a quick lunch counter, or a 
horseless carriage since I have been in the place. Talk about your 
interesting towns — " 

And with that the Captain thought he spied a bag of peanuts in a 
store near by and made a dive for it, but unfortunately, and much to 
his disappointment, it turned out to be something else. 

1 ' Are you going to Ha warden ? ' ' remarked a gentleman whom I 
met at the hotel where I was staying in Chester. 

" Hawarden," I answered, " where is Ha warden ? " 




Rt. Hon. William E Gladstone. 

His latest and best picture. At the right is his little granddaughter, who 
happened to put in an appearance when this was taken, and unknown to Mr. 
Gladstone. 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 273 

" Only about six miles' drive from the very spot where you stand," 
was his reply. 

I little thought I was within so short a distance of Wales, and the 
home of that grand old man, William E. Gladstone. Procuring a 
carriage we drove through a beautiful section of Chester and about a 
mile and a half from our starting point we came to the dividing line 
between England and Wales. The drive from Chester to Hawarden 
Castle was made in about one hour. 

This is an old town and dates back to the early centuries. In 
1337 Hawarden passed into the hands of the Earl of Salisbury and 
reverting to the Crown, was granted to the Duke of Clarence, second 
son of Henry IV. In 1454 it was made over to Sir Thomas Stanley, 
afterward Lord Stanley, whose son became the first Earl of Derby. 
Hawarden remained in the Stanley family for over 200 years. In 1653 
it was purchased by Sargeant, afterwards Chief Justice, Glynn. At the 
Restoration a determined effort was made to recover Hawarden for 
the Stanley family and a debate took place on the qnestion in the 
House of Lords. The purchase, however, was confirmed and Hawarden 
remained in the Glynn family until the death of the last baronet, Sir 
Stephen Glynn, in 1874. The lordship of the manor then passed by 
a family arrangement to Mr. Gladstone's eldest son. Twice Hawarden 
has been visited by English sovereigns. In 1495 King Henry VII. 
stayed there ostensibly for stag hunting, and Charles, when a fugitive, 
took refuge herein 1645. This, of course, was in the old or ancient 
castle, of which mention will be made later on. 

Arriving at the outer gate or lodge of the castle grounds, a drive 
of about ten miles through a lovely grove and what might be termed 
a natural park, brings us to what is known as the Modern Castle, and 
as much as the Old Castle may interest the architectural visitor, the 
general visitor will find his interest centered in the modern one, the 
residence of Mr. Gladstone. The Modern Castle was originally a red 
brick, square house of no considerable size. This was built toward 
the middle of the eighteenth century by Sir John Glynn, who left 
Oxfordshire, where he had hitherto resided, and lived at Hawarden. 
Subsequently at different dates additions were made. The brick walls 
were faced with the stone of the district ; additional wings were 
added, four turrets built, and the entire building was castellated. The 
whole work was carried out with a certain unity of design which has 
rendered the architecture pleasing, though unusual. 




o 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 275 

The interior, as usually happens in the case of country houses 
which have been added to at different periods, is roomy and comfort- 
able. In the last twenty-three years three additions have been made. 
Mr. Gladstone's home is not in any sense a " show house " and it has 
been found absolutely necessary to adhere to a rule against the admis- 
sion of strangers on account of the great number of applications 
received. The rooms are spacious and numerous, but they are not on 
the scale of the great country houses, nor are the pictures and objects 
of art sufficient to form an attraction in themselves. 

Probably the most interesting apartment in the mansion may be 
said to be Mr. Gladstone's study, or as that gentleman appropriately 
terms it, "The Temple of Peace." Herewith is presented an illus- 
tration, which is an excellent one, of the exterior of Ha warden Castle ; 
also a photograph of Mr. Gladstone himself, being the latest and 
most accurate one taken. In this photograph, at the right, will be 
noticed his little granddaughter, who happened to appear on the scene 
just as the photograph was being taken. There is also shown here- 
with an illustration of the " Keep," which is a part of the ruins of 
the old castle at Ha warden, and adjoins that of the new or modern 
castle. 

The ancient castle of Hawarden is placed on a somewhat lofty 
eminence, on the south side of which is a deep ravine, which formed 
a great protection to the cast'e on that side. The exact date of the 
erection of this castle is undecided, but it seems almost certain it was 
founded during the reign of Henry III. and probably added to and 
completed in the reign of Edward I. 

At the back of the old castle is a narrow entrance called Leopold's 
door, commemorating a visit in 1819 of the late King of the Belgians. 

The leading points of the history of the castle may be very briefly 
touched upon. In the year 1264 it was the scene of the memorable 
conference between Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, and Llyw- 
elyn, Prince of North Wales, in which the compact of mutual support 
and co-operation was entered into. The result of this was that the 
King, who was the Earl's prisoner, was forced to renounce his rights 
and claims and Llywelyn became possessor of the castle. On the col- 
lapse of Simon de Montfort's rebellion, the castle was claimed by the 
Crown and Llywelyn called upon to surrender it. There was, how- 
ever, a fight over the old castle for many years, but the matter was 



OR, TWO YANKEES IN EUROPE. 277 

finally settled. The Keep, or donjon, of the castle, as shown in the 
illustration above mentioned, is circular, sixty-one feet in diameter. 
At its base the walls are about fifteen feet thick, whilst it is tapered to 
about thirteen feet at the rampart line. It is an interesting old place 
to visit, and is open on certain days of the week to the public on pay- 
ment of a small fee. 

Hawarden Park comprises about two hundred and fifty acres and 
is a fine old estate. Driving in at the right one can make a tour of 
the place and come out in front of what is known as the old Hawarden 
village and the parish church, where the Gladstone family attend 
service. Just inside the park is the walk used by Mr. and Mrs. Glad- 
stone, about one mile and a quarter in length, over which they pass 
from their residence to their church every morning. This churcb is 
supposed to have been built in 1275, and has much solidity and dignity 
of structure. The rector is Rev. S. E. Gladstone, who is a son of Mr. 
Gladstone. He has a staff of six curates, and has the responsibility 
of five additional churches and school chapels. Until recently Mr. 
Gladstone read the lessons every morning in the church, but within 
the past year has given up this work. 

After finishing our tour of Hawarden, and upon returning home, 
the Captain turned to me and remarked that he was well satisfied 
with his morning's trip. 

" Yes,'' I remarked, "it is very interesting to visit the home of 
Mr. Gladstone."' 

"Yes," said the Captain, " you are right. I suppose he has done 
more for mankind and womankind than any other living person." 

This remark rather puzzled me for an instant, and fearing that the 
Captain might be laboring under a misapprehension, I asked him what 
he referred to. 

"Why," was his reply, " to Gladstone's invention." 

" To his invention," I replied, '■ what did Gladstone invent ?" 

" Why he is the man that got up the Gladstone bag," said the 
Captain, as he actually sneered at me. 

And just at this moment the horses reared up, and the driver could 
hardly control them, but I sat calmly in the carriage, not caring much 
whether we ever reached our destination. 

From Hawarden the drive was made back to Chester, and late in 
the afternoon we took the train for Liverpool, where we were to 
embark for home. 



278 MY FRIEND, THE CAPTAIN J 

It was a beautiful September morning, the gray dawn was just visi- 
ble, yet the lights from the distant shores were distinguished, as the 
good ship Majestic pulled off Sandy Hook. The Captain and myself 
were early on deck. We had been roaming foreign shores for four 
months, and we longed for a glimpse of our own native land. 

" Look yonder, Captain,'' I remarked. "You see those lights in 
the distance?" 

' ' Yes, ' ' was the reply. 

" That is New York," I added, and just then the Captain glanced 
upward and saw the emblem of the greatest nation on earth floating 
in the autumn breezes. 

" Hats off," shouted the Captain, as he uncovered his head. 

"What for?" I asked. 

" To the Star Spangled Banner," was his reply. And two Yankees 
stood on the deck of the steamer that early morn with their heads 
uncovered. 



«.HV 5di . 



